Twnbrother

Next I went to work painting my scope and counter box. On the counter I covered the brass screws, counter button, and counter window with Tamiya tape before painting. The rear of the counter was done in Testors gloss metallic gold spray enamel (brass) and the front dark steel.

I worked a little on the push button for the magazine release. When I was at the hobby shop they had push button switches and I thought this might work better than my spring and post idea. First I removed the lock washer and nut. I then took the push button trimmed off the bottom to make is cylindrical. Make sure you do not cut the plunger off or the spring will not work. I also trimmed off the red button on top leaving enough to still attach the spring. I also trimmed down the barrel below the red button to make the button depress further. When drilling out your hole on the magazine well make sure you check the depth for the base of the push button and still have a smaller hole going a little deeper for the plunger to depress into. I works like a charm.

Thanks for the info. I had satin black but I'll finish with flat black. Thanks again.

I have a finishing paint question. What is the final black color? is it Satin Black or Flat Black? I am thinking Satin Black. Thanks.

I really like the use of the 3D printer for the front site post. Very clean lines. Make sure you check out the depth of your dovetail. You do not want to go to deep like I did.... a little green stuff and I built mine up. I also like the use of the triangle file... I do not own one, but that would have really helped.

Tino it is time consuming but not expensive at all to make this. I am making two at the same time... one for my brother. The part cost is below: Bracket: 0.47 3/8" PVC 1.98 steel blanks 0.43 (each) could be found cheaper at a craft store, but I got mine online. steel rod: 4.95 small PVC 1.35 wire .98 The steel rod was expensive but they were sold out of the brass and aluminum 7/16" rods. The others were around three bucks. You can make several caps from one rod. It comes in 12" sections so with clean cuts you could get up to 48 caps. More likely around 40....

To make the fuses that were on the back of the Power Cylinder I used the small PVC pipe and wire I showed in an earlier post. I cut the PVC to the size of each side of the rear power cylinders. I then cut the wire the length of the rear mounting plate. I stuck the PVC on each end of the wire and then trimmed the plastic casing in the middle. I made sure to leave a little bit of wire sticking out each end i stuck on a piece of red cloth from the wiring provided from T-Jay to finish the effect. I think I need to build a space between these to segments. Now there are no original DD Power Cylinder parts to this build.

Next printed out the word METALMITE on a clear label from Avery and stuck on one of the cylinders... I saw this detail on one from Playfulwolfcub posted on MESP.

its been a couple real busy days with work so I only got a little more done on the Power Cylinder. After looking at Playfulwoldcub's perfect Power Cylinders I did not like the DD end caps. So here is my solution. My PVC pipe has 3/8" outer diameter. I bought a steel pipe from the hobby shop that has a 3/8" inner diameter and 7/16" outer diameter. I cut this pipe to make the end caps. I then took a 3/8" steel crafting blank for the end piece (3/8" washers shown in photo... this was proof of concept). Drill a hole in the center for the screw provided from Tino and a little green stuff to hide the seam..... I like it better.

I went to my Home Depot to get it and they would have to order it.... and I would have to get a case and it takes 6 weeks to get in. Spray paint has to come by boat to Hawaii. I can't use 6 cans.. Thanks for the info.

When I went to the hobby shop I just looked for spray paint. They have a large selection of Tamiya and Model Masters. Next time I am there I will look at the bottled paint. However I suck at painting with a brush

Thanks Derrek. I will go with your choice. I looked for over a month for Brass and no luck. Both of these colors are metallic gold and both look completely different. Thanks again.

