justjoseph63

Really nice job on this, Michael! Are you going for Stunt or Hero? The reason I ask is that this will determine what color the inside if the Hovi tips should be. For Stunt, the interior should be white and is a requirement for Level 2, and the Hero interiors should be black (as it is now) for Level 3. The screens can also be black for Hero. Painting the rims white is a requirement for Level 2 for both costumes. This should take you all of 2 minutes! Stunt Hero Keep those photos rolling in!

Many (if not most) of the items we offer can only be seen once you get your Basic 501st approval (official TK #) and request Legion access here on the FISD. Runs of various merch vary throughout the year, but as Glen said we are limited to the number of items we can offer. Trading cards are indeed a thing and we can help with that when the time comes. These are nice to have to hand out to kids and such during troops. This is the current standard template Or you can design your own

Added to the list (#18) and THANKS!

Thank you for your submission, Christine! One of us will be with ya' as soon as possible.

Yep. Since you have sufficient overlap of the bridge over the back plate tabs I would trim off the large one, which is screen accurate. The elastic strips should hold them down nicely, but it may help to add a bit more of a curve to the bridge to help it lay flatter against the tabs.

Hindsight is 20/20 they say, and I am living proof. Before I knew about the FISD I bought my first kit on ebay. Terrible. Not even passable for Basic, so I ordered one from one of the "vetted" vendors here. I guess you know by now that Mr. Ainsworth did not in fact do any of the designing of the screen used armor, despite what his site says or implies. To bring one up to Basic 501st standards will take some work, but we can help! My advice is to start a build thread and post up all the images and ask all the questions you can. This is especially important to do before cutting or gluing anything. Speaking of which, I'm not sure about others but I cannot view the images using the links you provided above. My suggestion is to post them up using imgur. I have a thread here which will help. Lastly, know that we do not judge, no matter who makes the kit. You are on the right path by asking questions, and we are here to assist you however we can to give you the best looking TK armor possible!

It probably couldn't hurt to drop them a line, but in the last 8 years I have never heard of any complaints about them. Since they do their runs in "waves" they probably get inundated with orders in a small time frame, so bear that in mind. In my dealings with them I have had nothing but top notch service, so hang in there! Give it a few days, and if you still haven't heard anything back just PM me (I have a few contacts there).

A few quick notes if I may, Greg.. I know you are building this yourself but note that the model armor shown on their site has quite a few issues.. one being overlap construction (blue arrows) on the rear of the thighs, which was not used until ROTJ. Overlap is fine for Basic and EI, but for Centurion they will require the butt-join method with cover strips as seen in ANH/ESB. Did they send you enough ABS to make these? You have probably figured this out by now, but when building, be sure not to emulate the model they show, which has a myriad of issues. Note the shape of the thigh ammo pack rear, the screws in the sniper knee plate and the fact that the calf closures are facing the wrong direction. Reference images Also, if I'm not much mistaken the blue buttons on the ab-button plates are separate on SDS armor. Again, this is something that is not screen accurate but is OK for Basic and Level 2. For Level 3 the buttons must be the same size and integrated into the plate(s). Reference image I would highly suggest starting a build thread here so that we can help guide you and answer any questions you may have. Posting photos (and lots of em') in it will help a great deal. Posting pics is especially important when you have an issue, so it's better to ask ahead of time (before cutting/gluing). Looking forward to seeing your progress, and keep those questions rolling in!!

Welcome to the forums, Brad.. glad to have you aboard. Sincerely sorry to hear about your loss... I have been in your scenario and it really takes the wind out you to say the least. Just know that we are here to help you make your dream of becoming a shiny white spaceman come true, so in addition to collecting action figures, you can now become one! The first time you don your armor and step out on your first troop will be a memory you will never forget. I have trooped with many members of the Carolina Garrison, so you are in great company there. SO many new friends to make! You are more than welcome (and encouraged) to ask all the questions you want to.

