justjoseph63

Welcome, Dimitri! As for the type of snaps, I would go with the line 24 style. I would advise not purchasing cheap ones, as they can come undone easily, which is not good on a troop. I would get the Tandy brand if you can. Like Dan mentioned, in many areas I always recommend using the double snaps in a lot of the areas, especially the shoulders and ab/kidney connections. Using double snaps is a bit more expensive to do, but you can be assured that nothing will ever fall off or come apart.

RS is certainly 501st approvable, and is one of the most accurate kits you can get. As Q mentioned, the Getting Started section lists the armorers known by the FISD to be "tried and true", and RS is is among them. Here is a link to the thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

Just wondering if anyone has any "official" theatre troops for the TLJ premiere this December. The last few years it seems that there were dozens of them listed by this time on the local boards, and yet there are none on ours. I heard a rumor that LFL (and perhaps "the Mouse") are holding this up until the last minute, but was curious to find out if there was an official reason.

Because of the size of the holes (GREAT fill job, btw) you should be able to get away with a few carefully placed dabs of paint. I would try that on one to see how it turns out before doing the ABS paste route, as it may save you some time.

Not sure exactly what this means... They can't be referring to Imperial Boots, as they are leather, and if you look at many (if not most) of the EI and Centurion submissions they are indeed TK Boots. I know RS has their own line, but I can't see that they have cornered the market. Is there a company out there that is supplying plastic ones that I am not aware of? I know many choose the Chelsea style and paint them, but an "influx" of plastic boots? This is only my opinion, and I realize that becoming a TK is not an inexpensive journey, but those looking for long term trooping should invest in a pair of genuine leather boots. Plastic or vinyl may be a great alternative to start with, especially for those on a budget, but they will crack and peel over time. Leather boots will also conform to your feet and "breathe", unlike plastic. I have close to 50 troops in mine and they fit like a glove.

I kinda' figured that based on your precision so far! Looking GREAT, and keep up the good work!

Are you sure that the center of the rivets on the kidney are 10 mm from the edge? The photo makes them look a bit closer, but maybe there is an overlap.

I wouldn't suggest painting it, JD. Finding the correct color of white may be difficult, and it could make it stand out even more. Making up a new batch of ABS paste is certainly an option, but you would have to remove some of the existing paste before doing that. There are several different commercially available products that can remove the yellowing, which hopefully someone can weigh in with, but I have heard really good reviews on Trooperbay's Armorwhite. Even though you will only need a small amount for this project, it may come in handy later down the road. Here is a link to the product: https://trooperbay.com/trooperbay-armorwhite-plastic-whitening-gel

This is a a shot of some screen used armor which may help.

Hopefully you ordered the E-6000 from a reliable source, Asa. There are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000. The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is really garbage, so be careful!

You can also use a non acetone based paint remover. Just dab a little on a cotton swab.

First, the adjustments in the thighs look MUCH better! I didn't notice the screws on the top of the left calf, (not even sure why they are there, but I would get rid of them) but at least the sniper plate doesn't have holes you will have to fill. You can try ATA for the AB plate. I had to order a new back/chest plate from them to replace my AM ones, and the color is REALLY close! Their customer service is great as well.

When I built my first kit I made the mistake of "cheaping out" on snaps by purchasing them from Wal Mart. Big mistake. (They come undone if you sneeze, lol). I ended up having to remove and replace every single one with quality snaps and using 2 in the areas shown in the diagram. It costs more to do, but well worth every cent.

Line 24 refers to the type/size. The prices can run from $10.00 for a pack of 10 and up. The best bet is to order them in large quantities, that way they are MUCH less expensive and you can sell or give away the rest. This is where I got mine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Line-24-Nickel-Snaps-100-Pack-1263-12-by-Stecksstore-/192146760047?hash=item2cbcd6e16f:m:m0ONS0mlkNZBfCFZ2fRX5sg

HAve you tried ATA?

SUPER nice job on that armor, Gary, and a nice, clean build! Looks as if it should be an easy pass for EI. Hopefully you will be aiming for Centurion right after, in which case I would recommend a few items.. 1. Remove the last bit of return edge from the "bump" at the wrist opening (see first photo for example). 2. Raise the belt up a bit to where the top ABS part overlaps the bottom part of the ab-button panel, (see screen capture in 2nd photo). You obviously put a lot of pride into that build, and it shows. That could very well be one of the best paint jobs I have ever seen here. See you at EI soon!

To quote Ace Ventura... B E A yootiful!

Depending on your size, you can take quite a bit of that off of the forearms, Bryce. Having a return edge on top is not necessary, but some people like to keep a bit there... makes it look a bit "beefier". Having an excess of return edge can also lead to "armor bite", where it digs into your skin when you bend your arm. Below is a pic of a recent Centurion approved RS kit to give you an example of how much you can take off:

Looks GREAT, Andrew! You will want to open up the teeth a bit... Here is a link that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/36-helmet-frown-a-new-hope-stunt/ I suggest picking up a set of needle files at Lowe's (well worth 4 bucks). They came in really handy: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067

Blasters are not required for basic approval, but are for levels 2 and 3. What type did you order?

I learned the hard way about the "double snap" system. During my very first troop, my shoulder bells became unattached, as did my ab/kidney connections. A fellow Trooper showed me how he dealt with this. I literally removed all the single snap connections and replaced them with 2 snaps, and haven't had a problem since, even carrying a HWT pack.

This is normally done with snaps and black elastic or nylon strapping. Some use Velcro, but I don't recommend that for frequent trooping. You should check out some of the Centurion submission threads here for ideas and photos: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ Here is a diagram of a strapping system using the "double snap" system which works great:

Could not agree more.

Great job on that build, Kenton, and hopefully you will be aiming for Centurion after EI approval. For that, I would suggest removing all of the return edges on the wrist opening of your forearm as seen in photo 1 below, and although not a requirement, for a bit more "screen authenticity" you could add a few dabs of white paint to the ends of the hovi-mic tips, (photo 2). Photo 1 Photo 2

I saw in some instructional videos clipping the edges of the cover strips however didn't notice it most of the accepted centurion builds. Did I overdo those? Should I remove them or is it fine? You should be fine there.. Should I let that gap on the edge of the bicep go? You can actually remove that entire section protruding from the top. It will get snagged on your undersuit, and no-one sees it anyway. On the top of the forearm, you can bend that section down (red arrow). If it doesn't affect the fit too much, you can also remove some of that return edge (blue). Be sure to sand all ragged areas like that until they are realllllly smooth. Keep up the great work!