tkrestonva

Speaking of boldly going where no Trekker has gone before ... Seen at DragonCon last weekend - this is what happens when you leave your fan table unattended after hours ... Well played, TNG crew.

It's an AP kit. Assuming you build it correctly, it will be quite acceptable.

Not a dumb question. Measure with your biceps flexed. If you measure straight-armed, unless you are a total toothpick you will inevitably underestimate your arm size. Unlike fabric, this stuff has no give.

Yep, IMO an old, second-hand FX kit would make a good choice for a Death trooper. I can think of no better way of recycling an old FX kit and giving it a new life - so to speak.

If this is where you live: http://en.wikipedia....London,_Ontario Then according to the Locator (top right of the main Legion website, section is titled "Find Your Local 501st ") this is your local garrison: http://www.501st.ca I met a few of them at C6 (Hi Andrea!). Awesome folks.

There are many options, varying in price, complexity, availability, performance, physical size, etc. You can get very creative with your sound effects if you choose to do so and have the electronics skills to make it happen. For example, in one of my old buckets I gutted a $10 Halloween voice changer (a full tutorial is available here on the forum) and rewired the sound effects to speakers embedded in my hovis. However, the two options that nowadays tend to rise to the top are the RomFX and the Aker/iComm. Having heard both in action, either would make an excellent choice.

If these are pop rivets, I was able to push them out (when I redid my sniper plate) simply by taking a hammer and pressing out against the shaft, until it was far enough out of the hole to grasp it via pliers and gently pull it out. No drill was needed.

This makes a lot of sense. I use the Aker MR1506 w iComm setup in VOX mode, along with an iPod playing a Legion-provided loop of stormtrooper radio chatter, wired into the Aker's auxiliary port. Everything fits neatly under my chestplate, with the wire to the mic running up my neckseal (making it virtually invisible) to the headset. I have to hold the mic between my teeth and lips while I'm putting my helmet on. Once my helmet is in place I then push out the mic so that it is properly positioned against my lips when in use. As long as I speak clearly (no mumbling), it works perfectly. Furthermore, from a normal speaking distance it is impossible to tell that the sound is coming from my chest - everyone I interact with seems to think the sound coming straight from my hovis. Like Rob said, I've found that turning the volume up to 50% provides the best sound volume balanced with the least amount of feedback.

Well said, Ingrid. You too, Javier.

I agree with Mathias. Imperial Crew is the easiest, fastest, & cheapest. Problem with being an IC is, no one but hard-core fans know who or what you are.

That's pretty cool. What's keeping it afloat?

[email protected]

I would send Jim Sauter (iComm/Aker guy) an email, asking if he's going to C6 and if so, can he bring a few extra units for sale. Alternatively, perhaps he can have it shipped to wherever you'll be staying in Orlando. Other than that, maybe you can find something at Radio Shack.

From one August birthday boy to another - Happy Birthday, Mathias!

Congratulations, and just in time for C6.

Email sent.

Still working that one out. Right now, the plan is to simply stay behind after the Legion photo and use the same area after the other costume groups leave, but it isn't firm yet.

Well done, Isaac.

Doesn't hurt to ask, the worst he can say is no. As an alternative, you can simply ask that the extra parts be added to your order for an additional fee.

Some say that metal snaps, E6000, and plastic are a bad combination. Personally, I haven't seen any issues with it. Still, since putting a piece of tape on the backside of the snap is an easy thing to do, might as well do it. After all, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of (potential) cure. As for durability, as long as it's densely woven, non-elastic webbing (and nylon webbing is typically by default non-stretchable), you shouldn't have any problems.

Instead of using plastic snap plates, a great alternative is to make your snap plates out of nylon webbing or some other non-stretch fabric. That way, it conforms to the shape of the armor part and remains in contact with no problems.

Yes, make the cover strip wider so it matches the width of the raised portion.

Get yourself a ROTJ-style helmet, as the Rubies helmet is unsalvageable. Mark (CFO guy in the above post) is your best source for that. The rest *can* be turned into an approvable ROTJ-style stormtrooper - as long as you are willing to invest what will end up being more time and money than it would take to buy and assemble a kit from one of the vendors here. It has been done on one or two occasions. Do a search on "Rubies Supreme", among other threads you will find this: http://www.whitearmo...=rubies supreme. This is one of those instances where the builder actually got it approved - at the time/money cost of more than what it would have taken to build a new suit from a kit (which he eventually did).

You say you don't have a lot of time, but you also say you want it ready by DragonCon. Those two goals seem contradictory to me. If you really want this kit finished and approved by DragonCon, you will need to be prepared to spend a lot of hours in the next few weeks getting it ready. Better to buy here than on ebay. Ebay will always be a roll of the dice, and I've found that to be true with pretty much anything being sold on ebay. Anytime you buy a partially or fully built suit, it has to be modified to fit your proportions. How much or how little depends on how closely built your body is to the seller's body. Usually there is no way to know for sure until you actually get the kit in your hands. Best case - only slight modification is required. Worst case - you have a completely useless kit. Think of these costumes in the same way you would think of a hand-made tailored suit. You are almost always better off starting from a new, unassembled kit. If I had to go with either of your options, I would pick the partially-assembled AM kit. Reason being (1) you say he's local to you, hence you have the unique opportunity to pay this person a visit and actually try on the kit before you buy, (2) it's only partially assembled - maybe he'll help you source the remaining parts and finish the assembly as an incentive to buy it. Since you're in GA, you should get with these guys: http://www.ga501st.com/ Having said that, the first photo in that first link is NOT what it will look like. That is a totally different kit, being modeled by one of our members in Italy, and assuming the seller didn't get permission to use the photo - it should be taken down.

Definitely open up the thighs more (in the back) and pull them up a bit more. Even if that means you end up using shims in the back of the thighs.