zv288bot

Looks good, I would hold off on cutting the back of the shins until you get basic approval then talk to the GML to see what he/she recommends. They can give you a better idea of how much to remove. Not sure how much Mark agrees but I have give my shins, forearms, shoulder bells and butt plate all hot water baths to get them to fit me better. That's an option as well. Lot's of posts about it and even some tutorials I saw somewhere on here.

Yeah, nice and smooth and shiney! What paint did you use?

Looking good! Congrats on the washer and dryer hopefully you went with front loaders! [emoji14] Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Yeah, it's most likely too long and you will also need to place a washer on that end as well or it could eventually pull out. You'll have to play around with it and see what washers would work the best.

Interesting, where did you get the rivets from. For the ammo boxes that hang from the belt you will need to use pop rivets for that and the ones I bought from Home Depot worked pretty well with my crappy Harbor Freight gun. Did you take a picture? Just curious... Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

I used line 20 snaps because I wasn't sure I was gonna keep the belt. I will probably go with pop rivets when I fix it later.

Great job!! Let those clamps sit on the shoulder straps for at least two days if you are using e6000. I removed the clamps 24 hours later and I had a corner on a strap pop up. I reglued and reclamped and have had no issues since. Also, I only did coverstrips on all the outer sides. The shins scared me the first time I stretched them to put them on but again, I've had no issues at this stage in the game. Honestly, I believe it's just for esthetics, maybe not, who knows but it's definitely flexible and strong without. Lastly great to hear you are going for the gold with your build. Should be super easy for you. Just make sure you print the CRL and EI/Centurion checklist and you'll be good to go. I also looked for EI AP submission in my weight class for visual check. I am currently do so for Centurion as well as I need to work on getting my bells closer. Anyway, you are doing well, keep asking questions! Keep up the good work! Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Whoa Brother, are those glamour shots? Do you even have those in Canada? https://www.glamourshots.com/ Seriously, amazing pictures. I know it's your job but those are epic and sassy!

Most excellent! Velcro may be the solution for the belt. I was going to remove the line 20 snaps and replace them with line 24 snaps and see how that worked out but maybe I'll just slap some Velcro on it. Thanks for the ideas, see you Friday!

Do you have a link to the unit you purchased, please and thanks!

Ugh!! That's a good question. Not sure on the answer to that one. You should PM Tony (ukswrath) that picture and see what his thoughts are. The biceps look much better by the way. [emoji2] Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I did like 4 small dabs of e6000. I tried it on and off yesterday while testing my mic and had no issues.The velcro works amazing. I just did the square on the front and presto fix o, it's now a non issue. Thanks again for that Brother! Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

During my research, I never really came across a thread that spoke about how "tight" the armor should be in relation to your body at the ab/kidney section. When I built my kit I went for accuracy but comfort as well. I left about a half inch of return on the top and bottom of the kidney plate so I guess when I was sizing and felt that I pretty much assumed that was good enough. During my build I added the tab system to hold the right forward facing side in line. The issue I experience with my design was that any kind of major fast pace movement caused the two edges that butted together to slip and overlap. This would then shrink my waist size causing the TD side of my belt to immediately sag. At one point as I was leaving the troop, my belt unsnapped from the front as well and fell down around my knees. Thank goodness it was down the hall and no one saw me. The fix was pretty simple. I added a extra piece of ABS to the back of my bridge act as a stopper. Here are some pictures. Originally the tab went past the raised/bridge area but now with the stopper in place I needed to trim off about a 1/4 of an inch. Trimmed up and works great! Nice and flush.

Ok Marc, best of both worlds at least for me. I mounted the Aker to the chest plate with velcro. I also added some ABS scraps to the speaker side of the Aker to give the speaker a little room and it now is facing forward. Here is how it came out. I repeated the same process on the top as well. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Whoop Whoop! Congrats Angie!!

Here is a picture of someone submitting pictures of his AP kit for centurion next to your picture. I'm really just trying to illustrate the placement of the bicep. Sometimes it's more confusing to read it then to actually see it. Hope this helps. You can see how much lower his bicep sits and in doing so the black elastic attached to the bicep naturally moves closer to the top as you demonstrated in your previous post. Good luck!

Yes, biceps from the bells. Keep your bells as close to your shoulder straps as possible.The right side is definitely about right. You can fashion little plastic ABS clips to hold the straps from sliding too far up.

Looking good! You just need to drop those biceps down a bit and you'll be good to go!

Awe yeah! See you then man. Glad to hear things are working themselves out.

All right Martin, let's do this!

Tsk Tsk... no updates since June?! Lord Vader will not be pleased. I get it, I get it, you're all busy with trooping and roaming the galaxy looking for rebel sympathizers but EI and Centurion aren't gonna fall out of a cargo hold. Get to work, we are waiting!

Gotcha... Well you've done a good job so far!

How goes it Lady? Slow and steady wins the race.

Looks good! Nice and glossy! Are you gonna free hand the lines on the traps? Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Or 8.5 as stated. : ) Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk