skyone

new episode, the trigger button this is the most basic scheme for the trigger building i have found i installed it on 2 sheets of alluminium 0.8mm to avoid to install on the fragile resin for the same reason i glued a small bush (i cutted a small piece of an iternal pencil) into the trigger to avoid the resin touch it's working, and it's working well! i enjoy it! i wished an alluminium trigger as this but i cant wait one month for the delivery.. in the next episode i will cut the excess alluminium sheets and install into the pvc pipe

while i am still planning how to install the trigger, today i installed the selector button as for the trigger, i think i am going to pre-assemble between 2 metal sheet.

i am spending time on building the trigger with doppydoo resin kit, it's not easy thing..

it's not final and very messy you can get here http://arduino.cc/fo...c,109432.0.html i also found that the analog pins of Arduino can be used as digital pins, that i completely used. So now i can add another button using analog pin to switch from sound effects weapon to mp3 player with selected tracks.

just a small update: the cheaper sound module based on WT020-SD integrated circuit is not good for this project, too many issues with transmission protocol and low sound quality! this is my video test

thanks for the trust, i will consider that at the end of the project today i received the cheaper sound modules, they are wonderful smaller than the mp3 board i was using. This sound module support Micro-SD card (1gb max? to be verified) Now i must check on internet what kind of version i got (v.1.5 / 2012.01.12), if can be powered with 5v since it is written on the board, the right pin in/out scheme, if i got the serial version as excepted, ecc.. edit: i can't get this small board to work.. i turned the soldered pin to 5volts, connected all the required pins, added a 1gb microSD with sounds, and started a test sketch but it keeps dead. Have to spend more time on it, but now have to study for final exams at university..

i updated the first page with the list of the needed parts and the wiring scheme, they are almost final the arduino code is not yet final, i must add the option to play soundtracks or any other song when the selector is pressed more than 2 seconds. actually i cant work on blaster because i left my dremel to my friend who is helping me to assembly the ATA armor..

I hope you are getting fun with your arduino

this is the list of the components that i actually used the total cost is around 70 euro but if the new and cheaper mp3 module is going to work the total can be cutted off of 15 euro (55 euro tot.) the list doesn't include tools like solder, tin lead and paste and batteries (2x CR123A 3,7 volts lithium recharg. protected) #1 Arduino nano ATmega328P: 12 euro (should be installed on the back of the pvc pipe), pay attention 328 v.3.0 (that means 32kbytes of space for programming) avoid the 168 v.2.0! #1 mp3 high quality sd card module: 20 euro (should be installed inside the hengster replica) Note: there is a cheaper module that will be tested soon that cost only 5 euro (BE SURE THEY SEND THE SERIAL LINE MODE VERSION) #1 RBG 3 watt (Red Blue Green) superbright led (4,50 euro) NOTE the led must have all the 6 pin (anode and cathode) as the one linked #3 Constant Current Regulated LED Driver 1W 320~350mA as this: with minor mods (read here), is appropiate. 1,95 euro each #1 Mini Amplifier AMP Board 3W+3W DC 5V euro 2,58 ebayhong kong #2 speakers 3 watt that fit the E11 pipe as this (they fit a E11 pipe with inner diameter of 35mm) ,tested, good and loud sound. Euro 3,60 each #1 10 SEGMENT LED BAR GRAPH DISPLAY - Kingbright DC-7G3HWA to be used into the hengster counter 2 euro + shipping #5 resistors 30 ohmfor bar graph led 1,20 euro #4 resistors 1 kohm for output pins 1,20 euro blue led for on/off status 1,05 euro pin header wires3.60 euro male pin header 2,40 euro microswitch for trigger 1,70 euro microswitch for selector and Slide Switch for ON/OFF, around 2 euro one or two circuit boardswhere to solder the bar graphs and some connectors (to be cutted) 2 euro

and here the video WiP # 3 it's almost finished, only buttons will change and some code updates

