skyone

i also working to my pvc thing this is my 2nd pvc blaster experience and this time i went to a thicker pvc pipe because the grey one after cutting on rear will lose the circular shape a bit i also saved time and didn't complete the holes on the pipe because they will hidden by the rubber srtipes now i am working with forex on the mag receiver to house 2 Lr123A 3.6v lithum batteries i am still thinking wich part of the doppydoo blaster i will keep: most proably the handle. the scope and the folding stock.

ok but the e11 handle is quite large for a small sanding bit of a dremel

great work! i am just curious on how did you cut the resin

pay attention to the "ears", don't follow the pre-holes over the helmet, you must find yourself the right position of them

added led fade in effect at startup added led fade out effect on boba flame added led flashing effect on machine gun added multiple random tracks when the weapon is on: saber hit by blaster, chewbacca, jawa (that means you can get many similar sounds of the same selection) rationalized the script, now the space used on arduino is 8,4Kbyte / 32Kbyte this is the video of the WIP at this stage to complete the program it needs the main fire customized for each weapon and the status ammo leds set up, but for this i must wait for the components from china: leds, resistors, transistor and wires future plans: add a switch that assign the play/next/stop functions to the 3 buttons, in order to perform sound tracks like the imperial march or vader breath loop time to work on the blaster to make the house for the board now

thanks, sound added as 2nd in the list

i am looking for the clean audio of the stun effect of the blaster (the blue fire), if someone can help will be appreciated.. (i looked in jedi knight game but this sound is missing) nope, link?

they shouldnt' be expensive but actually i don't know where to install on the E11 since the hengster box will be occupied by the mp3 board and some leds... I must see if there is enought space (and pin availables on the arduino board) at the end of the project fot a small screen to check ammo status and the number of the weapon selected.That would be useful. I will release the code and the circuit at the end so it can be improved and customized by everyone (the code of arduino is the same of C programming); maybe i will start a specific website for this project.

3rd button added with reload weapon function added sound effect when empty ammo is reached added sound effect when reloading the weapon added led status ON / OFF added sound at start-up added led status of empty ammo (this should be upgraded to 4 leds ammo status: Green-Green-Yellow-Red- to be installed in the hengster counter) since now i configured 10 weapons sound effects with ammo limit and 3 "fun effects" (suchs as chewbacca voice) unlimited rationalized the C script (10Kbyte used / 32Kbyte) changed the light effects to the plan:

today i worked on the program that controls arduino. I changed and fixed the program from yesterday, now everything works fine. Since now i added 11 sounds to be fired included chewbacca, a Carcano, a K98 and other rifles. All the sounds are fully customizable in the SD card. I also added the "out of ammo" effect after some shots fired. So i need to install another button to test the reload ammo. That i will fix tomorrow. Since now i used 5kb of the 32kb of the controller space.

i will share all the info when the project is completed, so everyone can experiment it on its blaster and/or contribute to make it better, as an open source project personally i am not a big fan of multiple leds in the barrel, it creates a light effect too far from the E11 firing as seen on the movie. I will limit mine to a single powerfull red led inside the nozzle.

[CONTINUE FROM FIRST POST] discontinued sound module used in this project (WT5001M02-28P) this is a new mp3 sound module that fit the project. This is the link to the ebay seller or even cheaper on aliexpress From description datasheet it plays mp3 files via serial RS232 mode (that means can be controlled easily trought arduino), powered by 5volts. It supports microSD cards max 2gb. it's cheaper and smaller (because it uses micro-sd instead of SD card) and works fine with arduino. The audio output linked to the miniamp is very loud and good (more than the older sound module) I just bought 1 for test, the serial code to command it is almost the same of the bigger module. So, if you are going to use this cheaper and smaller module you will need to modify the serial commands inside arduino code (new code released soon). For more information look here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/page-7#entry295206 NOTE: it's very important the order of the files saved in the microsd... Even if the files are named 001.mp3, 002.mp3 ecc... this sound module will read the files in the order they were added on the card, that means it will not respect the order by files name (and that means you can't call the mp3 files by name order with arduino code!). So, to avoid that, after you have finished to copy mp3 files on the sd, you need to use this software to sort the files order by name. DriveSort sorts the directory tables of a volume formated in FAT12/FAT16/FAT32. This sort orders the files in each folder according to their short or long names alphabetic order. http://www.anerty.net/software/file/DriveSort/ 1) select your microsd card 2) sort current folder 3) save 4) close the disk. Done!