Hi Mirko, and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt EI! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First, my apologies for the delay, sir, and before we begin, please don't be alarmed at the number of issues noted. Many are fairly easy fixes, and we have complete confidence that you can address them for Centurion. Some may take time, but we are here to help every step of the way! All that being said, let's get going! Note that the items in this section are only "highly suggested" items, not requirements. Starting at the top, we noticed that your brow is sitting pretty low. As a general rule Stunt TKs' trim sits higher, as opposed to Hero, so we are suggesting that you raise it a bit. Reference images Hero As seen in the reference images, the brow trim should be cut back a little to where it is even with the rear of the trap above it. Easy fix! Reference images Your shoulder bells are positioned kind of high in proximity to the shoulder bridges. Ideally the tops should sit evenly with them (or even a little below). Adjusting the strapping to change this will also help cover more of the biceps. Reference image A simple strapping issue here- your left bicep should come up at least 2 cm to be level with the right one. Adjusting this will also ensure that it doesn't pop out under the shoulder bell (as seen in the reference pic). When suiting up, be sure that both shoulder bridges are outside of the back tabs. We also noticed that the alignment is somewhat off, and it may be worth checking the strapping to see if it is straight. Reference images Looks like your under-suit has bunched up at the sleeves and is peeking out of the wrist opening! Putting your gloves on before the forearms (over the under-suit) will take care of that. Your left drop box should sit below the ABS belt, so your strap may need some adjusting. The TD is sitting slightly crooked, and I think this is due to the right side not being pushed all the way down. Not a big deal, but when someone attaches it for you make sure they put it on snugly. Though not a deal breaker, we are HIGHLY suggesting that you reposition the rivets on your thigh ammo pack. Being that close to the edge, if one gets snagged or caught on something it could tear it off of the thigh ridge. Reference images When suiting up, for a clean/crisp look it's important to make sure the tops and bottom of the calves line up evenly. Reference images You may need to add some Velcro or tighten the clasps... Reference image You have a really nice looking E-11 there, Mirko! Just a suggestion that you reduce the number of coils, though. Those were really only seen in publicity shots (they do look cool, though) and not in the film. Cutting back to 8 or 9 as seen in the pics might look better. It won't affect approval at any level, though. It looks like the tip of the cocking lever has broken off. We are suggesting that you use some Bondo (or something similar) to bring it back to it's original shape. Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Items listed in red are from the CRL. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a standard pencil width away from the cheek. This is actually a requirement for Level 2, but since yours are somewhat close we are allowing this for Level 2 and moving it to Centurion. They will need to be re-positioned, though. Reference images "The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down via a white elastic band..." We realize that you don't have a lot of overlap, but this is a requirement. Some white cloth elastic about 5 mm wide is what you need. Reference images The ABS belt should sit "at or just above..." the bottom of the ab-button panels. Raising it even 4 or 5 mm would look MUCH better! Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, the screw heads need to be painted white. Another item not mentioned in the CRL is the placement of the "Han" snap. We do allow a bit of leeway in some cases, but yours has been placed way too far from the corner. We realize that there is a return edge, so you obviously can't place it on a curved surface, but it can be attached right at the edge. Taking off a bit of return edge on the ab plate would look even better, and the hole will need to be filled with ABS paste. Reference images A couple of items about your rivets here, brother- 1. As per the CRL for Level 3, they are "...placed about 10 mm from the edge (of the plates). Note in the last image (diagram) that it's the center of the rivet that is meant. In addition to moving them in, you will need to move them up quite a bit as well, and each set (top/bottom/middle) should match up horizontally with it's counterpart on the opposite plate. This can be a tough fix, but we can help guide you through it! 2. Rivets are painted white, so yours will need a touch-up. ** Another easy fix! **Hint: Before putting the new rivets in, sand down the heads. This will allow for better paint adhesion. Reference images Abdominal and kidney plate align horizontally at the top- In looking at your connections, this can be easily remedied by adding some additional strapping inside on the right interior. It doesn't have to be perfect, but definitely a lot closer. Reference images As shown with the arrows, the areas between the drop boxes/cod are much different. The reason for this is because the ABS belt is not centered. Moving it in to where the center button cover is lined up with the center ridge would line it up perfectly and give you a more symmetrical look. Reference images "Canvas belt must be firm/sturdy in appearance, with no creasing..." (yellow arrow). Most belts have a plastic insert that stays rigid, which is especially important when your E-11 is holstered. We also suggest a slight haircut. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the (ABS) belt. Moving the rear straps out a touch and applying some E-6000 behind the strap will keep these little devils in place! Reference images The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45° angle that meets the outer edges of the cloth belt- You may be able to get away with trimming the ends of the ABS belt, as long as the cut doesn't go into the square button covers on the ends. Lower thigh ridge joins.. shall butt up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS paste or filled as not to be noticeable. I have a thread (link here) which will help! Reference image Last up, there appear to be some red marks on your grip. A quick session with some gloss black paint and you are golden! And that's it. We know you have some work to do, but we have faith that you can take some time and get these items sorted out! Keep in mind that there are a lot of great folks in the German Garrison, and I'm sure if you reach out to them you can find an experienced TK that can assist you on a personal level. Don't forget that we at the FISD are here to help as well! We wish you all the best in your endeavor, and look forward to seeing your submission for Centurion soon!

