sskunky

I invert the bottle and run the tip along the edge of the armour and then push the trim on. Keep the side without glue towards you and be careful to keep you hands and fingers off the glued edge when pushing the trim on......

I'm not sure on the biceps. I couldn't really tell on the pic I posted.

Yeah, shins and arms are the same both sides. The original suit that was cast was missing parts. I hope to upgrade these issues when I'm in the new workshop. I will be cast parts off my Disney suit which has the lefts and rights. So it won't be totally unaltered but it will look better. I hope to offer replacement parts at cost for existing troopers that have already bought armour from me. This house renovation and workshop can't happen quick enough. Good news today. Had an offer on my 2 bed flat so can relax on financing my house!

As there is not return you can trim either end too.

Looking good

Yes you can which makes yours accurate.

Debatable on the shins. But this pic clearly shows thighs and arms glued that way.

Yes, remove the return edges and glue with the inner half overlapping the outer detail half. I know it looks wrong but it's actually how the original Rotj arms and thighs were glued. A recent discovery.

My guess is Disney via Anovos is just trying to put small vendors like the ones selling here out of business. Hence the cheap price with most parts included. As LFL never put an artistic licence on the OT props they have to try and do it another way. That's why I think the costume designs have mostly been changed for the TFA. New deaigna equals new copyrights.

Ok, I'm gonna post this pic. It's not the best quality in the world but it does show a colour discrepency between the trim and armour. I think you can clearly see the trim is lighter than the armour.

I personally think this is unacceptable. My armour and helmets have passed the highest standards. I agree that the trim is a little whiter than it should be but I cannot get it creamy white anywhere. I have looked and the only way is to have thousands of meters made bespoke and that's just not viable for a small hobbiest like me. To just ignore you because they don't quite know what they are talking about is rude. Please give them my details. I am happy to talk to them.

Lol, damn iPhone!

Good pics Locitus!

I believe they were riveted in.

If you sand the ends of the grey tube to taper them a bit like sharpening a pencil. Then you can slip the caps on and push them in. They will be tight. I will be making a new mould for these as I have found a metal pipe 1-2mm larger. This will make the caps slip on easier. But not until I'm in my new workshop. I have plenty of mould improvements to make on a lot of the moulds. Just don't have the time or space at the mo to do it.

@Stuart, Get yourself a flat round tipped paint brush from an art store. It will make life easier getting the roundness to the ends on the frown and vocoder.

That's alright then!

My main point is that Anovos came from the very community they are so quick and ready to slag off.

Luckily for us our courts don't rewrite the law to suit whoever has the most money.

A bit rich considering half of Anovos came from the replica prop forum. Now they are paying shed loads on licences they have to slag us passionate small guys off. We are just as passionate about materials, products and customer service as you ANOVOS! We don't have to pay large licensing fees as they are out of copyright. Not our fault LFL forgot to put an artistic licence on them! Grow up springs to mind.

The mic tips are only hard because you added the soaked material to the inside. I have never done this as the originals never did. If you hadn't then you can screw the nut and washer on the inside tight against the mic tip kinda squashing them together. You can't do that as you have a solid area now.

You should be able to see a feint line to trim to. Anything curling up on the back n cap gets trimmed off and you can trim fairly close to the three lines running from the chin detail.

Acetone will soften superglue but not sure you want to be rubbing that on the abs. I use a liquid solvent for all the abs parts. The only place I use superglue is to hold the internal strapping in place before coating it with stelmax. BTW don't use superglue on the bubble lenses it will cause the acrylic to fog up.

I think it's a bit wrong to take people's money on the pemise that they will be getting ABS only to be told it's now PVC? I thought RS stopped PVC due to problems with it?