ukswrath

Thanks my fellow garrison trooper

I/we appreciate it. I may be putting my build on hold till I can see these new details.

He said they're being shipped today. Funny thing I was asked to ship the TKs to the rightful owner and I would be reimbursed for the shipping...lol ATTABOY IB

Thanks Tim

Yea I received mine this past weekend however I was sent TK boots instead of TFA The gloves were correct though

Thank you for the clarification Brian. I hope you understand I not trying to be a jerk about this it's just my OCD is in full tilt with the TFA The TFA community does appreciate any information you can give us.

Your dirty trooper is looking nice Kirk

Randy thanks for the kudos brother. Spilled milk... lol , no disrespect my brother but it's obvious by now there are some that had knowledge about important armor details (IMHO) and yet were just now hearing about it. Myself and many others are building their armor with L3 in mind, not just basic. Some of us are also spending a great deal of time and money when it comes to preparing our armor for paint, and the painting itself because of so many cracking and paint issues discussed in other forums. Once prepped and painted correctly you don't just go back and make modifications without spending more money. So getting it correct the first time is important. We're also on a time deadline here. Most of us need, or would like to have our armor completed before VII release. It would be one thing if there were no other information out there regarding armor details until the movie released, but if there is, and this information may effect upper levels of accuracy in the future than we (the TFA community) would like to know about it, in detail, soon. If we're to take Brian's word as legit, and I assume it is, then we need documentation so we can "Make our ANOVOS armor more accurate" as stated. Hey, someone else let the cat out of the bag, I'm just trying to find it

Love it! Mine is almost finished also

Understood. You never answered my question regarding why this information wasn't disclosed sooner.

I just realized I have posted this in the wrong section, my bad. Move it if you need to.

Ok let me clarify. I know there's a seem there, I guess my point is your version has a very deep crease compared to screen clips. A crease that may require some serious alterations to create. I'd like to compare the two versions, yours and ANOVOS to TM & RS for example. TM is sculpted (enhanced) to define specific areas however, it doesn't make it more screen accurate than RS. To use your own pic, where is the seem on the trooper to the right? Maybe it's not as defined as yours or maybe it doesn't exist at all on certain armor as someone else mentioned, who knows. I guess my point is, does your version and your knowledge of the armor make current versions of ANOVOS armor any less accurate?

Well if Germain's pic is accurate in any way this is going to be interesting to say the least. There are either items not included (which you may be able to buy later) or will need to be modified as illustrated here. If there were a checkered waving emoji I would be waving it.

