artimorty

And today two coats of rustoleum metallic chrome... Once dry I'll see if needs a little sanding and more paint or I can switch to weathering and assembling. Tanks for watching. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Today is sunny and dry at last! Perfect temperature for painting. I've taken the three parts outside and painted the with three layers of rustoleum bright black preparing them for the silver. After studying, testing and watching bill doran's YouTube video where he paints his Rey's blaster, it seems that painting shiny black before metallic silvers or golds helps to enhance the results and final aspect of the job. So black it is! Sorry for the pic, but a bright day as today seems to drive nuts the cellphone camera. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Ok. Not much feedback on the OFF-> letters font and a couple of failures in size and shape of the off plate itself and the piece on the magazine clip side have been very frustrating and decided to take a break on the magazine and focus on other part. Now it's time to mod the Hengstler counter: First, and as usual, draw my templates using foto references, then stickglued them on a piece of plastic covered with masking tape and cut them to shape. Then using minifiles and sanding sticks, smoothed the contours. Glued them in position. Same process was done for one square shaped and two long "T" pieces on the side, and two long and narrow "T" pieces on the top. Afterwards, I decided to add a squared piece on the back half of the counter to increase the gap between both sides and reduce the way all the new pieces on the front stand out. Then I added two slices of plastic tube cut to size and glued in the central window, and placed a screw in the front one. This screw will be glued in position after painting the blaster to keep it nice, clean and shiny. When I get some milliput going, I will cover the mini-gaps in the corner between the "T" pieces on the top and the side, and the gap between the back half of the counter and his plate. Wooooow, more than 500 views!!! Thanks for watching!!! Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Annnnnnnd here are the pieces glued on the magazine clip. Now for the OFF -> plate. First template I've done was too big, probably I took the measurements wrong transporting them to the paper from the pictures. For the letters themselves I'm thinking about using a 4mm punch letters set, I think the size is correct, but since I've to buy the set anyway... does anybody know if they come in different fonts and if so which one is the right? Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

With the activated milliput that inevitably I have in excess, I'm starting to mold a rectangular section inside the folding stock to give some perspective through the holes. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Hi again. Been slowed down by real life. Last week the house has been crazy with total overhauling of the kitchen and bathrooms. Dust and boxes everywhere. My sw projects have been delayed more than expected, but that also gives me time to think next moves. Now I came up with the idea of modding the magazine clip itself. For that, I traced the lines I wanted directly over the blaster, transport those lines to a translucent paper and used them to build a template for 6 pieces that were copied and cut out from a thin sheet of plastic. In the pictures you can also notice I've roughly placed some milliput in the gap line of the magazine port to resemble some wielding lines. Also you can see the releasing mechanism now in position. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Well. Been busy redoing some lines on the sides, sanding, filling, sanding again, and again and again. Today I have glued all the parts for a final test before painting. Later will drill holes on the barrel and the body to set a metal rod for reinforcement of the lot. I think it's looking good! It's getting time for painting. And that scare me a little not sure how I am going to do this. Thanks for watching. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

While the milliput dries, I've started to mod the selector switch area. Using files, sanded the down left "horn" of the handle to give more space and make it more similar to the pictures. Also sanded the handle over the screw and up to the folding stock, in this case with rounded files to give the area the curved look. Then, freehanded with a pencil the contour I wanted to stand out. Traced this line on a thin paper, cut it and stick glued the paper over a thin plastic sheet. Cut the plastic out and tested the piece in position with the selector switch. I'm thinking now on using tin foil tape on the lower area, but don't know if it would be better to do this at this time (before I glue the new plastic piece) and protect the tin foil with masking tape or liquid latex to preserve it during the painting or better use the tin foil tape after painting the blaster. Also thinking on how to create the ARS letters. Cutting them out of the plastic sheet or getting 4mm punching letters and stamping them... More tests needed.

Hi again. It seems I could spend more time on this project next week, so let's get back to work! I've gone for the mechanism that release the magazine clip. There are two parts. The cilinder was done with a wooden bar cut to size. Then drilled out a hole through it. I tried then to screw an hexagonal screw as seen on reference pictures, but no matter how I did it, it always ended breaking the wood. Wasted three attempts until I decided to go around the problem. Made again a small wood bar cut to size, then drilled a smaller hole through it, the bigger I could go without risking breaking the piece and then cut a slice of the screw that latter will be glued over the hole. Then, covered the upper side of the piece with milliput and while still fresh, made three "o" marks with a brass tube to mimic the pictures. The other part is a flat triangular piece that I cut from the same old sign used before. Glued it in position and here comes a test of both of them. Once the milliput is dried, I'll glue the slice of the screw on the hole and the cilinder will be set in position using a "bed" of milliput to resemble the welding of the original. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

I own a hasbro bs bucket since last Christmas. Bought it in an offer with Kyle Ren's. Nice price for both of them. Happy with the pair but thinking about improving both. This thread helps a lot. Couple of questions here. Having own an EFX lid for almost threee years now, modded it, and thinking about how to get rid of the damn seam line below the teeth... it's very disappointing to learn that I've to provide a seam in this bucket! Hide one in the one that has it and create one in the one that hasn't l! This hobby is getteing a little frustrating...<br><br><br> Second question is more practical. The tube stripes closer to the ears have same blue stripe inside a different and much bigger hole... when modding it, did you cut out the blue tube stripe or the whole hole that contains it? I think the first is the right answer, but confirmation is appreciated. Thanks.