probably it will be fine, it reads ADPCM 4 bits til 32khz, so that format you have to convert all the sound effects. Maybe it's even better, because MP3 format adds always a small delay at the beginning of each track. The manual datasheet says 3.0V to 3.8V DC voltage range, the arduino voltage output is 5volts, so you need to use a resistor. The manual datasheet includes the serial commands to send to the board to play/pause tracks, but there aren't examples strings. I just bought one from ebay just to test it. you can see my schematic here, updated with the 3 driversmodded as shown below to power the RGB leds (no transistors and no resistors! more power saving) see above, it should work, but the serial commands are different to the ones i am using in my code my code now is very messy. Now i must change all the firing because i added the final 3 RGB leds; then i must complete each signgle weapon to work as the others. here you can see just the part of the E11 firing, there are many links to functions that are not shown here (because functions stay at the end of the code): // WEAPONS if (buttonPushCounter == 0) { // -------------------------- WEAPON 0 --- BLASTECH E11 // fire led counter if (buttonPushCounter2 == 11 ) { statusCounter0 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 10 ) { statusCounter6 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 9 ) { statusCounter5 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 8 || buttonPushCounter2 == 7 ) { statusCounter4 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 6 || buttonPushCounter2 == 5) { statusCounter3 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 4 || buttonPushCounter2 == 3 ) { statusCounter2 (); } if (buttonPushCounter2 == 1 || buttonPushCounter2 == 2) { statusCounter1 (); } // end fire led counter buttonState2 = digitalRead(buttonPinFire); // shots count - read the pin value and save it if (buttonState2 == HIGH) { // control that input is HIGH (button pressed) if (buttonState2 != lastButtonState2) { // compare the buttonState to its previous state if (buttonState2 == HIGH) { // if the state has changed, increment the counter // if the current state is HIGH then the button // wend from off to on: buttonPushCounter2++; } // if the current state is LOW then the button // wend from on to off: } if (buttonPushCounter2 <= 11) { // AMMO AVAILABLE 10 // play file 000.mp3 in folder advert01 Serial.write(0x7E); Serial.write(0x07); Serial.write(0xA0); Serial.write(0x30); Serial.write(0x31); Serial.write(0x30); Serial.write(0x30); Serial.write(0x30); Serial.write(0x7E); delay(30); // pause to wait mp3 start digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); delay(150); // partial lenght of sound digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(180); // pause to wait the sound finish } if (buttonPushCounter2 >11) { // EMPTY AMMO statusCounter0 (); // play file 007.mp3 in folder advert02 EMPTY AMMO empty_ammo_sound (); empty_ammo_led (); } } // save the current state as the last state, //for next time through the loop lastButtonState2 = buttonState2; buttonStateAmmo1 = digitalRead(buttonPinReload); // AMMO RELOAD if (buttonStateAmmo1 == HIGH) { // ricarica munizioni buttonPushCounter2 = 1; // play file 007.mp3 in folder advert02 RELOAD AMMO reload_ammo_sound (); reloadAmmoLed (); } } and now the update! finally i got the RGB leds and the drivers; they are working fine out of the box, but for more efficiency and power saving, some mods are needed: the driver should no be powered from its terminals, but directly wiring anode and cathode of power supply to the capacitor (pay attention, anode and cathode must be exact, the anode is showed by the capacitor with a minus); in that way we bypass 4 diods, needed if the driver was powered by alternating current (AC); but we are going to power the driver with a battery (DC, direct current), so we can save the energy absorbed by diods. to dimming leds you should solder a wire to the terminal of its Integrated Circuit, as shown on the picture. that wire will be connected to the arduino PWM PIN the light emitted by leds is astonishing! wow! and with the RGB combinations we can manage to have the full color chart last update, the speakers: finally i have found the right speakers! from ebay hong kong they sell replacement speakers for a GM Radio, they are 35mm height, the perfect size of my pvc pipe (inner diamter: 35mm). 4 watt 16ohm, i bought 2 of them. Tested with the small amplifier, the sound is quite loud and good quality, because they are 4watt vs. 3watt amplifier output. well that's all for now, time to work on the blaster

thanks guys, i just moved the blue led on the external side of hengster counter in that way it is visible also when the blaster is folded and doesn't interfere with the bar graphs leds

Update: yesterday i got the mini audio amp 3w+3w and it's really effectinevess! very loud volume, can't use it at the max capacity! i am testing it on a small speaker, still waiting for the pair ordered from china to be delivered. seems a nuclear plant i also installed the "on/off status blue led" on the hengster counter but i am not conviced about the position, it's too bright even at the minimum brightness (that can be set via arduino); it disturbs the reading of the ammo bar graphs. So i am thinking to install it to another position...maybe on the external side of the counter

yea! it costed only 2 euro but it needs an accurate work with solder to make it works

i will post the scheme and the code when i have finished but if anybody in the meantime have started the same project i can help anyway. to complete the circuit and program i need the 3W RGB led from china, some leds and resistors.

the working progress: i added a led graph bar (7 green bars 3 red bars) to the hengster counter, syncronized with shots

or maybe install a microswitch inside the handle

since now i added 2 more sounds: 44 Magnum + reload M1 Garand + empty ammo ("peeng" sound) + reload both set only to single shot so far i am still waiting the parts coming from hong kong and china in the meantime if someone is interested to build the circuit you will need to follow this starter tutorial to connect the arduino nano to the PC, very easy http://www.ladyada.n...no/lesson0.html p.s. i am thinking to call this project "WIP BLASTER" because it's going to be a constant working in progress project since the code can be modded by everyone. EDIT: i updated the previous page with the components list after finding more information.

if you follow this topic i am setting up a kit for sound and light effects with a low cost and open source micro controller http://www.whitearmo...view=getnewpost the space needed: the mp3 mplayer and leds inside the hengster the 2 batteries inside the mag receiver the arduino micro controller, the 2 speakers, the little amp board inside the pipe the 2 microswitch (fire and selector) on the handle the reload lever should be replaced with a momentary on toggle switch when i am ready i will release the code to load inside the arduino and a small tutorial to build the circuit today i added the "44 magnum" fire with reload sound and the "M1 garand" with the empty "ping" and reload sound effects. I also added the single shot.

i also working to my pvc thing this is my 2nd pvc blaster experience and this time i went to a thicker pvc pipe because the grey one after cutting on rear will lose the circular shape a bit i also saved time and didn't complete the holes on the pipe because they will hidden by the rubber srtipes now i am working with forex on the mag receiver to house 2 Lr123A 3.6v lithum batteries i am still thinking wich part of the doppydoo blaster i will keep: most proably the handle. the scope and the folding stock.

ok but the e11 handle is quite large for a small sanding bit of a dremel

great work! i am just curious on how did you cut the resin

pay attention to the "ears", don't follow the pre-holes over the helmet, you must find yourself the right position of them

added led fade in effect at startup added led fade out effect on boba flame added led flashing effect on machine gun added multiple random tracks when the weapon is on: saber hit by blaster, chewbacca, jawa (that means you can get many similar sounds of the same selection) rationalized the script, now the space used on arduino is 8,4Kbyte / 32Kbyte this is the video of the WIP at this stage to complete the program it needs the main fire customized for each weapon and the status ammo leds set up, but for this i must wait for the components from china: leds, resistors, transistor and wires future plans: add a switch that assign the play/next/stop functions to the 3 buttons, in order to perform sound tracks like the imperial march or vader breath loop time to work on the blaster to make the house for the board now

thanks, sound added as 2nd in the list