ukswrath

Just like a fine tuned machine, excellent work you guys

1. Dremel with carbide cutter as seen here on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004UDJK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01 1a. First drill a hole then use the dremel and carbide bit to do the final trimming. BTW thanks for the reminder to add this to my list of tools. 2. PPG is one of many fillers that can be used. I would encourage you to contact a auto body parts supply in your area and ask if they carry the PPG if not what they recommend that is similar. As for toxicity, so many adhesives we use to assembly armor are toxic. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area or wear a respirator. Also when sanding, USE A RESPIRATOR people! Thanks for mentioning this Bryan, very important safety topics.

From what I've seen black Gaffers tape is also what appears to be used on the TD left cylinder, not paint or a decal.

Rumor has it Formica, textured black though I'm sure Disney will not be disclosing the mfg p/n anytime soon or, at all.

"You'll ride eternal, shiny and chrome" Immortal Joe

Technically your thighs should sit just above the shins and diamond plate. If it's not, in my experience there's not much you can do to keep the two from hitting each other. Get the thighs up and close as possible to the cod and posterior and the shins as far down on the boot to create that gap. Hope this helps

Fabric store

TD basic approval "Deployed", he'll be fine. If he decides to go SWAT then that may change depending on which TD he'll want to emulate .

Congrats Justin, welcome to the ranks trooper

Or it's just a lower edge cover strip, interesting find none the less.

Wow interesting how that looks like black gaffers tape

I purchased mine from a local automotive paint supply store for $25

Yep no issues at all. The crucial thing is to make sure apply filler to eliminate any porosity holes

Here's the pics, this is just after applying the Devcon Plastic Welder After sanding and filler

Nice build Michael, sorry I've been so preoccupied and missed most of it.

Hey Lucho we're still here waiting for you. Let us know if there's anything we can do to help you get approved.

Paint Preparation cont... ​Final preparation In this section I'll be taping off areas where either greeblies will be glued to later or to protect buckles from the paint. NOTE: If you choose to add the greeblies later as I've done tape off the greeblie areas so that they don't receive paint. These areas will be hidden by the greeblies. Starting with the spats At this point you can choose follow ANOVOS's or anyone else's instructions regarding applying spray can paint or have it professionally painted. UP NEXT! More belt accuracy updates, internal strapping and other connections.

Paint Preparation cont... Sanding & shaping filler. Sanding plastic gloss off First off sand away filler leaving only the valleys and divots. Using 400 grit wet & dry sand paper and a bucket of water I removed the filler as needed. 400 grit is the recommended choice of pre painting by most automotive finishers. When I needed to get in tight areas like the shin boxes i used a piece of cover strip mater and sand paper. Once the filler has been sanded away continue sanding off the ABS plastic shine. Primer and or paint will have a difficult time sticking to it if you don't. Here's some before and after pics. Bell before after Cod before after All components after sanding. Ready for primer. To be cont...

Paint Preparation cont... Building up yoke with Devcon plastic welder and applying filler Instead of using bondo or similar to fill in joints and areas that needed to be built up I elected to use the Devcon Plastic welder being it's strong and pliable enough to be used as a filler. Fortunately for me the only section that required this approach was the yoke. Everything else will receive spot filler. Regarding how to apply the spot filler. Either add filler to a spreader or apply directly on area to be filled. Using the spreader evenly spread out the filler. There's several Youtube videos that demonstrate how to apply fillers Devcon Plastic Welder Spreader Here's how it looks after the plastic welder and spot filler putty is applied. Once dry sand until you've achieved a smooth surface. How it looks after sanding. Ready for primer. Now for everything else apply spot filler. Let dry overnight. To be cont....

Paint Preparation So this week I prepped the armor for painting. My armor will be painted by a professional painter friend of mine. As mentioned in a earlier post I'm also painting all the greeblies separate from the armor to give the armor a overall cleaner look. This is the reason you haven't seen me glue them on yet. That'll be done after the panting work is completed. First order of business, using E6000 glue screws to the back of the greeblies, belt boxes, knee caps and hand plates (the screws will be remove later of course) This is done so the items can be place on a foam board for painting. Important SAFETY information reminder, PLEASE READ!! So many chemicals we use to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area in NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job. Thanks for reminding me of this Byranmc Once the glue has dried using scotch brite pads and/or wet & dry 400 grit sand paper remove the gloss from the plastic. Once done place these items on the foam boards.

Accuracy update cont.... Belt boxes cont.. After making the screen accurate rubber mounts for the center belt boxes and looking at some screen shots I realized both boxes are supposed to be the same thickness, mine were not. The box without the rib was 4mm shorter. This is how it's designed by ANOVOS, nice! The screen accurate boxes are equal in height in the screen shots, the box with the rib appeared to be most accurate, the box without was not. To resolve the issue I had to re-glue the base to the box, the box without the rib to be clear. Once dry measure and hacksaw the un-needed section off. First I measured the width of the Ribbed box which was around 12mm. BTW this is the edge of the original trim line so I'm assuming it's accurate, or as accurate we're going to get without actual specs.. Re-glue the box base, measure and hack off the section I didn't need. After a bit of sanding it's now the same height as it's brother.

Accuracy updates cont..... well sorta Ab boxes After sanding edging I preceeded to start the box mounting process by drilling 1/4" holes in the ab plate box sections. Afterwards In installed the 1/4" by 1-1/2" nylon bolt I'll be using to secure the ab boxes to the ab itself. Apply a bit of Devcon Plastic Welder on the head of each bolt. NOTE: To be clear, in a earlier post I used E6000 to apply adhere the bolts to the boxes. That was temporary, They are now being held on by the Devcon Plastic welder. Positioned the bolt on the hole. Installed the box and apply clamp. Ensure the bolt is firmly pressed against the box and aligned correctly. Once dry remove either install the nylon nut to secure or as I've done I removed the them for installation at a later date, after painting.

Alright, time for a massive photo update. Sorry for the delay, new AWESOME!! job duties tied me up a bit. Ab reinforcement 2 (ANOVIS really!?) So during a little paint prep work, which I'll get into a bit later I notice a small crack developing just outside one of the reinforced areas I spoke about earlier on during the reinforcement section. Long story short I decided to reinforce a 6" section on each side of the ad to give it even more support. I'm not going to go into huge detail explaining the steps however, I'll illustrate it with pics. I'm sure you can figure out the jest of it. Crack... Resolution Heat up the cover strip and form it to the ab BEFORE GLUING!! Apply and little Devcon welder glue, install and clamp (full cure time 45 minutes) Finished.... again.