gazmosis

Very nicely done so far!!!

Hey Rich!! Great looking armor Bud! I am jealous!!!! I have not seen your EIB request, but for centurion, I know you will need to picture close-ups of helmet paint details, and Sniper plate(no rivet). Sadly, though, I have heard of Centurion not being awarded based on CA boots. The seam down the front is not accurate. Painted chelsea boots or TK boots get the ribbon in that category. Anyway, for a bigger trooper, you give other bigger troopers like myself hope that I will look as good in my new armor as you do in yours!!! Good luck!!!

I am sorry, Terrell....he mentioned different size "squares" so I thought it came with hero and stunt. I stand corrected. A picture speaks a thousand words. What Terrell speaks is gospel!

ATA provides two sets: one for a stunt helmet and one for a hero helmet. As for the left and right sides there is a definate difference. Sadly, without them in front of me, I can't really point out which is which. As for trimming the ears, don't star by trimming on the mold marks. Every helmet is a little different. You need to go slow taking alittle material at a time untill you get to the fit you want. Here is a build thread of a helmet I did a while ago. I hope it helps.http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16570&hl=%2Bmtk+%2Bhelmet&fromsearch=1

I am seeing all sorts of red flags here. The main thing is that we don't want to see your helmet "FUBAR"ed. I know what you tried to do. You wanted the top of the ears to be right along the underside of the brow trim. However, the brow trim seems to be installed quite a bit higher than one normally sees it. As a result, the ear was positioned higher than it was inteded to be. There is NO amount of heating you are going to do to your helmet that will make up the gap on the front of the ear curves. Sadly, too much of the front of the ears was removed. You start trying to manipulate the already thinner plastic of the helmet with heat and disaster is imminant. My suggestion.....a rivet is easily drilled out. Reposition the cap-n-back a little lower on the face. It looks like you have about 1 1/4'' of space between the brow and the top of the eyeline. In viewing a buttload of trooper reference pics, very few helmets had more than 1/2'' gap in this area. Keeping in mind that the stunt helmets were slapped together for the shooting of the original film. There was obviously no real set standard for assembly in '76. We have the luxury of time here. By lowering that gap, that curve of the ear will come closer to the top of the cheek. It still looks like a bit enthusiastic amount of material was taken out of the front of the ears. You may need to ask ATA to send you some new ears. I would rather see you start there than to make a mistake with heating a very sensitive area of the helmet.

very...VERY NICE!!!!

I have 12 votl CPU fans in mine and they will not run long at all with AA or 9v. I needed to switch to Trustfire 3.7v Batteries. They are AA size . Put these in a 4X AA holder from Radio Shack and it will last you ALL DAY! I hooked it up before I went to bed. Came down in the morning, it was still going.

ok....now I am having problems....same "photo moved or deleted" sign coming up. I'll re-post pics Alright, Kids......I don't know if the website is just having an issue right now, but I tried to re-post and it immediately went to the "photo deleted" sign. I will try to re-post later. Now two minutes later...they're all back up again.

All photos on my end are showing up o.k. If there's an issue with others that hopefully chime in, I will re-post later.

in my opinion, you could probably cut that back plate even further back than you have marked. "Ray's" cut wins in my thoughts Kidney and ab tops should be level

What's happening on your end, Tray?

Per haps this was a case of "over thinking" a situation, but after purchasing a significant piece if Italian cowhide, I opted to try to construct what turned out to be a very attractive holster. To summerize, in looking at a particular screen grab from ANH, the popular tubular design of the holster just seemed a bit different to me than the screen grab. Using paper, I mocked up several holsters at reduced measurements until I was satisfied I acheived the look I was going for. I then increased those measurements. and transferred them to the leather. Luckily before cutting, I discovered that with thick leather, there is NO expanding of the holster to accomodate the blaster like there is with softer leathers. The shorter side of the holster(or the half that folds over) needed to be increased so that there was room for the blaster to slide in naturally. The new holster is pictured in the middle of two standard holsters, you can see the tapered effect I was going for. The super thick, rigid leather holds its shape being true to an actual holster. Whether or not this this is completely accurate, I don't know. I just know it looks fairly attractive and is comparably close to the screen grab. My blaster fits like a gun should and can be inserted without assistance. I hope you like it.-------------

I PM'ed him earlier...Thx Andy

With a solid source for the rear drop boxes I would hope that AP will update the armor. Just a suggestion.

That is SOOOOOOO sweet, Rob Thank you!!!

Having never worked with AP before, does the armor kit come with both front AND back drop box pieces? I helping a friend and she gave me her drop boxes and there's only the fronts.

I am just wondering, Why is it that canvas belt makers on these boards are making the belts 3 1/4 inches wide rather than 3? If I am not mistaken, the correct look for the canvas to ammo belt connection is the canvas belt size should match the space between the tapers at the end of the ammo belt. Just wondering??-----------

DO WHAT NICK DID!!!!

Enjoy the ride, Matt!!!!!

The only helmet that really has the room for a hard hat thing is the F/X lid. All other buckets are smaller and require only a small amount of padding installed.

you can always scream like a banshee for about 1/2 hour before a troop. That usually deepens my voice a few octaves.

Biceps it doesn't really matter much. Especially the top which is under your shoulder bell. The only real return edge on the shoulder is underneath. That is up to you...1/8 or 1/4 inch. Not too much, though.'

thank the Lord!!!! Next topic!!

Looks good, brother! I don't mean to pee in your cheerios, but that scope rail looks a little wide to me.

believe it or not, my intention was never to even fire it. If it was a simple fix, The first thing I was going to do IF I was to get one was to disable it. BUT, in order to do that properly, you need to bring it someplace, have them certify that it's a now a deac then they find out I don't FFA card and I go to jail......All for the sake of an E-11. That's dedication!!