Working on your review now, Mirko, but we need a favor. Can you post up some close-up side views of your sniper knee plate as seen below? THANKS!

This is my thinking: When suited up and out in public I have no need for my wallet, and if I needed to use my phone that would require removing my bucket (which I don't do in view of the public) so I would need to go back to the changing area where my bin is stored. I keep my wallet/phone inside the bin. After 7 years of trooping I have discovered one thing.. as long as the bins are stored in a private changing area I have never felt the need to even lock mine save on a very few occasions when the area was not secure from the public, so on those occasions I just locked it and kept the key on a rubber band around my wrist (under my glove) for easy access. We tend to be a very honest bunch and look out for other's things as if they were our own, and on many troops there is always someone (handlers/fellow 501st folks) in the changing area. I may be a little naïve in my thinking/method, but I've never had an issue.

That gap is fine, Alex. Plus, consider that it will be partially covered by the belt and drop boxes. Not a requirement at any level, but you may want to trim some more off of the tops. I would wait until you have the front and rear seams connected first, though.. Can you post up a close up pic of the ab button plates? Thanks!

Due to the complexity of that attachment, I don't think this was a one time thing... it takes time and effort to rig up something like that. As you mentioned, we don't normally scrutinize strapping, but if we can find enough screen caps showing this set-up it should probably be a requirement for Centurion.. maybe even EI.

"...I think it's a malfunction of some sort. I'm not sure how the costumes are pieced together for the actors on set, but from just looking at it, it makes me think that the trim at the top of the shin armor just wasn't secured to the rear". I think you may be onto something, Jason, and it would explain my earlier post. Glen is absolutely right... that is definitely a piece of gaffa tape on the side, but the shadow under the raised ridge is what was throwing me, and your image made me feel a little less crazy, lol. Note in both screen caps that the tape goes UNDER the ridge. I'm thinking this was a one-off.. where the ridge broke off of the calf, but why would they put the tape under it? Hmmmm. The plot thickens.

That's the spirit, Scott! Looking forward to seeing the mods on your Centurion submission!!

Just throwing this out there because it's bugging me, but does anyone else find this pic a bit odd? To me at least it looks like an extra piece on the top of the calf (left arrow) but it could be gaffa tape. Also, the back line of the calf is clearly visible and comes straight up, but it appears that the ridge extends out over it leaving a space (right arrow). I'm thinking it just got crunched and that the calf split at the ridge. Or maybe I'm just crazy, lol.

Done!

Hi, Scott, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt EI! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Before we begin, we realize that this is a commission build with modifications, and in some areas it's difficult to tell which from which! However we will go over everything and add some advice. Many of the items shown are fairly straightforward/easy fixes, but some will require some elbow grease. You have folks in your corner in the SCG that are on the ready to help. The items in this first area are only suggestions that we hope you will address, so keep that in mind. On that note, let's get started, brother! As seen in the reference image, we are strongly suggesting that you trim down the ends of the brow trim. Easy fix! Reference images Although not a requirement, the screws on the ears should ideally align with the rear angle of the trap above them as shown, and the bottom should angle back more. This can be a challenge, but definitely doable. Reference images The strapping should be adjusted in a few areas for a more uniform look. Note how the right bicep and forearm sit higher than the left, which also leaves a larger gap between the wrist opening and hand guard. The left side is spot-on! Just dropping the right bicep down an inch or so should take care of everything. Notice in the screen used examples below how the rivet is not so close to the corner. I suggest moving them inward. This will require some skill, but the folks in your Squad that may be able to help. Reference images While some troopers have them, note that the coils on E-11s were only seen in promotional photos and not in the film. While it will not affect approval, we recommend that you reduce he number of them that you have. Reference image Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Although we allow a bit of leeway in certain instances, unfortunately your tube stripes on on both sides will need to be repositioned. As seen in the reference images they should be about a standard pencil width from the cheek. Replacements are pretty easy to get, and this is easier than you may think. Reference images Easy fix here! For Level 3, ear screws "..shall be... countersunk...". 2 seconds with a small screwdriver and you are golden! (Don't go too tight, though). Reference image As stated in the CRL, there should be minimal gaps between the sides of the bells and the chest/back plate. The tops of the bells should also be VERY close (think touching or almost touching) to the shoulder bridges. If you tighten up the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection that should take care of both issues! Reference image As seen below, your ABS belt is sitting a little too far to the right which is throwing off the symmetrical look, causing the left drop box to face forward and the right one to be almost on your side. Another one of those items which is not specifically listed in the CRL but which is seen in the screen caps. Moving it just half an inch to the left will make a huge difference! Reference images In certain cases where a trooper is 6' or taller we allow a gap between the bottom of the back plate and top of the kidney, but since you are 5'10" (like most of the original TKs in the film) that gap should not be nearly that wide. I would tighten up the elastic strapping that connects them, which will close the gap but still give you some maneuverability. Reference images You have the best of both worlds here- screws that mimic the bracket system and straps. (NICE, and I am so totally going to steal that idea)! However, the screw heads need to be painted white.. yet another simple fix! Reference image Another mystery here.. for some reason the builder(s) have placed the upper ab and kidney rivets too far from the top and they (and the ones beneath them) do not line up horizontally. I know this seems like an insanely trivial item, but since Centurion is the highest level of accuracy we must insist that they be moved. As I mentioned, we have the know-how if you have the time and patience! Reference images This is a fairly easy fix... as stated in the CRL, "The corners of the ABS belt shall be trimmed at a 45° angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt". It won't be perfect, but short of buying a new cloth belt the easiest way to fix this is by trimming down the ends as shown. Reference images As per the CRL for Level 3, the (outside edges) of the drop boxes are "...vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt...". Moving the drop boxes into the correct position(s) and then adding a few dabs of glue behind the white elastic straps will do the trick. Reference images Last up is an issue we see often, where the ridge on the sniper knee does not align with the one on the top of the calf. Although this is actually a requirement for Level 2, we tend to relax this item but it is required for Level 3. I know you used CA glue for this piece so it is definitely going to be a challenge to remove, but if you can successfully get it off without damaging it or your calf piece: First you will need start by removing any excess glue. Afterward, it will need to be glued back, with bottom not so close to the front seam of the calf. I have included an image (last pic) of an RS build that shows how it should look. Yes, there is a gap between the bottom of the plate and the seam, but the ridges align perfectly. Reference images RS sniper plate Again, CONGRATS and welcome to the ranks, brother! I know you have some issues to work on, but I have been in touch with Justin and if you are willing he is ready to help you get that Centurion badge under your name.

Hi Will, and welcome back, brother! Great to see that you jumped on things and that we are seeing your submission for Centurion. Please do add some interior strapping photos... I know that you have them in your EI thread, but rules-is-rules, lol. Plus, I am VERY curious to see how you got the posterior plate from this to this It looks like you may have removed all (or most) of the return edges off of the bottom/sides. If so.. BRILLIANT! Or did you just raise it? One other thing is the drop box on your left side. In your EI photos it looks fine, but in your new ones it wants to wander inside a bit. I think the issue lies with the Chicago screw that holds it onto the canvas belt. Moving that screw out is a possibility, but for a quicker fix would suggest just removing the screw, scootching the strap over and gluing it straight to the canvas belt. Easy peasy. Please snap a pic or two when you are done and post it up ASAP!

Can you post up a few pics, Glen? Thanks!!

I don't think a truer statement has ever been made. Until the time comes when I start sporting one of these. It may be awkward.

I personally think you are doing a GREAT job on the thighs, Dave, and I admire your tenacity! Yes, you still have a bit to go, but you have mastered the issues of ABS paste and you are on the right path for sure. You may have already done it, but I suggest trimming the cover strips on the tops and bottoms. The less you have sticking up on the top the better, and the bottom should ideally sit at the top on the upper ridge. That small split (pic 1) is so close to being spot-on! References I get the feeling that you are gonna' get this perfect, Dave. I am blown away with the job you have done so far, so keep up the good work and keep those photos rolling in!

Hi Bart! Yep, I am an older guy (pushing 60.. ancient by FISD standards, lol) and would be happy to answer any armor/trooping queries you may have.