I need an opinion on which color looks closer to brass? It has been impossible for me to find Brass spray paint for plastic. Below are several pictures of two colors taken in different lighting. Which looks more like Brass? The one closer to the edge or the one in the middle? Thanks

Tino your post is where I got to thinking about the metal bracket. I'm hoping I can do some justice to the Power Cylinders

The DD cylinders were driving me crazy and I could not get them round. So I went to the Hobby shop and got a PVC tube. I cut it to size and added the magnets like I did before. This really helps with placement and bad drilling through metal. The only thing left from the DD Power Cylinder is the caps at the end of the cylinders. Tino I moved the center capacitors back... is this about right? Do I need to shorten the cylinder in the rear? I think its a couple millimeters long While at the hobby shop I came across a tube and wire that fit inside. I am gonna use this for the pieces in the back.

This is an update of the Power Cylinder saga... wow this is even more difficult than I thought. I took the aluminum rods provided by T-Jay and used his tutorial on how to round the edges and adding the wire. I then continued to trim the metal bracket to a closer resemblance to the B model. I am thinking of replacing the cylinders with 10mm aluminum tubing (hard to round the DD cylinders) and keeping the caps from the DD kit. The end of the cylinders under the green stuff is a magnet (same one used for the magazine) super glued on. The back of the cylinder is the DD cap and a cut down center barrel connector of a pen. Underneath this is also a magnet. The magnets allow precise placement and removal for painting. When I am satisfied with the final placement I will super glue them in place. The front and back screws with nuts are from T-Jays kit. I will cut them down when I am finalizing the build. Please let me know if this looks right before I glue in place. I will continue to work on the wings and the wires on the back.

today I started on my most dreaded of projects... the Power Cylinders. The only redeeming thought is if I screw this up I can get a great one from Playfulwolfcub http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24821-screen-accurate-resin-budget-power-cylinders-for-e11s/. I trimmed the cylinders off of the DD cast by slicing through the "metal" separator. This left each cylinder in two pieces. I found a 90 degree piece of metal from Home Depot to make the base. I trimmed it according to the dimension in Playfulwolfcub's research. I am going for the B version. Drilled two holes with the thought of pinning the two halves of the cylinders together. I took the aluminum rods provided by T-Jay and outline where I needed to drill. The pieces fit..... More to come as I gather my thoughts and ideas.

After initial paint coat of rear sight post I did not like the way the hex screw looked... So I went to Home Depot and bought one.

I dont know the true dimensions for the front site... I just eyeballed it...

This is my third attempt at the serial number.... some of the numbers did not come out very well. After the paint dries I will be back for the 4th attempt.

The wire came from Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/ I remember reading somewhere that the diameter was 1.8mm (converted that is 0.07").... don't quote me on diameter of the wire as I'm pulling from memory....

Below is a shot of the spring I made. The wire came from Tino's kit I measured the distance the spring would show and divided by the total number of coils I wanted to show. I marked the distance on a GO PRO selfie stick and wrapped it around. I made it a little long so I could have a little sticking out the back. This will give some tension when the end cap is put on.

I did a little work on the scope and painted it brass. I cleaned out the ridge detail where the two parts of the scope connect. On my cast about 1/3 was filled in with resin. I also created a small lip ridge on the other end to simulate where the cap is attached.

I am now on round three for the bolt serial numbers.... I learned earlier the letter combination from one of Tino's threads is that the numbers have a height of 2mm and a total amount of 15 characters (including two letters). The setup is as follows: X00 0 000 000 X 0000 (the X stands for a letter and the 0 means a digit). This time I measured out two millimeters for each letter space for a total of 40mm. I then wrote down my serial number combination so I could follow it easily. Next I filled in the green stuff just flush with the hole. I lightly pressed in each digit. After reviewing the photo I realized all my 2's were upside down ohh well a little more work. I filled in the 2's with green stuff and restamped. I will sand smooth after it has set for a day.

I did a little green stuff work on all the rivets and the rear sight post hex screws. This idea came from a post I was reading and I can't remember who's thread.... sorry You drill out the rivet just a little bit and put in green stuff. You then take the same drill bit, flip it over and press. For the hex screw on the rear site you drill it out and then take a hex driver bit to create the look. i just gotta do a little sanding and it should look good.