TKittell

I've got one as well. I agree, it's the biggest bang for the buck. My only recommendation is to keep the volume moderate. The higher the volume, the better chance you'll get feedback. I also have mine behind my chest armor.

Looks like the bicep piece is just longer than its mating piece. You're correct, you're going to have to trim that extra length down to get it to match up with the other piece. That's strange to have it that far off. I haven't worked with this VT kit, but I'd go back to the drawing board to fix that mold if I were VT. Back to your fix. Don't sweat that too much. It'll be hard to see once the entire armor is on. In fact, your shoulder bell will be covering that edge. Just make sure it's comfortable for you. Round it out the best you can and sand down the rough edges to prevent damage to you and your black suit. You'll probably forget about that once everything is up and looking good. Have fun and take your time.

I second that. Then hit the edge with a bit of fine sandpaper and you're good to go.

I searched a long time for suspenders. Kohls had them.

Great job on your kit!

What ever Terry touches... turns to gold. Nice job!

Misogynistic!? Holy crap! I didn't know I needed a dictionary standing by to read these posts! mi·sog·y·nis·tic adj \mə-ˌsäj-ə-ˈnis-tik\ Definition of MISOGYNISTIC : having or showing a hatred and distrust of women

What's the SA Strapping System? I put in a search for "SA" and nothing came up. As for the color of velcro... get the white industrial strength stuff at Walmart. Previous posts are correct, you need velcro for your greaves. Otherwise you won't be able to get your feet through the openings. I also used velcro to position the elastic straps that hold my hand guards in place. I also use white velcro with my belts.

Yes. He was approved by the LMO on Sept 23. Here's a cut and paste of the LMO's approval: "202. (Name Removed) as Shadow Stormtrooper Status; Approved, but suggest adjust of fit of thighs towards the knee openings." Here are 2 of the submission photos showing the fabric belt. To answer your question, no that's not one of my belts (his name didn't come up in my records). But I'm glad to see it is possible to pass with a fabric belt none-the-less. If you could see one of my belts in person, we wouldn't be having this debate. I know I'm biased, but the belt I made looked pretty sweet with the polyester sheen to it and is not "unrealistic" that that material would/could be used.

I just looked at submision photos. I have no problem with the belt . I believe the photos are too dark to judge the costume. But you're right, it is a fabric belt.

I agree Paul. The cotton/polyester material I used looked realistic/canon to me. I'm sure the LMO wouldn't have a problem passing a TX with that belt. Plus, the majority of it is covered up anyway

Thanks. I just sent izzi a pm about the material.

Wow! What a firestorm of discussions I've started up. I was just helping out a fellow trooper with his request for a black belt. Personally, I think the fabric I used has a nice texture to it and the polyester blend gives it a nice sheen. It's definitely not a dull cotton fabric. But that's something Spec Ops would have to modify in their CRL, and not in my control. In the mean time, I'll be content helping out the troopers in white. I tried to join the Spec Ops Detachment to pose the question and they're no longer accepting new applications. What's up with that? BTW, you can get the black patent leather at JoAnns (to answer the question above).

Hey guys. I've started making black TX belts out of a cotton/polyester blend fabric with the plastic insterts the whole length of the belt (between the velcro ends). Check out the details on the "Ongoing Projects/Runs" belt thread. Rob "TKittell" Kittell $30 US, $35 International

Scott, You're welcome. Glad I could help.

I went with pop rivets, with the "ugly" ends facing outwards. That end is covered by the abs tabs. No one sees it.

I love the belt!

A couple things come to mind, all of which have to do with cutting your armor. The first thing I'd try is cutting your "shoulder" straps shorter at the top of your chest piece. That would raise up your chest piece when you connect it to the back OII straps. Or you could cut from the bottom up of the chest piece to raise it that way. After you cut, round the edges with some sandpaper and no one will know the difference. Give that a shot.

Just to follow up... I went with a hyperfirm from Lewis. I LOVE IT!

Matt, I'd be happy to send you one of my canvas belts for free. Just let me know the size you need. Oh, and an address. Rob

I used a chapstick end to form my mesh. They fit in the hovi openings perfectly. Before inserting, I put a thin layer of E-6000 on the inside of the hovis to keep the mesh in place once dry.

Here was my problem... I'd put my shin/calf armor over the top of my boots. Then, ten steps later my boots have popped out from under the front of my shins. Sure, you could get someone to push the leather back up under the armor. But ten steps later... it happened again! Some of you are questioning, "Is is really ten steps?" Yes, I scientifically reproduced this in labs. 9 out of 10 dentists also agreed. So here's the fix. Sew some nylon straps to the front of your boots with velcro sewn on the straps (facing outward). I took my boots into the local shoe repair store for this and had them insert the strap inbetween the 2 layers of leather (I have TKboots.com boots). Then take some of your sticky industrial strength velcro tape and tape it to the inside of your shin armor. At first, I tried using snaps... they hurt my shins like a SOB! I used "hook" velcro on the straps, and "loop" velcro on the armor to prevent the hooks from doing a number on my underarmor. Oh, I recommend sewing the velcro onto the nylon straps before you attatch the straps to your boots. It must have been a sight watching me man handle my boots as I sewed the velcro onto the straps. This fixes the problem of the shins riding up and it helps keep them from twisting. I did a jig in the new boots and armor and problem is fixed! Now, I can't take all the credit. Scott Magerfleisch gave me this advice, I just wanted to pass this along to the masses. I bought the 1 inch wide nylon straps at REI for 27 cents. That'll be the cheapest purchase from REI for me EVER! Now go out there and keep on troop'n!

I cut the length of my straps a bit. I cut inbetween the 2nd and 3rd (from the end) THIN tabs on one end only. Yea, glue the fronts down with a wee bit of E-6000 and let the backs flow. I first tried using industrial velcro, and I didn't like that.

Thanks Scott, Looks like my budget for a more accurate trooping blaster went up substantially.

So what's the hyperfirm made out of? Lewis sent me an email earlier about the hyperfirms. They're going for $250 which includes shipping. Is the difference between resin and rubber? worth the additional $125? Sounds like it might.