justjoseph63

It's on disc 3 (Documentaries and Spoofs) of the SW Complete Saga set. I think it's called "Heart of a Legion" if I'm not much mistaken.

PERFECT job on those forearm openings, Nate, and the 4 button plate is spot-on. When you get to trimming the legs, I advise trimming all the return edges off of the tops of the thighs before fitting, The reason being is that if you leave them on they can (and will, in many cases) chafe the bejeezus out of your, uh... "bathing suit area". (You get the idea, LOL). Being a fellow Floridian, I suggest getting a cloth neck seal like Darman's. As Aaron mentioned, some are made of vinyl, which doesn't "breathe". After half an hour of trooping outdoors you will be glad you did.

Some folks glue the nylon or elastic straps to strips of ABS and then glue that to the armor, but I have found it easier (and just as effective) to glue the strapping directly to the armor. In a few places this actually can work better as the nylon/elastic conforms to the shape of curved areas. JUst be sure to use E-6000, as CA (super) glue can become brittle over time and come loose. (Trust me on this).

You are correct, John.

I was just thinking the same thing, Eric. Our thoughts and prayers are with you all... (even the Rebels).

Agreed! The Attaches are going to have a tough time judging this one, and it's fantastic to see the participation! Hopefully we will see a huge batch of EI and Centurion submissions coming up soon, (gotta keep Andrew and Tony busy and out of mischief, LOL).

Looking sharp, Sam! Great job on that armor, and nice attention to detail, brother. Just post up the photos Steve mentioned, and you should have that EIB badge under your name soon! When you get ready for Centurion, you will need to bring the left shoulder bell in a bit. Nice alignment on the cover strips and back connections!

Easy fix, brother... almost there!

I have those for sale here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41113-correct-td-screws-for-sale/ Great job on that build, Josh! I think you pretty much have EIB nailed, and it sounds like you are headed for Centurion! For that, you will need to move your drop boxes out to where the outside edge aligns with the outside edge of your ABS belt. (Easy fix). It may be the photo, but it looks as if those ear screws may have to be replaced for level 3. The head should look like the one in the photo below. I have these available too if you need them. See you at level 2 soon, Trooper!

GREAT to hear we have another HWT in the making!!!!

The setup you have now should get you to EIB with no problem, Sergio. You can always add a temporary Velcro connection to the right side below the single one you have now to prevent the "wonky" look. I suggest adding a few snap connections on both sides eventually, as the elastic could pull away from the rivets at some point.

There are a LOT of build threads that have used the snap system. It is what the majority of us use, and some even go with a "double snap" method. If you look through the Centurion submission threads in this section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ you will see some great examples. I myself prefer it as I find it very easy to get suited up, and I like that the various pieces of armor all come apart. My buddy Jeff (Wingnut65) has a great diagram here if you need it: (This the "double snap" system)

I'd say definitely trim down the sides a bit more, Nate. Not much you can do with the top and bottom, but you should be fine.

Nice job on those fixes, Michael! I see an EIB badge below your name soon, Trooper.

Sorry if you misunderstood, Bryce. If you will note, my statement was a suggestion for the next level, (Centurion). "Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB. For this....." Never be sorry about being confused or asking questions, brother. The way the seams are now may be good for EIB, but for level 3 they will need to be flush with the kidney piece, which entails shimming them from the back, filling the gap with ABS paste and sanding/polishing until the kidney/shims are one piece. There are a few tutorials on here, but if I can help just let me know.

Always nice to see a great set of RS armor, Michael! If I could add something to Michael's (Addertime) list, it would be to paint the ear screws white. All those are easy fixes, brother, so don't get discouraged. Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB. For this I would suggest integrating the shims into your kidney armor. Ideally, there should be no seam there (see photo below). Fixing this would entail making up some ABS paste and only hour or two of your time. See you at EIB soon!!

With Walt you will definitely be getting a great set of armor no doubt. Several Troopers have taken his kits to Centurion level and they look incredible. Plus, like you mentioned, 6-8 weeks is nothing compared to a possible one year for Anovos. Plus, Anovos does not supply replacement pieces if you need them. For $450.00, the price point is great. The ABS is thinner than most, but (as Tom mentioned) it can be reinforced in the areas prone to cracking. My main armor is AM, but I jumped on the Anovos bandwagon and used it for my Hero build. I haven't had any issues, but I really don't wear it that much. If you do go with Anovos, I strongly recommend ditching the flimsy canvas belt that is included and replacing it with a heavier duty one. The holster is actually really nice, though. I would also not use the Velcro strapping that they include and go with the snap system.

There are a hundred ways to attach lenses, but I found the easiest one is to use a product called Sugru. It's a glue that is kneadable, like Play-Doh. I just rolled it into a "snake" shape, pressed it around the inside of the eye openings and pressed the lenses in, leaving a gap at the top for ventilation. It is removable if needed, but mine has stuck solid for years. It's not the cheapest stuff in the world, and runs about 2-3 dollars for each small pack (one per eye). I have a few left (black) and can get them to you for $4.00 (including postage). PM me if interested. .

There are a few reasons folks use Plasti-Dip.. One, it makes the inside of your bucket much less noticeable. I have seen some taller Troopers where the white inside really jumps out at you, especially when tilting your head. There are 2 types of the Plast-Dip, the spray and the brush-on. I just used the spray, but some like the brush-on and layer it with cheesecloth (like Jeffrey's above). This gives the helmet a little more "heft". If you do decide to use it, be SURE to give the inside a good sanding and then clean it thoroughly with some rubbing alcohol to remove any dust. Otherwise it may not adhere very well.

When painting rivets, I always suggest roughing up the heads with some fine grit sandpaper (220) and giving them a quick wipe before painting. This gives the paint something to adhere to.

Awesome stuff folks... keep em' coming!

WOW! BIG difference, Sean! Thanks for posting the photos, sir.

GREAT responses, everyone! I gotta answer a question raised by Tisco2K, though... "Who doesnt love stormtroopers ..." Rebel scum, that's who.. LOL. You are absolutely correct though, Charley. Any TK who has been on a troop with members of our sister organization will attest to the fact that people would rather get a pic with a Stormtrooper. We are just that cool.

It may be a while before you receive your Anovos bucket, but if you need a screen for the frown in your RS helmet for approval just PM me and I will send you one no charge. Also, you may not even need the foam in the top of your helmet. I installed a piece in mine during my build, and noticed that it caused it to ride really high, causing the "bobble-head" effect, which I have frequently seen on others. I removed it, and viola... problem solved. The top of my head doesn't touch the top of my bucket anyway, so no need for it.

If you are (hopefully) looking to join the 501st, I would run from this, Aaron. Very fast. There is no possible way this kit would ever be approved. Actually 99.9% of any armor you will find online (like ebay) will be only good for cons or costume parties. It's kind of a "you get what you pay for" thing, and for not that much more money you can get a kit from one of the "vetted" armorers on the link that Dan posted above. I do find the belt in this kit especially interesting...