artimorty

Tapatalk went crazy deeply sorry about this

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Tapatalk issues

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Hello again. It's been a while since my last report on progress. It's not that I've done as much as wanted but neither that I've become lazy... I simply couldn't find the right time to post... I'm now very close to end the building phase and want to share with you some new pictures of the actual status of the piece. Since last connection I've finished the rear sight, carving dented edges on both halves in the back with a hobby saw and then a minifile. I also made two rounded pieces out of sintra to be placed inside. Then I went for the front sight again, and decided to change the general shape of it to make both pieces wider. I'm having problems again with the milliput and it's taking much longer to cure than expected... when fully cured I'll clean the area more. Finally, I wanted to make the bottom of the folding stock more rounded. For this I started gluing some sintra leftovers in place... Then, roughly covered all with blue stuff bondo... And worked the area with raspers and files while still workable but not yet cured to get the proper shape. Any minor flaw will be corrected later with glazing putty. And that's all for now. My list of building tasks to do next is to get "something" for the front of the folding stock to simulate some mechanism, to add the proper sight in the front and to complete the front part of the scope, with screws and that... then I could call this done. Thanks for reading! Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Duplicated posts

Tapatalk went crazy and duplicated posts, sorry Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Well. Been very busy last couple of weeks working hard tiding up my workshop space with new shelves and boxes and the lot... the family moved to a new house early this year and my wife was getting anxious about the way my "man cave area" was starting to look, (really a mess close enough to a mining dumping area) so I've been somehow "compelled" to delay the building and combine it with house working and getting things tide up in order to smooth the tempers... With the little time I've had left I've built the end cap clip. First I scaled and traced on paper the shape of the inside T piece. Stickglued that to sintra piece covered with masking tape. Cut it out on the bend saw, sanded the edges and inserted the heads of to small nails in their position. Then added a thin layer of milliput on the upper end and when still fresh rolled over a wet rounded tool to leave the impressions... for the other piece, I used a "U" shaped aluminum bar I got from a general hardware store. Cut a section, reduced the heights on both laterals, drilled one hole on each side, glued the T piece inside and inserted the remains of the foretell beheaded nails on each hole. Here is how it looks waiting to be glued to the blaster.

Hi again Mark, congratulations on your progress, I knew you would pass me over! I still have some things left to do and then will be good to go for painting. This blaster will be displayed on a mannequin when I can have the time to put together the tk armor..., but please, share here any display set you've got in mind... I'd LOVE to see your build when finished, if you don't mind posting here some pics... will be great! I'm thinking I will call this particular blaster version the "e-11s" where the "s" stands for "short". And in the MOEU SW (My Own Expanded Universe) will be a shorter version of the popular blaster to be used in closed corridors and inside space structures where agility is preferred to range... same terrible accuracy, horrible targeting, less range but easier to use inside a star destroyer or a space station... what do you think?

Hi Marc. Sorry it took me so long to answer you. I definitely recommend ANY Rubies conversion. The plastic is very easy to work with and with very little effort you can get a great improvement. Mine has become an obsession but you can find around here many threads that with a lot less modding get to a great looking pieces. Probably if I had to start all again I'd do some things differently or even easier. good luck on your mod and if there is anything I can help you out just let me know. I'm here also to learn from all of you.

Ok. Apparently I can still post indirectly copying the URL... let's see how this work... here I glued the ring to the plastic plate. Then covered the tube with milliput (those guys should endorse this build!), waited it to dry and used files and sand paper to get the right shape. Then glued the piece in position. And here it is done. The ring moves upside down. Happy with it. thanks for watching!

dannnnmmmmm don´t know how to post pics yet under this new page... sorry. I´ll get back to you when I learn how to post properly.

Hi all... at last after this updating process! let see if I can manage around here under this new skin... apologies on advance for the more than probably mistakes that it will take to get used to this. I wanna share with you my latest improvement on this build. I've gone for the D ring. i wanted mine to be able to turn upside down. For this I cut a plastic tube section to size and made a cut all along it, inserting the ring inside. Then glued two small sections embracing the plastic tube across the cut. Taking special care to avoid any glue inside the cut or in contact with the ring. This two small pieces were then carefully glued to a plastic disc I had already made.

Hello again. Some progress done in the last few days... this is definitely evolving into something better and I can reach the end of this build with the tips of my fingers... I've gone ahead and decided that finally was time to close both halves. First added the hex screw at the bottom of the handle. Made a hole the right size in the middle and secured the screw in place on one half with modeling putty Then I glued all the interior pieces already build, glued and secured with a screw the bolt handle and the selector switch, placed the spring, sprayed all the inside and around the barrel holes in black and, at last, glued the 3D printed pieces... This is starting to look more a serious blaster and less a toy gun! Let's see if tonight or tomorrow I can glue both parts together with a strong epoxy glue. Still a lot to do... but already crossed the half way through. Thanks for reading. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Wow. Very nice the lego bricks trick. Good thinking there. Congrats on the build. It's coming along really well.

