TK bondservnt

EVocron might be what you're looking for! nice looking engine they have there!

it's only a 1/2 of a MM so it's really not much of a difference. I like the TM 2mm because of the capped gloss.

start with the belt and bottom of the torso, then move up to the chest and back. the bottom torso needs to pull up like a dance unitard. you want the butt plate and ab plate up really really high on your body, then the chest will naturally overlap. the harness strapping system seems to work best on shorter people. connect the bottom parts of the torso together with the belt tight. then add straps over your shoulders from the ab to the kidney. then put the chest, back , shoulders, biceps over the top of that. like a t shirt. wear your undersuit when fitting the lower torso, board shorts won't cut er bro!

I have stated in the first post that it was an idealized lid with the intention of not having ear gaps. it's a monstrosity? you mention I'm rude? I complimented each person's lid here, from wayne, to karin. but you adrian, you don't have much to bring to this thread. and yes, I have the "celebration edition" or Master Replicas Celebration Edition. and I thinned out the ears on it too!

the belt will pull everything tighter. so account for that.

when you line everything up, look at a screenshot. do not use any other way of lining up armor. no fan photos really suffice. you have to have it all together with the belt and everything to really know where to trim. so don't cut anything until you get everything done. the belt is going to change the shape of the AB kidney and butt plates. don't trim until you're almost done with the armor. you should add the butt plate to the situation and let us see where you're at.

RT mod makes thigh armor that he can size to you.

you can use less ribs in front than 5 if the fitting is better. some use 3 or 4. the alignment of the chest and back, determines the position of the AB front, and then you line up the kidney with the ab, and the butt with the kidney. in your photos, it looks like your back plate is too high, and kidney also too high. so in essence you start from the top of the shoulders and go down.

you need to line everything up properly before you do anything.

you won't like ebay armor, stay away from e bay. read this: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11538 it takes most people longer than a month to order armor, get it shipped, and then build it. it's not like making a model airplane!

at the top of your shoulders the distance is determined by the thickness of your chest. the shoulder straps need to be taped into position with 5 small ribs plus the large tab at the front. with the shoulder straps in position, cut the rear large tab off. then with the proper position of the shoulder straps you can hang the back plate with 4 ribs overlapping the back plate, using your shoulder straps as a guide. this puts the chest, back and other parts in proper alignment.

it's ok ingrid, you can use car polish if you want.

it's not my idea... it's the different paintjobs in the film sterlings that I can and do replicate. I can do crinkle, promo or 50's style. the esb version shown in this thread by the original poster is an ESB version designed to be shown as a original finish gun, painted over with paint by the prop department, or bapty's gun prop store. THAT alone is why it's so rough. if anyone wants a british spec smooth, that's easy. but those finish types were not used in STAR WARS.

that gun has been repainted after demil. the finish has been ground off and repainted.

