Squimspickle

Thanks for all of the responses. Here is a pic of what I'm dealing with. I don't have a measurement of the length of the entire belt. I love the look of the belt though. It looks very authentic. So I'm probably getting about 1.5 inches of velcro coverage. I'm 5'10" 162 lbs so I don't have a big waist. ------- I was thinking of sewing these on and they would be hidden behind the top flap. They wouldn't be noticeable at all and then I can keep the belt, but have the added security if/when the velcro separates. Does this seem like a good idea? I would hate to have to dismantle the belt. I used Zap A Gap on the 3 button covers on the front of the belt that cover my rivets (i know, I know ). I also like Vern's suggestion of adding an extender piece. ---------

I know me too I'll post a pic when I get it sorted out. I also started researching Hook & Eye closures as another possibility.

Thanks for the suggestions Vern! I'll try your first fix and then if that doesn't seem to solve it, I'll do the sew in snaps route. It's actually an ATA suit. I'm not even bending or squatting much. If I just push my gut out a little bit I hear the velcro separating. The Holiday weight gain probably isn't helping either.

I have an RS Prop Masters canvas belt. It just fits, maybe an inch too short. I have snaps in the front ab armor holding it up and it is velcroed in the back under the thermal detonator. When ever I'm suited up, start moving around, bend a little and squat I slowly hear the Velcro separating. A couple times it came undone, and my TD hit the floor. I don't want to replace my belt because I have the plastic ammo front riveted to it. Has anybody added anything like sew in snaps or hooks to secure the belt in the back? I would love to hear suggestions!

Thanks, Joseph!

Thank you, Dave! Very happy to be here!

Aaron D. Brudvig 19513 EIB Letter

Thank you Andrew and Tony for taking the time on reviewing mine and all applicants armor. I greatly appreciate your commitment to this process and maintaining these higher level of standards. I am very excited and happy with this news you have given me! I have only been part of the legion for a very short time and really value the feedback you have given me. I will definitely be making the adjustments suggested for Centerion and pain avoidance sake !

Thank you, Davide

Not a problem. I added those images you requested.

Thank you, Andrew. Too kind

Thank you, Brad! Much appreciated.

Name: Aaron Brudvig TK ID: 19513 Forum Name: Squimspickle 501st Unit: Ohio Garrison Armor Maker: ATA Works Helmet Maker: ATA Works Blaster Type: E-11 DoopyDoo's Height: 5'10" Weight: 162 lbs. Boots Maker: TK Boots Canvas Belt: RS Prop Masters Hand Plates Type: RS Prop Masters Neck Seal Type: Trooperbay Holster Maker: Trooperbay

Looks like it's coming together! The build definitely demands a lot of attention. Keep it up

I bought a TK Mannequin and set it up this week. It's a few inches taller then me so my armor fits a little different on it. All in all I'm impressed with how it looks. It's the first time I've been able to view my armor fully assembled without me being inside of it! I'm not sure how long my wife will let me keep it up though, lol. You get this weird feeling like it's going to move because it feels like somebody is in it! I could sit and stare at this all day!

Yes, some of the powder can wipe off. I noticed if I over did it on my first coat of sealant that some of the powder also disappears or fades. So if/when that happened I would go back in and do it in layers again. I have added the rust to the sealant when it is still a little tacky and it has adhered itself nicely. It also looks more realistic because the rust wouldn't have a satin finish. The rust powder settles into cracks and grooves the areas that you will never end up touching or wiping away. On other parts of my blaster I did some drybrusing with Testors silver. These were larger areas where I didn't want to work with the powders. I used truck bed liner on the main body of the blaster so I could get a little texture. I was pleased with the results of that.

I know right!? I hit the "post" button a few times because everything was lagging and then it posted every hit! lol!

Thanks Tino, I referenced your build a lot. I spray paint with a satin finish black. Then I use a combination of Tamiya's Weathering Master Kit C and Sharpie Metallic Silver pen. After that I spray (lightly) the whole thing with a Clear Satin Urethane finish. Sometimes after I seal it with the Urethane, you will lose a little detail from the Weathering kit. So after it dries a will go back in and do another round of weathering and then another light Urethane spray.

Thanks for the feedback Ian. I'll see if I can do anything about that. Much appreciated.

Finally added some Power Cylinders! I ordered some 3D printed ones from here: Shapeways 3D printed Power Cylinders You can't beat the $15 price. I know they aren't completely accurate because the 3 transistors don't go through the back of the bracket. However, measurement and detail wise they are very accurate. I added some parachute cord, little plastic pieces and wire to the back of the cylinder bracket like T-Jay did here: T-Jay's more accurate Power Cylinders How To I painted, weathered it and added a little rust looking effect. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Ok so now I can apply for EIB!

Thank you! Yeah I did not expect it to happen all within hours of my submission! I would have been sleepless as well.

I would like to request 501st access for TK 19513 Ohio Garrison. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20387