Yes

In this tutorial I'll be making the right two vertical belt boxes functional at the same time maintaining visual and mounting requirements NOTE: This is obviously optional, not mandatory. NOTE: Also, I suggest performing this procedure only after the boxes are ready to mount on the belt (fully assembled except for attaching front and rear sections) prior to painting. Objective: To create a inner bracket system securing the front box cover to the rear back plates allowing the boxes to become functional. Steps: 1. Measure the distance between the front box inner wall to the back plate inner wall. Subtract the front and rear section plastic thickness. 2. Subtract the thickness of the Velcro 3. Create brackets. 3b. Bend brackets (Velcro mount) 4. Cut and adhere Velcro to brackets and backplate 5. Test fit 6. Glue brackets to inner side of front box 7. Final check Material: 2"x5" Cover strip material (or similar) 2"x2" White Industrial Strength Velcro (or similar) CA glue & Zap-A-Gap Tools: PPE (Safety gloves & glasses) Exacto knife Steel Ruler Head gun Wood (or similar) These are the boxes that will be reconfigured 1. Start by measuring the overall depth of the small and large, right, vertical boxes (with or without the back plate, it doesn't matter). NOTE: Depending how you trim your boxes your measurements may vary from mine. The depth of my boxes are a couple mm short of the once molded return edge. 1a. Subtract the plastic thickness of the front boxes and rear back plates NOTE: The plastic thickness is about 1mm, maybe 1.5mm Small box measured 18mm (the camera is a bit off in the image). Subtracting the plastic thickness I ended up with a 16mm distance between the front box inner and back plate inner walls. Large Box measured. 31mm. If you assembled the top portion of the box you'll need to take into account the plastic thickness in that area, which could be 2-3mm. Subtract the 1mm for the back plate and you have approximately 28mm distance between the front box inner and back plate walls. 2. Measure Velcro thickness - Using Velcro brand, 2" wide, White, Industrial Strength the thickness was found to be 4mm. 2a. After subtracting the Velcro thickness (4mm) the brackets will need to be the following lengths: Small box bracket - 12-13mm Large box bracket - 23-24mm 3. Cutting the Brackets - NOTE: Take the overall length of the bracket (above) and add 7-9mm. We are going to heat and bent this section to be used for the Velcro mount. Using cover strip material or something similar in strength, measure and cut the brackets accordingly. Width - 50mm or 2" Length - Small box bracket - 13mm Large box bracket - 24mm 3a. Cut into sections. 3b. Bend brackets. In this section It is best to have a vise or bench clamp you will need both hands free. Using a straight edge scribe the plastic once with a exacto knife at the bend line. Though not absolutely need it will assist in the bending. Place plastic between two pieces of wood (preferably with 90 degree corners) exposing the 7mm section. Leave around 1mm above the woods edge. Evenly heat the exposed section for about 10-20 seconds, or until pliable. Note: Have a third block of wood or something similar ready to do the bending. Using the 3rd block of wood fold over. Hold for about 10-20 seconds. You should be left with this. Measure to ensure the overall length is correct. Small box 4. Measure, cut and adhere Velcro to back plate and bend on bracket. Cut Velcro to 10mm in length. 4a. Adhere hook side of Velcro to back plate. When installing the Velcro on small box it will be placed at the top and bottom sections edges near the return edge. When installing on the large box place the Velcro about 2-3mm from the return edge on the rear back plate to account for the step in the front box. It should look similar to this when finished. 4b. Adhere loop side to Velcro to Bracket 5. Test fit before gluing Test fit the assemblies prior to gluing especially since you don't have any extra boxes in case you mess something up, right? Attach brackets to back plate via the Velcro. Small box Assemble Large box NOTE: Remember to take in account for the front box step. Success! Moving forward. 6. Gluing Remove back cover. Apply CA glue to bracket base. NOTE: Ensure the glue is only on the bracket mounting edge. Anywhere else you may inadvertently glue the back plate to the box. Carefully assemble Spray Zap-A-Gap around edges to accelerate the cure times in case glue may be spreading to areas it shouldn't. Small box Large box After dry remove back plate. At this point I suggest applying more glue to the mount area. Finished!

Hey Will, besides ANOVOS any of the vetted armor builders in North America will work, not to say European armor won't work it's just twice the price and might be a more of a hassle in the long run. Just to be clear most armor is built for mesomorph body types because that's screen accurate however, I've built and seen many others build any one of these armors to endomorph scale. Find something you like in your price range and go with it, whether it be ANOVOS or other. There's plenty of us here that will help guide you during your build process. BTW, I see your from the Inland Empire, I grew up in Riverside, good times back then. Cheers

This is great information and I do appreciate it however where was this information when the beta group was receiving their armor? I understand maybe you had to be more discreet prior to C7 but this new information makes this a whole new ball game for some like myself. You see I want my armor to be as accurate as possible, as I assume many other TFA builders do. I'm at a point in my build where I'm about to paint but I want it to be screen accurate as you say. My build now comes to a grinding halt, and I'm ok with that. I'm sure there will be others reading this that will be asking where were you and this information two months ago? Did you recently receive permission to release this new info? Just a few questions for my fellow imperial leader.

And sorry if it came across as calling your question but after looking at the screen clips you have assume others will call you out, something you shouldn't take offense to. Also if you'd seen my build thread you would know I have no fear of cutting my armor, and accuracy is main goal.

Well if it's actually there, and I'll take your work for it it is the question is will it be required for L2 or L3 when the time comes, do you have the templates for this and every other mod that's similar?

I guess I'm still confused, why would anyone want to do this to their chest plate when in the movie it's clearly not there?

Nice going Kirk. I agree with Art and Josh.

Very cool Clint, congrats sir!

Yea all the forearms are like that

Thanks for the electronics info Q and good eye regarding the holster mount, there may be some hope for the Anovos stock mount yet