in the 70's they actually made and sold sterlings with crinkle paint. in the star wars films, the blank firing weapons had to be pre 70's imports to england for the blank firing scenes at elstree. the weapons used were the 1950's sterling with phosphate zinc finishes which were then anodised black. zinc finishes are VERY textured. then bapty painted them again, for an even rougher finish. the tubes on later spec weapons sent to germany have all been stripped of original paints during the demill process. that's why they are smooth. most star wars blasters that are smooth have been demilled by a gunsmith, which requires the removal of paint to weld and braize the parts back on. zinc finishes have to be ground off with a grinder to get all the oxides off. in the promo shots with carrie fisher you can clearly see a new spec folding stock and crinkle paint. in the film you can clearly see han firing an old spec pre 60's version with phosphate anodize finish. here's a couple of excerpts from the discussion I link below: Q "Sterling L2A3 Wrinkle Finish Paint A question for the British contingent I suspect, but when did Sterling SMG's gain their wrinkle finish paint? was it applied in the factory, or a base refurbishment feature - and if so when did it become a feature? Thanks in advance of some quality posts! " A "Sterling SMG's were painted with the wrinkle finish during new production when going for commercial or export sales. British military variants were painted with smooth Suncorite 259 paint at the factory and during subsequent FTR programs." A "Dead right Brian. Additionally, the crackle paint was painted over the phosphate finish. It was the same paint, made by TRIMITE, that was used on MGB dashboards if you're interested" A "I've experimented here doing Sterling refinishing for customers using a crinkle finish paint I get from a company called Easton. I apply it over fresh manganese phosphate and it's very tough once cured out and has the same fine crinkle like the originals." (he's talking about 70's crinkle finish guns sent from sterling.) A "|The UK Military spec for the Fazakerley and Sterling SMG's specified the bog standard UK MoD finish. This included the L34 silenced guns too which put the Sterling company out a bit because when the UK MoD ordered xxx (restricted quantity), they couldn't be supplied from stock because the stocks were all crackle finish. So they had to do a new run, just for the UK MoD. As a matter of interest, the UK MoD found themselves sitting on a large quantity of commercial crackle finish end caps and butts. In order to utilise these within the spares supply system, special relaxation was sought - and approved. But there was no relaxation granted for a large quantity of commercial crackle finish casings. As a result, they were scrapped although some were bought back by Sterling. So, in theory, the owner of an ex UK Military gun could have a crackle finish butt and/or end cap. But that's all............. Not plain finish, Not UK Military There's a good, cheap little book about the Sterling SMG that you might enjoy reading Stan. Available from Collector Grade I seem to remember" here's a link of british military types discussing the 70's paintjjobs done. 70's sterling paint I'll try to post photos of original finish weapons from both periods. 50's and 70's the main point here is that the factory in the 70's painted them with a rough finish. and the UK MoD had changed it's spec from rough to smooth. in the 60's and earlier versions in the 50's we have different methods of finish used. here's one demil with all of it's finish removed.

yoda say far too smooth this scope should not be. perhaps we shall not be a smooth scope then? hmm?

smooth blasters are wrong. texture is on the real thing. sergiu likes it. my real sterling has texture... but I suppose most people are used to looking at a sterling replica that has been repainted and sanded down. martin, I don't think you understand the "shoddy" paint job is the result of having a real un painted sterling texture set to work from. sure... people like shiny and smooth paintjobs. but they are wrong. even the "hammered" paintjobs that some have done don't show the real texture of the REAL sterling paint. the flash on his photos has created a lot of highlights. it looks like it has white spots on it. but in a less lightening light the paint looks much better. the paint was done in several stages, primer, primer, texture with putty applied in the proper locations. flat black inside, gunmetal bolt, inner spring gunmetal, gunmetal trigger, weathered bolt. all weathering was done with gunmetal silver drybrushing and hand rubbing. sealed with a matte clear. grips are a weathered gloss replicating the finish on real grips.

it's not just the diameter measure, the length of the thighs can also be an issue with having a lot of black showing in the legs. RT mod can be lengthened or shortened as well as changed in diameter. perhaps a hybrid with ata and rt mod parts?

I have both an m40 and an m38 and they look really very much the same. I think both were used on E-11's the only difference on 'some' m40's is a square front foot. some sterlings in star wars fired blanks, some had no trigger at all and were filled with welded billets. some were cast in resin... lot's of different versions used in the film. some sets had only false guns, to keep costs down.

does not look lan based. as you asked for.

I have a friend who likes to run his own servers... I've asked him about your gaming interest... we should hear back soon.

wow thanks for the shout out darren. more photos! too much flash.

you don't use cement, or glue. certain solvents melt abs and the result is a thick melted mass that when evaporated it forms into a sandable and polish ready surface. it's not perfect, but it comes close. you have to use the proper tools in a industrial situation to properly handle ABS paste and you have to make it from the plastic that your armor is made from to match the color.

check with RT mod, he makes a nice looking larger bucket.

my signature has blaster photos. esb is a standard e-11 without the extra parts ie power cells on top of magazine well, hengstler counter on side. there is also the snowtrooper or ESB promo trooper version with greeblies. the london prop store version is one that was not used in the films.