kevster

Ya, thats fine man, just as it says, as long as its pretty much 3 to 3.5 inches its ok. when you put the center of the canvas belt in the center of the ammo belt, theres only going to be 1/16" on the top and bottom so the canvas belt will look just as big as the main part of the ammo belt. Thats how mine is. The belt doesn't have to be the exact size of the space between the 45 degree cuts at the end if thats what you're asking. So keep your 3 1/4 inch belt, it will look just fine.

Well pretty much how it should all go is get it to fit you, somewhat snug but not tight. Get it to where you could get a finger or 2 between your body and the plastic. You don't want a bunch of space in your armor otherwise it will knock and wobble around.

Thanks guys. I guess my confusion came from matt getting EIB and THEN centurion in the same day. I was thinking he just put one up for centurion and since he got that then he automatically got an EIB number. Its probably been bugging Gazmosis a little, so i'll say i'm 6' and 130 so he finally knows I'm guessing there has but has there been 2 or more centurions who've had pictures together? And just in case, I went ahead and added the elastic straps.

Coming along great Martin! if you run out of material for snap plates, you can use nylon webbing too. Thats what I ended up doing and if I ever do another suit, I will probably only go with nylon webbing since it fits much flatter than snaps do. They conform to the curve of armor much better. If you do use nylon, just remember to melt the ends with a lighter to keep it from untangling.

WOO HOO!!! next stop centurion!

Sorry, forgot to put up an EIB with my centurion. Armor and hlemt: 09 ATA HIPS Blaster: PVC with Doopy Doo's resin kit, scratch built scope and cylinders Height: 6' Boots: TK Boots Canvas belt = Might Tank Hand Plates = Karin latex guards on rubber chemical gloves Electronics= Aker + iComm Neck Seal = Mighty Tank Holster = me Decals = all hand painted by me I redid the front pic with another camera that wasnt as good as the others because my armor just wasnt sitting right and looked funky but can redo a better one if needed. Sorry for the flash, the light just wasnt enough when i took the pictures and it had to be used for the pictures to come out but i'll be happy to redo them when its brighter out. and my gun http://s884.photobuc...kevstertk/E-11/

Usually a gray primer works good too. I used rustoleum painters touch gray primer. If you are planning on building your own gun and painting it instead of just buying one, you then can use the primer for the gun too.

But you can do EIB and centurion together right? I believe that's how matt black did it. Sorry. I will put up a thread in for EIB and just link it to here.

Oh right, sorry about that, and the S trim of my helmet. Thankfully i'm a bit higher than that.

Armor and hlemt: 09 ATA HIPS Blaster: PVC with Doopy Doo's resin kit, scratch built scope and cylinders Height: 6' Weight: might not believe me if i said lol Boots: TK Boots Canvas belt = Might Tank Hand Plates = Karin latex guards on rubber chemical gloves Electronics= Aker + iComm Neck Seal = Mighty Tank Holster = me Decals = all hand painted by me I redid the front pic with another camera that wasnt as good as the others because my armor just wasnt sitting right and looked funky but can redo a better one if needed. Sorry for the flash, the light just wasnt enough when i took the pictures and it had to be used for the pictures to come out but i'll be happy to redo them when its brighter out. and my gun http://s884.photobuc...kevstertk/E-11/

Thank you sir!

Well hello ms karin! Another thing is I was a little worried that the soapy water might damage the paint on your latex guards. I tried to stand the gloves up but with the guards they just don't sit up well for me. What I has as a little test is clamped the tip of the finger to a towel hanging over a rod with a paper towel stuffed inside so that way the sweat would drain down into the paper towel. That seemed to work ok, but I say the more idea the better!

Ya, i had kind of thought of something like that. You know there's those little moisture packets you get in dried food like beef jerky. Don't think there's really a place to buy those though and i rather not buy tons of beef jerky just to have some for my gloves, not to mention what kind of smells that might make...

Just got my approval numbers TK 4061. As soon as i get 501st access, centurion here i come!!! http://www.501st.com...hp?userID=13601

Well if the outside of it isnt damaged in any way, just the return edge then i would say keep it. You can always repair the crack with some cloth and e6000 behind it. People aren't really going to notice the wave on the return edge on the bottom of the bell. Heat guns can be touch and go, some people can use them but ive had nothing but problems when trying to use them but a hobby iron has done me good..

For those of us crazy enough to troop in rubber gloves, has anyone come up with some good ways to dry out the insides of the rubber chemical gloves? Turning them inside out isn't an option seeing as I have the latex hand guards glued to them now. Something that just popped into my head, maybe a few minutes with a hair dryer put inside the glove while its on its cool setting would work.

Well theres this. ---------

Well i'm not having a problem with my neck trim, but i am for my brow. My brow sags a little in the middle, and i was thinking of gluing it but I was thinking what might be good if I ever wanted to take the trim off and it hit me, double sided tape!!! My thoughts was take a strip of it, line up the middle of the tape with the edge of the plastic and press it on so that its on both sides of the plastic..... Then slip the trim on over that and I would think it would hold it pretty good..... its funny how much we use paint for our hi tech diagrams

Novus polish. You can buy some from trooperbay.com or you could check out a motorcycle shop. its been found at Harley Davidson dealerships here in the states and i think in the UK but not too sure.

Lens material is cheap to replace if needed. One thing you could possibly do is use some polish or rubbing compound on it. I had something similar happen to me on a plastic lens. I used some 1500 grit sandpaper and wet sanded very lightly then used some rubbing compound and it cleared it right up. If you have to get any of the stuff, you could probably just buy new lenses for the same price.

Ya, and we'll get a bunch of HD screen caps out of it as least.

The cap breaking is very unfortunate. Think it might of accidently been knocked down and put back? It looks like you used the thread locker to glue the caps on and an expanding glue could be the problem, but i'm guessing it doesn't expand at all..... So that broken cap is quite a mystery.

Should that be added as foot notes on here then- Thats what i went by so all my black is testors gloss, and its pretty glossy.

That reminds me, I think it had been mentioned on here and I looked it up. There is stuff like this if you really wanted one, probably cost no more than a liquid cooling system anyway. ---------

Not to mention the surface area you would have to stick it to would be your face, Don't think that would be too comfortable haha.