Twnbrother

After looking at the pictures I still did not like the profile of the binding post. So I flipped the binding post over and removed most of the screw head (very easy with wire cutters and dermel sanding). I covered the threads with Zap a Gap... put some Zap a Gap where the aluminum connected and screwed it together. After the Zap a Gap dried I sanded the screw smooth and covered with Green Stuff. This should give it a nice smooth profile.

I think I have finished up with the scope rail. I connected the two pieces of aluminum with a 3/16" binding post screw. I wanted to keep as low of a profile as possible. I stamped the same serial number on the rail, but I put it on the side of the counter.. kinda a hidden item. This is the scope on in a temp position... does the spacing look right?

satin black still looks shiny. I got advice to use Flat Black as it will give a better appearance.

I stopped by Home Depot at lunch today and picked up a piece of aluminum 3/4" x 36" x 1/8" for the scope rail.... only 5 dollars. I measured, bent, and cut to make the scope rail.... and no breakage. Now I just gotta make the counter bracket.

When I did mine I cut the tubes based on the length of the DD tubes... It looks okay, but I understand wanting the precise distance.

Since I had to replace this piece I went ahead and practiced a little detailing.... I put the same serial number on the rail as I did on the bolt... just playing around, but I kinda like it.

This is my meager attempt to repair the aluminum rail with Zap a Gap and Green Stuff.... I painted it to see if it would look okay. With the repair the bend looks too straight.... I was wanting the rounded 90 degree bend. Guess there is a trip to Home Depot for me this week.....

Well I just learned a valuable lesson when making the scope rail from aluminum... DO NOT score the bend line with your dremel cutting bit. I scored about halfway through the aluminum to make it easy to bend.. The piece broke in half. I gotta find some more aluminum or order a scope rail. Off well, life goes on. Hopefully no one else will make this mistake after reading this post.

Scott mine doesn't hold the magazine... It is held in by magnets.

Chris... thanks for posting this. I based my modification on the M4's magazine catch... I'm glad to know it was the same on the Sterling. It was a fun coming up with the idea to make this work.

The same part on the M4 does this so I assumed the sterling magazine catch did the same thing. You can see it in this pic from the Sterling Manual.

I don't know it that is an issue or not. There are many experts on here who probably know it the button height is an issue

Tonight I finished up what I was wanting to do with the magazine button. I made the magazine release move when you pressed the button. I took a piece of left over scope rail aluminum and trimmed to size. I then stamped three zero's on the bottom... next time I would have used the letter O instead. I used my small wood carving tools create the recess for the magazine release. Next I replaced the red plastic rod inside the the push button mechanism with a finishing nail. I attached the finishing nail through a countersunk hole in the magazine release using Zap a Gap. I also took the washer off the red push rod and put it on the nail with Zap a Gap to keep the spring distance. Just attach the push button to complete the mechanism. The button now moves the magazine release.

Chris I really like the sound it makes. It looks like you button is too high. I think you should only see the base of the button from the side.

You will need to go a little deeper to make sure the little lip at the front of the magazine is snug against the magazine well. looks like about an 1/8" more in front and 3/8" in the rear. The magazine catch also needs to be seat further.

I was also reading Brandon's (Khazid) pipe build http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30209-phoenix-props-anh-e-11-pipe-build/ and wanted to use his concept for holographic scope reticle. I started by using the same Trooperbay sticker as he did and made a some changes to individualize it. I have ordered some thin plexiglass to begin the process. I hope my turns out pretty decent.... Brandon set the bar pretty high.

I was inspired by reading Brian's (Bulldog44) build...http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28778-bulldog44-dd-e-11build/ it was amazing. He got me thinking about the selector switch where he used ear bud connectors. I had these connectors laying around and decided to give it a try. I cut the ends of each one maintaining the original length of the connection and then removed the plastic coverings. I inserted the female end into the pistol grip (my previous hole was the right size ) and secured with Zap a Gap. I then drilled the hole for the male end. I ensured I went as far as I could into the selector switch to ensure I still had the full length of the original connection. It is a tight fit with a very smooth rotating action.

I really like your trigger idea... your build is looking great.

Chris thanks for the suggestion about painting the green stuff black... I will take care of that. Thanks again

My next one will be Derrek's upgraded Phoenix Props 2.0. His is amazing

Here are some finished shots of the Power Cylinder. Nothing remaining from the DD kit. Without Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/ this would not have been possible. I did some really light weathering. Please tell me your opinions... should I do more? Lastly my hidden METALMITE.. should I replace with new sticker and less overspray?

Brian I just viewed your build.... absolutely amazing. I wish I had read your build before starting mine as I would have incorporated your brilliant ideas. Your bolt is the best I have every seen. Well done.

I am slowly but surely finishing up the Power Cylinders. Tonight I painted installed the rear caps and center tubes. I also trimmed down the wings as they looked a little long to me. I started out by covering my metalmite sticker with Tamayia Tape. I lightly sprayed the paint from above. Afterward I removed the tape and painted the bottom. I routed the wires and glued the tubes in place. Afterwards I lightly dusted the word METALMITE from a distance with the spray paint. Next I went ahead and glued in the red wire. Once the glue dries I will give it the final coat of black and then weather appropriately.

Your build is so impressive. I wish I had of seen this before I started my build as you showed us so many wonderful modifications. Outstanding build.

Thanks for the compliment Brian... I really appreciate it. I am trying to do my best with this piece and incorporate as much as possible from all the other great builds on FISD.