TK bondservnt

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good one!

wow! the air worked! very nice job.

every ATA lid I've ever made I've changed out the rubber trims!

rob is very correct here. one of the best ways also to solve the situation is to simply purchase shorter length screws. I actually cut the screws off manually with a pair of nail cutters and I follow rob's advice by simply using pliars to remove the nut after cutting, to re-assemble the ears. RS should know! they have been making quite a few suits these days!

thanks mark, I'm sure that members watching this thread would love to see your table in action! take a video and photos so we can all marvel at the process of making things. I've had lot's of good teachers over the years and I've studied a lot. but I was planning to get into forming before I realized how many scores of people are doing it. like paul, you, AP and so many others... it's too hard to count! I decided not to enter the forming stages of the hobby but I am still obsessed with knowing and meeting people who are interested in that part of the hobby. my main passion is to study casting and molding. which I'm in the process of obtaining the correct tools and methods. my goal is to make resin blasters of the highest quality. it's been about 3 years of research and testing. and soon I'll start the process of molding. I need to purchase more original parts, and the whole rebel gun situation is getting pretty interesting. the goal is to have every small arm that I'm interested in. the e-11 the snowtrooper, the han solo versions, and imperial variants the MGC and a demilled sterling are in the shop, I'm just studying right now. I even have the sterling inner barrel and want to make replicas that have as many of the working parts as I can do. keep up the good work jeffery.. we're all proud of you here!

keep up the work... nothing like do and do again! this stuff is not easy by far! I have my lid almost done... and it arrived today

I put that list of stuff out there. and I think how the first example pulls he did were actually pretty darn good! you should see the list of things you need to do pressure resin casting! the list is even larger! remember keep calm and have fun!

it only makes sense to pre heat the molds, pre heat the plastic and keep the air in your work area a constant temp mark makes some good points there. I always see vac forming machines with the oven on top and usually people need to keep track of temps and air temps some machines actually blow hot air into the plastic from below to make an air bubble, which then allows the introduction of the mold from below then the vac is slowly introduced in short bursts until it's finally set fully. then even full pressure is gradual and slowly applied until it's the correct amount for the tool and size you're doing why dont you try adding the following features to your table 1 a lift below the forming area with the forming surface moving upwards from below the vac chamber 2 add a heat gun and a compressor to blow the plastic into a bubble 3 put the heater on top on rollers to allow the plastic to be heated from above right over the forming area with the lift in the lowered position. 4 when plastic is heated fully and saggging. blow a hot air bubble into it, lift the mold into the bubble and then pull slowly on the vac 5 cool the surface of the mold and press the plastic into the mold by applying a soft even blast of compressor air over the outside surface. 6 allow the mold to cure and partially cool and cut off the excess at the front of the faceplate and cut off the front of the helmet at the brow and cheek line 7 allow the molds to cool and blow air from inside to help pop them out of the form while prying with a small tool to help release making the lift area totally enclosed below the table surface would allow you to keep the pre heated mold box and forming surface an even temp by putting the oven plastic and forming tool lift in the same space and allowing your heater to roll over the top on rails and pushing away to the rear allows 2 things. you can pre heat the mold on the lift by simplly rolling the oven over the top. then when the mold has been pre heated the plastic sheet can be clamped into place and then the heater can be rolled over the top again. this keeps the mold box lift and plastic all heated. move the forming proces into a temp controlled spot. wear a respirator and after the process is complete ventilate the area.

how about putting the oven on top of the plastic and allow it to sag as much as you need? add a blower to your table to allow stretching the plastix also you should ask troopermaster about pre-heating the abs at a lower temp prior to bringing it to a forming temp last time I spoke with TM paul he mentioned a pre heat stage and then a forming stage for ABS

well said. and I completely agree!

when you start to fit your lenses that will tell you more to do. the teeth also need some less materials on the vertical side.

more info paul.. we need to know the jiggery pokery.

looks pretty close. the brow line eyes and teeth trimming need advice from paul, as he's more of the expert at the fine details. I like your brow line, and I'll be following this thread as I do have a TM hero on the way.

how is this comment following the objectives of the 501st legion? if you don't like my thread then don't comment on it.

the goal of this thread is not post count. it's not to be negative it's not to be called a fool actually that is against legion policy In a week's time I'll get the lid and post here for you to be critical, and rude. the FISD used to be a nice place to be a part of. I'm member of the legion and I deserve just as much respect as anyone who posts a thread even before they get their armor. or helmet or blaster many people post threads and then take weeks to add content, being polite is a factor aside from joking around. there are rules here that are being broken mark was being funny... and jokes are fun. but calling someone a fool, or being blatently negative goes against the legion charter. we are never to put someone down or be critical. we are supposed to represent the STAR WARS universe with professionalism, and pride. not facebook style criticism. I started this thread because I wanted you all to have fun waiting WITH me for a lid I've wanted since 2008 anyone who makes negative comments will be taken to task on the legion level. the goal of the FISD TROOPERS HELPING TROOPERS UNQUESTIONED LOYALTY remember that

there is no way paul hoffer would call me a fool for starting a hero TM thread. what a nice job our beloved Detachment leader supports me brah,,, start over

huh? the FISD has lost it's mind. I post a thread about my hero lid, and the members of the site show impatience. ignorance and malice weak. the only fool is the one who is a critic of that which he does not know. and in the company of fools... I feel welcome.. for far too many fools attend this thread. what I say push off if you don't like the thread then move along

what does this have to do with a build thread?

again... push off. what I say not what matters.

ok I am building a hero lid from TM push off. so I guess the FISD has degenerated into a bunch of critics with nothing to do but talk smak there was a time on this forum when people were polite and having fun. now it's just a bunch of wankers

I purchased a hero lid from paul... and even with all the people posting. you most likely won't like it anyway! LOL

some people run a bamboo stick ( think BBQ kabob stick) around the hole area to push the plastic down more into the frown.

you will really like AP... it's a really fine kit!