This build is AWESOME. Full stop. Capital letters.

Have to take a couple of days off... beach time with the family. Get you all later on. Thanks again.

Thanks very much for your kind words and for come around here, Brian. Means a lot to get support from top builders like yourself. Hope I can make you smile once I get to mod the scope!... Any tricks and advice will be appreciated.

Not much advance today. Just playing with the release button on the magazine. Using the same technic that I used on the fake rivets of the folding stock, I cut the button on the rubies' clip. Then repaired the clip, rounded the bottom, engrave the screw line with a file. Glued it to a plastic bar, made that thicker using masking tape that later was covered with putty. Cut to the length I felt was right and glued the new piece into position. Now thinking how to mod the rest of the magazine and the magazine clip. Stay tuned... this is becoming an obsession! Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Hi there. Today I've gone for the selector switch. First, using reference pictures for shape and size, I draw miself a sketch on paper to use it as a template. Then cut it and glued on to a piece of sintra covered with masking tape (sorry, forgot to take a picture to document this step, getting lazy about taking so many pics, I think). With the template on the sintra, I went to carve the shape on the old bench grinding machine. Then I used a piece of plastic tube to get the base of the piece. Is one of those hollow tubes you get with the balloons they give to the children in holidays parties or in family restaurants and the like. I have a lot waiting to become handy one day. Make a cut along the diameter line of the tube and filed it to receive the sintra piece and glued both together. After that filled the inner hollow with milliput paste and laid a narrow layer of milliput on both sides of the flat part. Then, while the putty was still fresh, pressed and rolled the head of an old screwdriver to get squared impressions on it, as seen on the fabulous e11 blaster reference thread for the front sight. This trick works better if the putty and the tool you are using to get the impression are both a little wet. When cured, I will try to sand the edges and the odd surfaces, and have yet to think about how to attach this to the main body. Probably screw from the inside. Happy how this turn out. Any comments are more than welcome. Thanks for reading. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Today I've gone for the bayonet lug. Done that with a piece of wood bar and some sintra. Then I put it in place with superglue and secured from the inside with two screws. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

May be too confident... even unwise... As I had the dremel plugged and resting, I took it again and went to change the screw section on the handle. Carved the area and cut the head of an old screw. Tested again and I think it worked. Just a minor hole there than I hope can be easily solved. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Then I went to modify the back joint section of the folding stock. First I carefully cut away the fake rivets with a hobby saw and reserved them. Then draw and cut the tear pieces out of another old pvc sing I had around. After that, tested the tear plates and the fake rivets in position. Success. This one was easy. Getting confident with this project. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Guess what. I had to use a oomoo 30 rubber for another thing. It was defective and very hard to use, but because I had to get rid of it anyway, decided to try a fast dump mold to copy the hex screws I already own. The silicone was in very poor condition but I managed to get a good resin copy of the screws. One is great, the other not so much. I'll try to fix the bad one but if I'm not able, I can always cast another set. Tested on the muzzle... definitely this works! Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

this is soooooo cool....

Then came the muzzle and the screws. Drilled out enough space to place the screws in place. Then tested the screws in position, that's an improvement, isn't it? Those screws might look a little too big, due to the slightly smaller size of the rubies muzzle. I will try to find smaller ones and give them another try. Even if I only find regular hex screws, this will do much better than how it was before. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Now it's time to pay attention to the muzzle and front sight area. First, very carefully did the sight guards. Here you can see one half done and the other just lined. You can also see the folding stock mode half way done. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Then I flip over to the back cup, where decided to carve out the forms that are missing on the rubies. First freehand draw the general shape of the area. Then cut away the excess plastic with the dremel. When painted I hope it will look ok.

Ok. That's official. This little proyect has gone out of hands. Somebody please unplug my dremel or I will end up carving the whole thing down! While in some areas the resins and putties cure, I drill holes and carve others. Don't know if this is ever going to end... Finally the folding stock wasn't working for me at all. All the pictures of nice and beautiful e11s I've seen, show the folding stock not as plain as the rubies' but with some change of plain and holes on them. I had to do something on mine. First I dremeled out the back edge of the piece. Then I draw and cut and shaped a piece of 1 mm sintra to make the lower part and hand painted on it the contours of the shapes I wanted to drill or cut. Then I linked both pieces with miliput and sanded them smooth. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Hello again. Little advance lately. It has cost me more than expected to solve the splintering wood of the handles. I had to prime them, find the problems, fill with tamiya smooth putty, sand and repeat a bunch of times. Once satisfied, I sprayed three hands of rustoleum bright black, very thick layers, to give the impression of plastic or Bakelite... now they are drying in the sun. This ends the construction phase. Next step would be finish the body, assembly and paint. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk