kevster

I used some rustoleum painters touch primer and had sanded it down with 320 grit. I did a little more painting, i'm thinking i might of had it a little to close and put too much paint in those spots.

Thats pretty funny.... I wonder what hes got to say though with that com in his hand. I can only imagine hearing " rebel scum" and "blast em!" in a donald duck voice haha

It may just be me but if its not I just wanted to bring it to light, but the main page for www.whitearmor.net is not loading. I can go strait to forum.whitearmor.net though. Is anyone else having this problem?

Well, thankfully its just those 2 spots. The primer was more than dry, it had been sitting for a few days before I sanded it and washed with water today, I'm thinking maybe it was a little water that hadn't dried yet. I dry off my pieces with a towel then let them sit for a little while before painting. Don't think it was too hot or cold either since I'm painting inside. Thanks for the info though guys, I couldn't quite find the right word for it and wrinkle is exactly what I was looking for.

I'm almost done with my painting and while i was doing my back piece this started to happen in these 2 little spots. This happened before just a little bit in the cap of the thermal detonator, thankfully it just sanded right off but so my question is what causes the paint to do this? I don't think its left over soap and I don't think its dirt. I sand my pieces, then wash them with lava soap, I then put on a coat of primer, sand and wash off with water. So this is going on with the rustoleum gloss white. Any idea why its clumping up like this?

Ya, that too, I was kind of thinking about that. It seems that it would be somewhat difficult since you would have to put your helmet on and then try and plug the mic into the Icomm. But when you're out on troops there's always people around to help. One thing I have noticed from playing around with the system, unless you are using the PTT system, the mic is very sensitive and the slightest knock on any part of the mic band will activate it. So I would think if you look down or up and the helmet hits against the armor, it might set it off. Hopefully the neck trim would reduce it enough that it wouldn't activate. Wouldn't want to jog somewhere and have your mic on the fritz haha.

Well most say that nothing beats the sound quality of the mic that comes with it. I haven't taken mine out trooping yet but if its sturdiness that you're worried about, you can bend the wire a bit to help it fit better, when I got mine it couldn't stay on my ears at all, but i just bent the ends closer together and I can look all around without the mic moving at all.

Best advice people could give you is when you get the pictures up. It doesn't need to be a perfect fit around your neck. Usually they are up in the front and kinda low in the back. Take a look at this one and see if its about the same.-

Looking good man, what is the front cap made out of? plexiglass? And pictures of the other side of the blaster would be good. A lot of parts are lined up using the ejection port and stuff like that.

Well, i've done a little bit more testing, and it looks like I just wasn't spraying on enough to begin with. If I painted it outside, it would be outside for a few hours before i would bring it in though. I would barely wet sand with the 600 grit and would go right through the paint on the corners of my drop box. But its getting to almost 100 degrees here in the day, and then at night humidity sky rockets lol. So painting outside is pretty much impossible for more ideal conditions. I'm going to try and work something out for painting in the spare room we have. I'm not too worried about having that absolute mirror finish shine on it, I'm finally happy that the paint is smoothing out instead of this! lol thanks for the posts guys!! I used a flashlight to show just how bad its been for me

For me, i've found as long as you get a thin layer over the whole surface on both sides, it will be just fine.

I've been testing it on smaller pieces but my paint keeps coming out horrible, nothing but orange peel. I'm sure its just too hot here right now and i'm going to try and paint in a spare bedroom to help reduce the orange peel. I can't find any grit higher than 600 at the stores around here so I was wondering if anyone has used some rubbing compound to great effect and then finished up with a polish. If so, what did ya'll use? Thanks!

Ya, some lucky punks from the 501st got to be there on stage when G4 was doing an interview about SWTOR. Well, they we're there but off to the sides of the stage, so the camera only got a few glimpses of them. As soon as they announced "coming up, the 501st is here with star wars the old rebulic" I immediately got on here to see if anyone posted in the field training section so I could curse them in all their glory lol.

