wingnut65

Yes on trimming the end as marked. In the end, if your forearms are too long, it is the wrist that you would trim to make shorter, not the elbow.

Shoulder bells are too far back. Move the snap plate to the back side of the bell and it will force it to sit more to the front

Looking good! Nice paint on the bucket. I agree with the stripes being a little low FYI, I just had a review from my local Attaché and he suggested a single elastic strap between the chest and ab. That would allow a lot more ability to turn my upper body when trooping. I currently have two double snaps and it is pretty rigid and I noticed you have three singles

Snaps, Straps and Elastic! Where do you start the daunting task of strapping? And, when does it end?? Well. I’ve studied many build threads and EIB and Centurion applications to figure out how others have done their strapping. I’ve looked at many diagrams and pictures and got a better feel for what I was getting into. Some of the most popular and helpful strapping guides, are the diagrams that Bill Hag has put together. However, I met with my local Imperial Attaché (PiettLives), and he suggested a single elastic strap at the chest-to-ab connection for more flexibility when twisting at the waist. On this image, I added this option, and I noted where the snaps will connect with notes A to A. B-B, C-C etc. The arms and thighs are pretty straight forward. Now, what kind of straps do I want?? After reading the Making armor "sit able" thread, I decided to use elastic for most of the connections. From discussions with justjoseph63, I decided to go the double strap method, just to have a comfort of a second snap to hold me together. I ended up using his strapping pix as my guide for what I wanted to do. I started out with 40 of The Tandy Leather, Line 24 Snaps. Going with double snaps, it didn’t take me long to run out and I had to buy 40 more. Reinforce The Elastic! I’ve read the suggestions of others to fold over the elastic on the end to help prevent it from pulling off the snap. I can see how that could be an issue. Being an engineer, I wanted to see how could I improve on this to prevent my elastic from pulling off the snaps? If all the stress of pulling the elastic and snap off the armor will stretch the elastic and distort the hole at the snap, then, yes, the snap could eventually pull off the elastic. It would probably happen at the worst moment at a troop far and from any tools. I came up with a solution that will eliminate that from happening by putting all the pull stress on a non-elastic pull tab. I made 2” (50 mm) long pull tabs from nylon strapping material and put it under the elastic. This will make all the pull stress on the tab, go straight to the back of the snap to pull it off. No stresses should be placed on the elastic. At least, not on the hole to stretch it out of shape. At least that is the concept. NOTE: I had issues with the snaps in this picture because the bent over post wouldn’t let the snaps to actually snap. The fix is coming up… Making Straps! With that design concept in mind, I started creating my straps, tabs and snaps. Lots of them. I cut many nylon straps to 2” long and elastic to lengths as needed. I measured hole locations 15 mm from the end of each piece and used a soldering iron to melt a hole through each. And then I installed the snaps. After cutting each elastic and nylon strip to length, I used a Bic lighter and melted the ends to keep them from fraying. TIP: Don’t Get Scratched! The melted nylon ends are often very sharp and could snag my black under suit. Using a small Imperial Attitude Adjuster, I was able to convince them all to be soft again. Kinda like a meat tenderizer, but just to soften the hard nylon clumps! (Nice action shot!) Using a soldering iron, I melted holes in the elastic and nylon. BTW, watch your fingers when punching through. I came close, but no scars to show. TIP: Melt - Don’t Punch! Interesting thing, the rubber bands in the elastic does not melt easily. This really helps in maintaining the strength and elasticity of the elastic over using a punch to cut all these strips. Oh Snap! I’ve never done any snaps before, so how hard can it be??? Wellllll! Harder than I first thought! I was able to totally destroy several of my first few snaps. Since I knew I needed more snaps than I had and these actually were solid, I left them. (I just hope the D.O. doesn’t inspect the inside of my snaps!) I figured that the small tool I was using to set the snaps, probably was not big enough to split the ends of the post. So, I came up with a way to persuade them to split a little easier. I used my smallest wire cutter to cut, or at least, score the sides of the post. I then used a Phillips head screwdriver bit to start the post opening in the right direction. Then using my small snap flaring tool, I just finish it off. Since I started doing them this way, I have not made another bad snap. (You may have better tools or much better luck than me and you may not need to do this step) Help, My Snaps Won’t Snap! When testing the strapping, I had issues with several snaps where the female ends would not click onto the male side, no matter how hard I tried. I found a lag bolt that would fit just inside the female side of the snap. Using the Imperial Attitude Adjuster, I pounded down the post a little more. Problem solved! Making Snap Plates! From the excess plastic sheet I had left after cutting all the cover strips, I cut a bunch of single and double snap plates. There is much discussion on the forum as to which is better – plastic back plates, or nylon back pates. I think I chose plastic since that is what I saw on a few of the first build threads I read during my research phase. Also, since I had the extra plastic and would need to buy the nylon strap, this was the cheaper option However, I did need to make a couple nylon snap plates for use on the curves of the chest plate. Tools I Used For Snaps, Straps and Elastic! Here is the assortment of tools I used for creating all my strapping. Plus a pair of scissors! The actual star-shaped setter and double sided anvil are from a Dritz brand ‘Heavy Duty Snaps/Tool’ kit that is available locally at Jo-Ann’s and Wally World, for less than $7.00 And finally, one of the most important tools for making secure snaps, is a solid work surface to pound on. This is really not the task to do on your kitchen table. I use a block of steel as my backing block. I set that on a piece of wood so I don’t damage my wooden stool. With this setup, no matter how hard I hammer, I will not knock stuff off my workbench. Just so this post doesn’t become too long, I’ll take a break here. Next up, Installing the Snaps and Rivets!

Just saw this one on FB

If these are rivets you already have, I'd be curious to know if those could cut the shank to create a split rivet. If so, try it on a scrap plastic and see how it looks. If have not purchased these yet, the split rivets that jj63 mentioned are very easy to use. And, Yes, you do use a washer on the back side.

Thanks, Tony for checking in. It is great for us newbies to know that the Inspector General is looking over our shoulders. And having a local Imperial Attaché to share some expertise is a Bonus! Thanks, Ken for your time and guidance in helping me joint that magnificent Legion of White! I have my marching orders (aka, a To-Do list). I am getting close on the armor, I just need to catch up on my build thread. Possibly other experts around here would have caught an item or two that you did. Before I move on, just a little update. More Ear Info! Justin requested a picture of the bottom ear screws and I realized I should also add a few pictures of the screws inside of the bucket. So, here is the left ear. I will cover the painting in an upcoming post. Seeing the inside of the left ear reminds me what I had to do to get the eye lens installed. Because I cut my ear screws so short, I had to unscrew the #8 screw that I used to hold the bucket together. I had to push it through the hole and it is now rattling around in the ear disc. I will re-do the screws when I pull the ears off. The bottom #6 ear screw came close to the #8 bucket holding screw, but they both fit. Outside Right Observations inside the right side: 1. This shows how I should not have trimmed the back of the helmet so much. I was worried of having the bucket fastening screw pull out if it was so close to the edge of the plastic. I added a tab of plastic to screw into. Still need to paint it. 2. This also shows how easily the Rust-Oleum Hammered paint will scratch off the ABS if there is no sanding or proper primer under it. I will repaint by spraying into a cup and using a bruch to touch-up. 3. And, this shows how close the bottom ear screw came to the bucket fastening screw. It works and it is tight, so I’m not that worried, but the perfectionist in me says that I can do it better. Add that to my To-Do list! Now, as promised… Next up, Snaps, Straps and Elastic!

It almost looks like the primer may have been drying before it hit the bin. That should be able to be knocked off with a scotch-brite scrubber pad to minimize the effects of sanding. JJ63 is right on trying a small area first to see how it takes to the top coat. BTW, I love your Lego Westy. I have a '65 11-window split in my garage right now! Same color, too!

If they are too extremely tight to put on, there is a good chance they will crack while trooping or while leaving the bin in the car. I've seen others that have sanded down the end of the pipe a millimeter or so, so that it will slide on easier

