The5thHorseman

Nice progress. You're moving fast, that's good to see. How did you secured the shoulder bridges at the front? This thread has an interesting picture showing they actually used snaps to secured them:

Looks solid! Great job Walter. You must be quite exited right now, don't you? One thing i would say is you might be wearing your shoulder bells reversed. The one that has a flare a the bottom of the middle ridge is the left/hand shoulder bell: Left/hand shoulder bell:

There has never been clear evidences of that supposed chemical reaction, and i personally highly doubt it. The way the e6000 works (doesn't create heat, nor alters surfaces) makes it very unlikely to happen. However, i you really afraid of it i see nothing against using some duct tape to cover the metal section before gluing.

I'd say, avoid shims if you can, hence leave the extra material if you need it to close the thighs at the back.

1. The forearms are fully enclosed (glued at the front and back). But the shins are only glued at the front, and open at the back. 2. Yes, you can use stickers, but they need to recreate a handpainting feeling. Trooperbay has them if you look for some. 3. You are right. 4. No template here, just have a look at originals and try to match it. E.g:

Thank you very much Todd, i'm glad you figured how the shoulder bells are fastened to the shoulder bridges. That's something i was wondering for a while. And indeed, on the shoulder bridges there's no sign of rivets, or of the second part of the snap. I guess on this armor the snaps were directly glued to the bridge, but on others i think they were certainly secured via a rivet. Like on ANH, that snap is for securing the crotch strap:

Instead of snaps i rather lend towards rivets (a lot more ROTJ style), but they're definetely not glued or velcroed at the front.

On this one, i can see Velcro. However, i'd be interested in how the shoulder straps are fastened to the shoulder bridges if you can figure it.

Metal brackets and snap plates are the most common. You can. It's more of a ROTJ style but nothing prevents it for an ANH armor. There should be no nylon straps at all. Elastics all the way. There's not one correct answer to that but e6000 will work perfectly.

Definitely keep those if you think you will need them. To flatten them, look for a hobby iron like this: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2313-howto-abs-raw-edge-mod-how-to-turn-a-raw-edge-and-give-it-a-return/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/13-howto-make-a-return-edge-on-armor-using-a-heat-sealing-iron/

Awesome! This is exactly the thing. Just a question for you, are the velcro tabs on the backpack riveted too, or glued?

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Basically your local garrison is an association that you can subscribe to in addition to the 501st, and then you'll get your armor insured in case of break, stealing, etc... on an event. E.g: In the french garrison, each year members that are willing to can pay 10€ to the association to help funding it and get insurance for their gear.

The number of tubestripes varies from helmet to helmet, and can also vary from the right and left cheek on the same helmet, so just go with what looks good. Just stay around the twelve-thirteen area. Same helmet: 11 on the right, 12 on the left. About the return edges they seem very good to me. You can just knock off the one around the neck on the chest plate to give you a little more room in case it tends to choke you.

Do you have any padding on top of your head? If so, try to remove it completely. You don't really need padding here and it will bring the helmet down on you..

Neat job, as always. Have you found someone for the ESB handguards?

Don't you have any spare room at the top of your thigh to allow you to bring it up a little by just shortening the strapping? If not, i hope it won't hinder your application. Or maybe you could try to reduce the gap by lowering a bit the ab section by lengthening the strap between the chest and ab.

Looks amazing! I would just try to pull up your right thigh, but that's all. Everything else is perfect. And i guess it's not a surprise as i can see on your test fit pics that the Big Boss was overseeing your work (Mickey Mouse )

e6000 will work wonderfully. Just think about sanding the area on the thigh and the bond will be strong and fast.

Most of time people show pics of the finished work on the teeth but not of the process itself... http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28408-making-hero-out-of-ap/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27936-first-timer-ap-armor-build-thread/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23694-hero-bucket-build/

Very nice! Even without any weathering it's already looking superb. I'm looking forward to see the end result. Did you pattern your own duster? And i'm curious about the way you attached the backpack to your back, did you go with the velcro tabs?

Great to seee it progressing Walter, keep going! Unfortunately, you will need to either fill in or flatten the unused teeth of the frown for the Hero helmet to be acceptable.

Your drop boxes are perfect the way you made them on your diagram. However, i would move the end cap closer to the edge of the ABS ammo belt.

Looks superb! I'm pleased to finally see someone attempting the dovetail cut. And i'm pretty sure you'll make a success of it And don't worry, we do love pictures here. Especially when they're well taken like yours.

Steve mentioned it in your EIB thread: think about fixing your drop boxes alignment. The outer edge of the drop boxe should align with the outer edge of the ABS belt: And good job, updating you TD clips with larger ones. It definitely makes a difference .