Locitus

On a personal level I think it should be fine, sine it's a replica of a particular suit. But I think this one is up to Mason to make judgement on. It does kind of borderline into "Mr No Stripes"-teritory, although much less noticable than missing tube stripes.

Wow, "fore sale". Obviously I'm terrible at spelling during the morning hours.

Use the butt-joining method of closure instead of overlaping. Find some white spare plastic, like a "for sale" sign and cut out a strip as long as the thigh and glut it on top of the join.

You don't have to make a perfect circle. In fact, when it is perfect it looks weird. Just make the circle with a pencil first and try to paint within those lines. It helps a lot.

If anything, cutting the kindey plate is the least you need to worry about to make it all look good. The other parts may require more modding to make up for the extra trimming. So if the kindey is all you need to trim then great!

It looks good, and the price is fair. But he show two different versions on his description. Which one is it? I wouldn't buy unless I knew what version I would get (he shows both the ESB and ANH version)

http://www.doopydoos.com/star-wars-props-and-replicas-31-c.asp

Mainly arms and legs. The torso should ideally be kept intact if you can.

The holsters on trooperbay are from Vern if i recall correctly.

If it's still too big then remove what you need off the back while leaving the front untouched.

if you have the TM button plates then remove the vader dave buttons, fill the holes, and paint in accurate humbrol colours (French blue and dark admiral grey)

The specification today requires only weathering of the boots. I would personally rather see a split so either you have a weathered armour (battle style) and boots, or neither weathered (parade style).

I believe it was Mike, TD-4510, who came up with it. He uses it in his TE2 paint guides.

Yes. I'm inventing new standard units. Like 1 standard pencil width. I'll submit a request to the ISO committé to get it accepted as an international standard. Rich is right on this one too though, the stripes were not placed at a specific distance from the face, but all of then were higher up than yours.

Great attitude! Sadly some people take personal offene when we try to point them in the right direction. The tube stripes should sit at about a standard pencil width from the "face". So if you hold a pencil along the inner side of the cheek, your stripes should begin where the width of the pencil stops. So I think it's about 8-9 mm.

That you Rich for perfecly illustrating what I was trying to say, and even some more.

Before you sumbit for centurion though I have some suggestions. Your knee ammo belt is mounted way to high. It should be almost the reverse of how you've put it, with the rivet in the top corner rather than the bottom corner. It also looks like you've put vader dave buttoms on top of the TM ab buttom plates. Remove those and paint the button plates instead. And the 4 buttom plate left of the bigger ab button plate is trimmed too wide. Made it as narrow as the underlying raiser. Pull the drop boxes up a bit towards the belt. As little gap as possible. You helmet paint job is nice, and I applaude you for your efforts, but the vocoder could use some reworking, and the tube stripes should be closer to the face, not as much to the side on the cheek tubes.

Hi Darren, You already have ANH EIB. You can't get the same badge twice. Cheers, Mathias

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, or it's the reverse. I'm just saying ATA, or any screen derived suit will be fine for you, in terms of size.

ATA is a trustworthy supplier. Most parts will fit you fine, but you may need to trim some parts smaller to fit good. But that's better than having to do the reverse.

That's normal. Don't worry. In time, you'll start loving it because of these imperfections.

I have no intention of controling information, and 'm sorry if I offended you. However I do not see any point to adding on about the Mk II costume. It adds only confusion to anyone who's not already well aware of the differences. I believe that if you are interested, then you'll seek out that information when you want it instead of getting force fed with it. I'm calling this a "newbie" conversation because it is what is is in it's true meaning. A new beginner conversation. Basics. Mk II is a not suitable topic in a basic-level discussion IMHO. And in what way can you proove that the shoulder bell connection on the re-used ANH suits are different than in ANH? I do not mean the horizontal strap aross the bicep. Also, as far as we currently know, the carbon freeze chamber is the only place the Mk II is seen.

Don't be mixing in the Mk II into a "newbie" discussion. It adds nothing but confusion.

You are correct, there are very few differences between ESB and ANH armour. Just some subtle differences in the helmet paintjobs, decals vs hand painted, and different hand guards, holsster and blaster. The differenes are not so much in the armour, as in the accessories.

Those making jango fett costumes sometimes use it for their armour. Should be pretty straight forward to use. Rub it down on thing. let it dry for a short while. Buff it up to gloss.