Ya, i've seen those, i'm wondering, how well does it hold the spray can? Can you turn it all around or even have it on its side without the can falling out of it? I know you would never need to and it would be bad to try and paint with the can sideways, i'm just trying to figure out how strongly it holds onto the cans, especially since the rustoleum professional cans are bigger.

Never was into the wii from the beginning, and then playing it at a friends house just confirmed it lol. It was fun with friends, but thats what made it fun, friends. PS3 is the my drug of choice, i'm on all the time. Its kinda bad when the move and kenect come in and just blow even the 2nd more advanced version of wii's motion controls out of the water. You just cant quite get the experience of fallout, assassins creed etc on the WII as you can on the PS3 or 360, and thats what I want. Here's what I ended up doing to my PS3 because i love it so much. I took 2 fans from a burnt out power supply then cut into the shell and wired it into the PS3 to help cool it down lol.

Well, I am going to school to get into the video game industry. I've been watching every minute of E3 for years now. I'm really excited for elder scrolls skyrim and bioshock infinity.

Well as I recall and if i'm wrong I hope someone corrects me. Plastic weld will give you a stronger bond, but if you mess it up then it will be extremely difficult to take off and risk tearing your armor if you try and remove it. E-6000 is more than strong enough to use itself though and can be take off much safer but if you use too much and it comes in contact with the metal on the back of the snaps then it will create a little circular deformation on your armor but its pretty hard to see. I think how it happened for me is the clamps i used were very strong so when the glue reacted to the metal, the pressure from the clamp pushed the plastic in, but its very hard to notice really.

Well, hers the info from it. Apparently 1.37 pounds --------------

Yep, right here. Its pinned in basic training. ----- Or do you mean more of the actual hardware? like specific size rivets, screws, snaps etc...

Looks like a hybrid of clone and stormtrooper armor.

I have TK boots and love them. I'm wondering though, aren't there a few other kinds of boots out there that are right but just a different color and have to be dyed?

Maybe an epoxy? or a special ABS glue?

I got the TM holster template and made this. It's raw leather that I dyed black and hand sewed. Lastly, I added a pocket on the back just big enough to have a small thin wallet or a thick cell phone. So guys, how do ya'll think it looks? Any suggestions? Comments? This is my test holster from some old leather that my parents had and will be able to make a total of 4 with new leather that I bought that is a little thicker. Think anyone might be interested in buying the extra 3 that I could make? .... first I make power cylinders, now holsters.... hope Bondservant doesn't think I'm trying to take over his business just figured I could sell off my extra material.

Thanks for the fast responses guys. It's not the tops that bother me, its the inside of the thighs rubbing together. Sorry i'll try to explain it a bit better. You can see that the inside of the left thigh is bulged out instead of strait like the right thigh. Looking through the EIB pics, I saw some had that bulge on the left, some had it on the right. I'll try and go through and get more pics. I've been try to position the thighs around so they wont rub together so much without turning the thighs completely sideways I put my thighs side by side and they seem to be pretty much the same length, the right "pointy" thigh is maybe just a tab bit longer overall. But I don't mind that, what bothers me is that every step I take is a loud knock from that bulge hitting the right thigh. I'm just trying to find ways to minimize it. Looking through panda's link I see that the inside of the thighs have the same shape. I'm guessing that pulling the left thigh up a little bit will help the most so instead of knocking together, the left scrapes over the top of the right. I'm wondering if y'all have any more tricks to help though?

This is an ATA kit that I got back in October of 09. I've had it sitting to the side for a long time and am absolutely determined to get it knocked out finally. I had all the parts put together for quite a while and am disappointed in myself that its been so long that I noticed this. When I put the suit on to do test a fit I figured there would be some knocking of the parts no matter what I do, and after everything i've tried I couldn't get the thighs from knocking together with every step I take. I've looked through EIB pics and noticed that some are like this... but I don't think to this degree. Am I suppose to do something special to the thighs? It looks like in some of the EIB pics that had the swoop in one of their thighs would have that one a little higher than the other? Or am i suppose to cut the inside of the thighs way down? I'm hitting my head against a wall here for not noticing this for the longest time.