My pleasure Mark! This is a both direction thing, you've provided best feedback to improve my build, and so you're also to be credited and thanked.In fact I'm up to some new ideas, small details... adding some letters on the blaster. For this, I first carved small trenches with a dremel mill bit, where the letters should go. Then covered those holes with milliput and flattened. When still fresh, pressed over it with punch letters: The A-R-S on the selector switch I know I've placed them a little too low in the switch, but I had the whim to see the three letters The inverted OFF sign on the clip: I still have to sand down a little this letters and figure out how to complete the arrow. I'm also using milliput to fill the trench below the scope rail on the rear part, cause it would be seen from down outside in the spring. And for the gap in the bottom of the inner scope. Still sanding outside, have yet to glue the power cilinders and the trident plug and once glued both halves together, hide the seams, put the D ring and the front sight... then paint at last! buffff... still so much to do! Cheers. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Hi Mark. Not an expert here or anything even close. But going through a lot of reference pictures I have here on the phone (all from different fisd sources) all the release bottoms have the slot, no matter wich of the three or four different models I found.Here some examples. The last is from praetorian blasters. The have a photo gallery of their beauuuuutiful rubber e11 that are great for references. Hope this helps.

I've already prepainted the rod of the folding stock and the bolt. I think that I'm going to paint first around the ejection port and the slot of the spring from the outside first. Then glue the bolt in position. After that paint black the whole interior while still open, then glue the inner barrel and the fake rod... assemble both halves, mask the bolt and the sprig slot from the outside and finally paint all the outside in different layers and weather the lot... it appears to be the right secuence... at least is what I've got in mind for the time being. But first I need to finish some minor detailing.

Hi again. Not much advance this weekend. Just improving some of my previous mods to let's say v 2.0. Following Mark's tips I changed the FREE-LOCK letters and cut out the square part over them. In my case more like a triangle due to the position of the circle and the folding stock. I think it looks much much better now. Tanks Mark!!! Then changed the front part of the scope. Reused the small lenses set of the cannibalized binoculars, inserted in a aluminum tube cut to size. For this I had to sand again the interior of the front part of the scope to make more room. This is how the pieces are placed now. And here a funny shot laying the phone camera flat against the mayor lens. You can see all the way through now, aiming an stormtrooper bucket at the other side of the room, although inverted. Tough I made some tests to fit inside the prism of the binoculars, didn't get any inversion effect. I know zero of optics or phisics of light or any other phisics for what matters, but I know positions, order and distance are key factors in getting the desired results. So... no much more I can do about it. And finally, I upgraded the release bottom on the magazine port, covering it with a random plastic cap I found the other day, that has exactly same size and shows concentric circles on the top part just like it should be... I think the time to close the blaster is tight, have to sand all and prepare the halves and now I'm studying wich way is best to get all the new parts inside and the correct secuence of painting the interior and assemble... Thanks again to you all for your patience and support. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Woooooooow Mark... they look GREAT, you even cut out the rectangular piece over the circle! Definitely I've to try this! It's supercool... they look so clean...Thanks for pointing it out. Hopefully I can get something similar on my own. Thank you very much, nice job!

Best wishes in your build, Andrew. Stellar paint job on the fast build blaster. Following this since I've my BBB stored in my messy basement waiting for me to get the space, the skills and the guts to start it. Will learn a lot here for sure.Cheers.

Hey there Mark... You kidding????I had exactly the same idea trying to improve mine!!!![emoji23] The dymo are still a little too big but much better than the pasta, I tried to make one but up till now no success. I approached the issue cutting a square around each letter and gluing them in position. But that got me two main problems still unsolved: first had to level up the background with the square of the letters and cover the in between lines with putty, and secondly, when I tested painting the prototype, the paint blurred all the letters. Didn't thought cutting each letter separatedly! Did it work? Was it difficult? How does it look? Can you post a picture? Here are two of my dymo letters test. I'm amazed we are having similar approaches and wanna thank you for your great suggestions so far. Not only inspiring but also pushing me farther on the build. I'm also stealing your idea for the minor lens and actually working in getting real lenses on the front part, but I'm going inside it, instead of replacing it. Hopefully this weekend will have some progress about that. Thank you again! Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

And this are the remains of the poor binocular that generously donated parts for my scope. Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Hi Andrew. Sorry but not pics aviable now of the binoculars. The remains are in my trash bin and forgot to take pics. When I get home I'll try to get you some. For the reticle, as Mark said a couple of posts before, my plug and power cilinders came with two decals. One for the counter and one for the scope. I couldn't use the decal cause the background of it is white, not transparent. So I went to a print shop and got several copies of it in a single acetate sheet. For what I know, I saw first those designs somewhere on the rpf. Here you have a link:http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=86295 I think there you can donwload HR images of four different reticles, one of the seems to be the one that came in my set of 3D printed parts. Also there are some interesting advices about faking a lens with the curved bottom of a soda plastic bottle . Hope that helps. Cheers. PD: I have here on the cell phone a copy of those reticles, but don't know if you could scalate them properly.