Thanks, Tony. I'll post the sniper plate update when I can get caugth up... Time To Face The Fears and Cut The Ears! Terrell is very gracious with his ATA kits and he provides two sets of ears, just in case… I am hoping that I don’t have to use the spare set. Before starting this daunting step, I re-watched TrooperBay’s video, starting with ‘Part 10- How to Assemble a Stormtrooper Helmet’. Work on the ears goes through video Part 14. I started by marking the visible mold lines in pencil. I used an X-Acto and scored a line just outside the mold line to give myself room to sand it and fit it to my bucket. I continued deepening the cut until I felt it was about half way through. I used my aviation snips to cut up to the score line. I made a lot of cuts so the pieces wouldn’t be too big to snap off. Then just a little pressure to snap off the excess. Sand the disc of the ear perfectly flat using a sanding block and 120 grit sandpaper TIP: Before I went too far on sanding the disc, I trimmed a notch at top for ear so it would sit flush with additional layer of plastic for the back of shell. The whole back edge of the disc was sanded down thinner than the front of the disc, but not enough to look too thin. Here’s where patience comes in… I fit the ear to the helmet where it looked right and it covered the seam completely. Using a pencil, I mark high spots that needed to be removed Then using only the sanding block, I sanded back to the pencil line. Then it was fit, mark, sand, repeat. I did this multiple times for front and back of each ear. TIP: Do this next step later, like after you have your lens installation worked out! Another lesson learned! The ATA kit comes with all the screws for the ears. I was concerned with the extra length and before thinking what I was doing, I trimmed all six screws to the length I thought I needed. I forgot that I had planned on using the upper screws to hold the lens in place. Oops! And I didn’t have any more #6 countersunk machine screws in the workshop! Three screws were used on each ear. The right ear is the better of the two ears. Not too bad for an hour and a half work! (I forgot to take any ear pix after I mounted them, so these are as I was starting to paint. Please forgive me!) I’m still not completely satisfied with the way the left ear sits, but the little gaps are screen accurate. It’s just perfectionist in me wants to take this off and fix it. Since I also want to countersink the screws a little more, I will probably remove the ear and sand it a little more. Next up, Snaps, Straps and Elastic!

The vendors we have here are very good at filling in the missing, broken or Oooops! pieces. Contact one and see about just ordering the covers.

The vendors mentioned here sell a lot to FISD members. They would not still be around if their products were not high quality. I applaud those Troopers who have set up a business supplying future Troopers! And, I am completely satisfied with my neck seal and holster from Darman and my canvas belt from TrooperBay!

If it were me, for that price of the boot, plus $7-10 for white shoe spray paint, plus white fabric paint for the elastic and then add the time to tape off the shoes before painting, the $120 sounds really good

The button covers on the belt are provided from the kit manufacturer. What type of armor kit are you building?

Richard, for the paint, make sure it says specifically on the label that it is designed for use on plastic. Most all paints and primers will cover plastic, but those designed for it will really take hold and not flake off. In my squad, we have a couple Troopers and a Fett who use the small 23-Gallon Sterilite bin with wheels and everything fit, including their buckets. I saw these at Wally World while back-to-school shopping. I'm leaning towards the gray, just to be a little different.

+2 for the Bass Amsterdam boots. I wore them to work for a couple weeks before painting them and they are very comfortable. Cant' wait to troop in them. For the correct pricing on Amazon, you need to select your shoe size. I have no idea why, but they are priced differently for different sizes. Mine were only $59.

As long as you can make the cane look like a T-21 or DLT-19, no one will ever notice! BTW, thanks for your service to the country and now willing to serve the Empire!

QUESTION: SNIPER PLATE BOTTOM EDGE RETURN? So, I left trimming the bottom edge of the sniper knee plate until the calves were together. I am getting close to mounting this and need to finish trimming it, but I don’t see anything telling exactly how much of a return is correct on the bottom edge. Or even if a return is needed. I ended up trimming to the pencil line, to leave about 1/8” (3 mm) return. As I try to fit the plate on the calf, the inside corner has cracked. So I looked to see how others have done this. As I research more, I see that maybe there isn’t supposed to be a return. On VulpX’s EIB application, it really looks like Richard’s plate sits flush against his calf. (Nice work Richard and Congrats on EIB #505!) Do I need a return edge on the bottom of the sniper plate?

Thanks, Justin. I've seen some other builds include the Hindsight Tips to share some knowledge they have acquired in the build process. For me, I think I come up with many brilliant ideas, but some of them probably weren't so great in the end. I just don't want to lead anyone else down a wrong path. Thanks for the offer, Ty. Ken and Joseph have also offered a guiding hands. I just need to figure out my time available with a busy work schedule and family plans. Gotta keep the Mrs. content to be able to have hobbies like this. Progress is still being made!

Exactly. Contact Karin

Nice work, ST! The weathering really looks intense. When I weathered my Tusken, I tried to use three different colors to add more depth to it. I like your idea of adding gray. I am planning on painting my tube stripes this week and I love how SP did it and made it look so easy! It isn't mentioned, but did he uses the base layer of white before the blue? Also, beautiful work on the blasters. The stock on the one looks 50 years old! Nice!