FX BLASTER PROJECT based on Arduino microcontroller Do It Yourself! with just 15$ of electronics and your own ability bring life to your E11 blaster! (speakers and battery excluded) THIS POST IS MIRRORED AND KEEP UPDATED ONLY HERE: www.tkarena.it/fxblaster all schemes and pictures of this topic are mirrored here: facebook.com/fxblasterarduino Main purpose of the project: an accessible device that supports high powered RGB led and sound effects for E11 Blaster or any other prop/replica What is Arduino? Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software. Arduino boards are able to read inputs - light on a sensor, a finger on a button, or a Twitter message - and turn it into an output - activating a motor, turning on an LED, publishing something online. WIP Video Final Work Video Updated version (august 2014) Final Work Photos [/url] Main Features (not final) - SUPERBRIGHT 3 WATT RGB LED with customizable colors (256*256*256=16.777.216 possible colors!), blinking and fading effects - Preset sounds from Star Wars and our Planet weapons, included (but not only): E11-fire, E11-Stun, Boba Flame, AT AT fire, Xwing fire, TIE Fighter fire, chewbacca and jawas random voices, 44 Magnum, M1 Garand.. - Play any music tracks as well (darth vader march when trooping!) - SD Micro card support up 32GB of sound effects and music tracks! - 3W + 3W amplified audio power ouput to deal with the noise generated by a crowd of people - 3 switch buttons: Fire, Reload, Selector or Radio mode (when long pressed) - Radio Mode: 45 minutes of stormtrooper radio chat in loop, a 110Mb mp3 file made by TK2243 here, to keep going when hold the blaster in the holster - sound and light effect when empty ammo is reached - sound and light effect when reloading weapon - sound and light effect at start-up - random Vader welcome voices at start-up - green and red segments led bars as counter - long battery life ca.7 hours (battery suggested: Lithium 7,4V 1400mAh) - last but not least: Fart Machine! fart sounds as last weapon available (just for fun ) Change log from version 4.02L to 5.0 - Arduino Mini Pro replaced Arduino Mini - DFPlayer Sound module replaced WT5001 - code and scheme updated Change log from version 4.02H to 4.02L - added radio mode when holding the select button more than 3 seconds - added vader welcome sound at start up - corrected bugs - added WT5001M02-28P sound board support Costs Electronic modules (sellers mainly from China, free shipping) Arduino Pro Mini 5v At Mega 328 c.a. 2$ Arduino USB to TTL adapter c.a. 1,30$ DFPlayer mp3 sound board c.a. 2$ 3W mini amplifier c.a. 1,50$ 3x 350mA Constant Current Regulated LED Driver c.a. 1,35$ each 5V Positive Voltage Regulator 1,30$ Electronic Components Total: c.a. 12,15$ Leds 3W led RGB c.a. 1,5$ Led Bar Graph 10 Segments (3 red/7 green or any other colors) c.a. 2,50$ (i used this ) Leds Total: c.a. 3,50$ other components speakers 2x 35mm diameter 57mm 4W speakers 9$ batteries costs may vary, read below microswitch, resistors, wires, read below Main Scheme Power supply: 7,4V - 9V max Latest update scheme v.5.0.1 with DF PLAYER sound board (last update: oct. 9th 2017 ) tested and working mirror link Picture of the assembled boards (note: bar led counter not installed) Discontinued schemes: old scheme with WT5001 sound board List of Components the list doesn't include tools like solder, tin lead with paste and battery, sd card.. 1) ARDUINO #1 Arduino Pro Mini 5v At Mega 328 should be installed on the back of the pvc pipe, pay attention 328 version (that means 32kbytes of space for programming) avoid the 168 v.2.0! #1 Arduino USB to TTL adapter with a DTR pin, needed to load code to the board 2) SOUND MODULE #1 DFPlayer mp3 sound board A small and reliable sound module. Rread both MP3 and WAV files. Sound quality, build in amplifier, easy to handle (everything via serial commands, only TX and RX module to Arduino), When you put files on the card, you should first create one "MP3" folder (@ root level) and put your MP3 files in that folder. Audio file must be named 0001.mp3, 0002.mp3.....0255.mp3 (4 letters not 2 or 3 letters) Audio file names can have any characters after 4 digits, such as 0001_Bruno_Mars_Count_On Me.mp3 A ready to use mp3 list of sound files is available, just send me PM. It uses a micro SD card to store all MP3 files up 32GB! A library is needed in order the code works, just download it from here (click on Clone or Dowload button, then Download Zip) and unzip to your "documents\arduino\libraries" folder. like this C:\Users\YourName\Documents\Arduino\libraries\DFPlayer_Mini_Mp3 #1 5V Voltage Regulator This sound board is better associated with a 5V Positive Voltage Regulator to provide power in order to reduce EMI. I used a L7805CV. 1k ohm resistor between arduino's RX, TX and DFPlayer's Tx,Rx is also needed. For any other sound modules used in the past in this project, look the post n.3 3) SOUND AMPLIFIER AND SPEAKERS #1 3W+3W mini amplifier c.a. #2 speakers 3 watt or higher that fit the E11 pipe inner diameter and leave enought space to fit the cables. Speakers impendance best at 4ohm. i used this on my set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220734504352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 3) LED AND DRIVERS #1 RBG 3 watt (Red Blue Green) superbright led NOTE the led must have all the 6 pin (anode and cathode) as the one linked #3 350mA Constant Current Regulated LED Driver needed to power the RGB led and control colors by pwm output of Arduino #1 10 SEGMENT LED BAR GRAPH DISPLAY - i used Kingbright DC-7G3HWA 3 green + 7 red bars but you may use any other color scheme; it should find place inside the hengster counter, working as ammo status display 5) OTHER COMPONENTS (SWITCH, RESISTORS..) #5 resistors 30 ohm for bar graph led #3 resistors 1 kohm for output pins (pwm RGB led) #3 resistors 10 kohm for pull-down buttons (selector, trigger, reload) #1 resistor between 1 kohm and 10 kohm for TX/RX arduino/sound module as suggested in the manual of DF player mp3, in order to keep EMI low (i tested 10 kohm and maybe works better) #1 microswitch for trigger #1 momentary switch normally connected (normally close) for weapon selector (installing hole 6 mm) - u can get also a normally open but the code need mod #1 Momentary DPDT Normal OFF-(ON) TOGGLE SWITCH for weapon reload #1 Slide Switch for main power ON/OFF one or two circuit boards to manually resize, where to solder the bar graphs and some connectors 6) BATTERY any battery or set of batteries with total voltage between 7.4 and 12 volts 1) Camera lithium batteries On my project i used a lithium LP-E8 Phottix battery 7,4volts 1400mAh (last c.a. 7 hours), but its dimensions (55.00 x 36.98 x 15.40 mm) needed a little modification of the receiver (5 mm larger). Anyway i strongly recommend to use a lithium battery sold as Camera original battery replacement of a well known (but not too expensive) brand (as Phottix, Weiss..). Avoid unbranded oem batteries , i read many bad stories about them (explosions..) and the amperage often is not real. Actually, the smallest 7,4 volts camera battery found is the Nikon EN-EL1(Dimension:52.00x32.20x15.70 mm), 800mAh. Same suggestion for the charger (VHBW sells very cheap charger for most any lithium camera battery). As battery holder you may use a cutted charger plate, it's a safe and cheap choice and they sell for mostly any camera battery. 2) 2x18650 3,7v lithium batteries (7,4v) [not tested] Because of its size, good amperage and right voltage, you may also use 2x 18650 batteries in series (7,4volts total). As showed here, best brands are Panasonicand Sanyo. As battery holder you will need any 2x cells holder in series If you are going to use these batteries, probably you will place the arduino in the magazine receiver, and the cells inside the rear part of the pipe. In this way modification of the magazine/receiver size is not needed. 3) 2xCR123 lithium batteries 3,7v, series connected (7,4v) [not tested] 4) Airsoft battery A battery like this one might be an alternative if you already own a lipo charger. 7) SMOKE EFFECT (OPTIONAL) needed: - a smoke machine from RC car toys, sold for about 20 euro over ebay china (oil included) - a standard NPN transistor like 2n2222 the scheme with smoke machine feature: the arduino code download here (Servo Library already included in arduino) : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/page-18#entry521377 =========================================================================================================================================== [Download] Sound fonts: please send me a PM [Download] Code: Latest update: v.5.0 with DF PLAYER mp3 player support released, attached below Discontinued: v.4.0.2F with WT5001 mp3 player support, attached below you need the software from Arduino home page to edit and to upload it to the board. Final note English is not my motherlanguage, sorry for any mistake e11_ver_04_02L_WT5001.zip e11_ver_05_DFPlayer.zip

