SeanTX

So the LEFT (looking at the face my bad) fits fine. But the RIGHT side the bottom screw hole is to short or I believe there isn't enough material at the bottom for the holes to line up. If I pull it tight the curves seat ok but the holes will never line up. Should I just drill a new hole in both the helmet halves? I though maybe my ear was just trimmed wrong at the "factory". But i checked my brother's kit and it is the same size. So I imagine all the other 2.0 Builders are running into this problem. The holes on the helmet halves fit fine but might this also be causing the lean?

So my AM 2.0 ears came pre trimmed. Too much I think but I'll wait on input. LEFT front LEFT rear RIGHT front RIGHT rear

So I'm working on my abbs. And I've got the spacing measured I just don't know what to trim. I can take even amounts from the front and back and my seem will be on the pencil line. Or should I remove more from the back so the seem goes right down the middle of my side?

looking good

So I got my front sight post out. Pro-tip, use an allen wrench to remove the post before removing the dovetail mount. The post will hit the cover and bend. But before I finally visit my friend with a torch. How do I remove the bayonet mount? Where is it brazed and what will fall off?

If you look at the picture I shared you can see up front there is a plate that bends back in towards the reciever. this it the notch that the trigger group hods onto to stay in place. I think the template should have another square between the panels to bend in. Forgive my crude asci illustation. ______________ | | |___| /| |\ / |___| \ / \ / \ This is supposed to be where to two grip panels meet.

While i appreciate your outstanding customer service lets hold off for a while. I may not use it or i may order a steel tube from you. Rock on.

Mine was from numrich.com. each supplier seems to chop stuff differently. This and the barrel were the only peices cut everything else is flawless. Trigger group all works. And the front end is untouched.

These are some of the bubbles I was talking about. they are in the high point of every raised point. I don't know how you would fill and sand it. I think best to just ignore. But I don't really intend to use it.

You can have to many tool but not to many vice grips. They are great for bending consecutive angels you could never achieve on a traditional brake. And way more precise angles than a hammer and the edge of a 2x4.

I have a cheap harbor frieght brake to bend aluminum but these puppies are worth their weight in gold. http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-23/dp/B0000TFGFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427162539&sr=8-1&keywords=sheet+metal+vise+grips

This is what my braket looks like for reference.

Is there not enough material in the scope foot to drill through? So you don't have the stray poking out the bottom?

Since your skills are beyond mine. Is digging a channel in the underside of the aluminum braket an option? That way you can run the wire the length of the braket without seeing it.

Cool at least I was doing something right.

I didn't check his math. But it is a bit tricky to navigate the thread and find the final templates. The ones i used had a bunch of different paper options.

It took me a couple tries to get it scaled right but the bracket does match the real sterling i have. Thats just the only part that was chopped in half during demilling. The original wasn't folded. But the block in the front part is pretty seemless so folding isn't a bad idea to get the look right from the outside. I'll post pictures of my sterling later if you like.

Hmmm is there a better coolant that is readily available you recommend? The wd40 definitely sizzles off. I guess I'll do one hole and walk away. I just get caught up with success and keep moving to fast.

Very nice. I look forward to you making the grip plate. I have my aluminum sheet ready to try the template.

I burnt out the black Irwin unibit in the three pack. But I didn't try the titanium covered one. I guess I'll give it a go. The Wiki article on Rockwell hardness is not as strait forward as my simple mind requires. So is 95 harder than 89? My drill press is set to its slowest setting. I've just been squirting the bit with wd40 between holes.

Well I was able to drill the pilot holes easy enough. But when it was time to widen the holes with my stepped bits I ran into problems. They started wearing out after the second hole. Some didin't even make it to the full size before wearing out. I go about a third of the wholes partly drilled before I threw in the towel. I even ran to harbor frieght to get some more bits incase I could get them to last 5-10 holes. But alas I need a stronger bit. weaker steel or to just buy a steel tube. So this is a list of what Ive used. Maybe a better steel worker can find my error and point me in a better direction. Tube http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php Bits that don't work http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-2-pc-69088.html http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-3-4-quarter-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html http://www.lowes.com/pd_42692-281-15504PKSM_0__?productId=1209035&Ntt=irwin+bit&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dirwin%2Bbit&facetInfo= What a joke these were http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-stepless-drill-bits-66463.html

Do you remember what brand of stepped bit you used? I've been burning up cheapo harbor frieght bits.

So my plan for my E11 is to shoot for the moon with a steel pipe sterling reconstruction. but with any piece I can't make or foul up I have a full PP (DVH) aluminum pipe kit to fall back on. Or best case have two blasters. So parts Layout. I got all the grease out of it with a bath of simple green. And the Phoenix Props Messed up box photo just for dday's reference. Kit seems complete to me. Now an honest review of the kit. I feel I definitely got my money’s worth. But I really look forward to when all the DVH molds have found the same recycle bin that everyone has sent the old FX helmets to. Everything DDay has made himself is flawless. Some of the best casting I have ever seen. The scope, counter, and power cylinders are phenomenal. The pipe is amazing, not a tool mark on it. Maybe a little deburring on the inside but that’s nothing. And including all the hardware and not having us scour the globe for split rivets is awesome. Great kit overall. That said the DVH parts I have never seen so many air bubbles or flash in my modeling career. Some of the pieces I'm not really sure what I can do with. The grip has a tiny bubble at the top of every raised point of the diamond pattern. I'm not really sure how any amount of filler will fix that. But I don't want to bash the kit. I think it is great for the money but will be the be all end all when DDay has the capital to replace everything I'm sure he wants to. Back to my build. I got my steel pipe all covered with templates. Found at: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/ And after many tries to figure out printer and paper settings finally got it to the right size and glued on. Maybe tomorrow I'll try some drilling. With any luck it will look a third as nice as DDay's.

But now for the ears.I'm familiar enough with the slow shaving and using the profile tool. But I wasn't expecting the notch on top not to line up. What are our tolerances for removing material here?

And assembly was easy enough. I read so many posts that the dimples didn't line up that I was scared to drill but. I just said screw it and screwed it and it fit just fine.