It's Bucket Time! With less than a week to go before a family trip, I started on the bucket to get it as far along as I could so I could take it with me to a wedding in Huntsville to show my Star Wars fan brothers and nephews. Let's get started... Reading other helmet build threads, I decided to paint the inside of the bucket before cutting any holes. In my paint cabinet, I found I was out of all cans of Gloss Black paint, but I did find a half can of Rust-oleum’s Hammered Black spray paint. This could be a nice touch! I taped off the whole outside of the bucket and sprayed several light coats of paint, until it was completely covered. TIP: Be sure to sand the inside of the bucket to roughen it up so the paint adheres better. I did not and wish I had. I also wish I had uses a primer or base coat of paint that is designed for painting plastic. As I've been working on the build, I've scratched the paint and some more flaked off rather easily. I touched it up with a paint brush and paint sprayed on some cardboard. Not too bad! I taped around the ATA Makers’ Mark! In the shape of the trap! And now on to one of the most feared parts of the project, besides the ears, trimming the bucket! I used pandatrooper’s excellent build thread: “HOW to: assembling ATA ABS helmet #1”, as a guide for each step of the process. I kept my tablet close by to compare my work to that of the master! I marked in pencil where the edges are to make the cuts. I drilled the stress-relief holes in the corner of the brow and then carefully made the cuts along the brow and around the ears. TIP: I wish I had left a little more at the bottom where the screw needs to go. I then trimmed the face, cutting the brow at 1.25” (32 mm) above the eyes and then straight at the side edges at the mold lines at each ear. So, how did it fit? Not well! I think the brow is just a little low! Talk about lack of visibility! Much better, but still needs work! Next, I started to cut out the teeth from the back using my Dremel with a high speed cutting bit. I kept taking small steps at grinding and kept checking my work. Before I got too far, I started working from the front with an x-Acto. Then smoothed the openings with a small file. The frown is done and now on to the eyes. On the ATA kit, there is a definite line at the edge of the mask mold where the cut needs to be. I started scoring lightly and then got deeper and deeper, until it went through. I used a small piece of rough sandpaper to even out the surface to be even across both eyes. Using some standard Imperial-Issued, Blue Adhesive Binding Strap, I measured and located the center of the cap and the center of the face to align them both. I cut the rubber brow trim and put it on to help with the alignment to get the brow to sit right. Small 1” c-clamps were able to hold the cap in place. Then I built up all my nerve and drilled the screw holes. Yes, I’m going with screws instead of pop-rivets, just in case I ever need to take the bucket apart. I don’t know why I would, but it will be very easy with machine screws and nuts. TIP: I wish I had just clamped the bottom first without drilling the screw until after the ear placements were located. When I found the sweet spot for aligning the ears, the bottom ear screw is so close to one of these screws that the washers hit each other. Looks like I will need to relocate one of the two bucket holding screws. Next up, Face Your Fears and Cut The Ears! Hey, that rhymes!

Welcome to FISD, Zach. I guess I am too new around here to recognize that helmet style to know who the maker is. Looking into the source website, it is noted as an "FX/GT Helmet", but I cannot find any info here on FISD that even mentions FX/GT. To answer your question, I think the best way to start is by using masking tape to put the back and cap together to create a single piece, which is much easier to assemble with the face. Take measurements to find the centerline of the back piece and the centerline of the rear of the cap to make sure they align correctly. Then find the centerline of the face and the brow of the cap to get those two aligned. Use tape and clamps to get it together before drilling any holes. You can always post pix here as you work on it to confirm your progress before you drill. Good luck on your build!

They answered your paint/don't paint question, maybe this can help towards your snagging question. For the cod rivet, if you go with elastic and snaps, the elastic will cover the cod rivet to shield it from the under armor. I was also worried about snagging on the side rivets. When I bent them over and hammered them down, they didn't go all the way over, or even come close to locking in place against the armor. I used a small socket to persuade the rivets to get them to fold over all the way. Since I painted the rivets before installing them, I used a towel under them for protection as I hammered on them. So far, this seems to do the job. If I still have concerns of snags, I will use a piece of white duct tape over them.

That is what is commonly accepted. Bar closest to the face is the first, or front bar. Bar closest to the back is the fourth, or back bar. CRL mentions ear bar rank stripes only for Centurion level, which calls for the ear bars to only have one bump painted black. Just to put rank image in this thread, here it is