edited.

yep, i remember that, it was much easier to assembly

ok thanks

i noticed also from another user pic that the left tube looks smaller than the right one is that normal on ATA helmets? --------- (this picture is from other user)

edit.

right ear trimmed and installed, such a pain! i drilled three times before getting the best fit without ears my helmet would look like a groviera cheese ----------- now it's almost ready to get painted and stickers applied

very well done!

hello again, that was the main problem it was my mistake to drill the trace of the holes on the surface of the helmet without looking if was ok with the ears assembled. Now i understand that each assembly is a unique event and i cant follow previous traces. So i removed the ears, made new holes (lower) and now i fixed the gap! thanks for your suggestions now i have to trim the Right ear (the one that i assumed as Hero version) and install it as well. --------- -----------

thanks for the link the problem with my "ears" is that i had to cut exactly the shape given from the mold, because the extra part was raw, can't be included to give another shape ------- also, to my eyes, the 2 kit are both unique (no L/R) this the kit HERO (small rectangle) -----------

thanks for your info, i sent an email to ATA asking him a new ear kit. But i do remember to have cutted only the raw part from the shape.. Also, i don't understand why we have 2 kits of ears. There is any purpose in left and right? I installed the kit with the larger rectangle, even if they are both identical (no L/R) as for the brow tim, the difference is very little, it doesnt' affect to the gap left between the helmet and ears, i tested it.

no way to fill the gap, i also tryed with hot air but the gap is too large to fix and not nice to see, it can't hide the inside helmet borders i dont' understand what's wrong with ears, i trimmed them following the clear shape but it doesnt match then to the helmet. now i have 2 options - remove the ears from the helmet and use hot air to shape them to better match the helmet or - do a new trimm using the other ears kit, trying to trim less (but there is'nt much space between the clear shape and the raw area) ----------------

i hope so but i think i will have to shape with hot air anyway a bit because the ears' shape doesn't match the curve of the helmet may i know why we have 2 ears kit inside the box? they differs only for the rectangle size i think