RogueTrooper

Looking Great there Will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get you some rest mate... you deserve it!!!

Great Job Robert!!! Awesome semi-dress rehearsal!!!! I know you are still working on your suit, just don't forget about the ab plate

There is a FISD Poll that shows which E-11 Blasters that are preferred:

Sorry to hear that, If you want one...I have seen them at Books a Million. And Ebay has a few:http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-Interactive-...=item45f0bc1e06

Hey Julie, that's wild!!!! fashion model robot, who woudathunk But I think this droid is a lot more fun:

WOW!! Rolf that's quite a collection.... I would love to see your TK TM and your first TD TM with your new TD TM as side by side comparison.

BTW Julie, what does this robot do... walk, talk, dance?? Shoots death lasers out it eyes???

You need to get yourself one and paint the silver to white so it match you even more

Keep up the great work Jon!!! Can't wait to see more of your build!!

It looks like to me, Mr. No Stripes was doing all the work around the Empire, and getting treated like donkey! <_< OK mates... All for Mr. No Stripes getting his fair shake!! Say I!! I'll drink to that

What I meant, was the number of tube stripes. The original screen used helmets did not always have even numbers on each side of the helmet.... For example: Han's helmet had 11 on on the right and 13 on the left. Luke's helmet had 13 on both sides. "Move along" helmet had 13 on the right and 16 on the left. "Stop that ship" helmet had 13 on both sides. The number of tube stripes range from 9 to 16. Also there's one TK on the Tantive IV missing tubestripes totally... But thats does not meet with 501st CRL So whether you do decals or paint the tube stripes on, how many stripes are you going to have and are you going to make them odd or even?

Hey Jon, when you put the tube stripes on are you going with even stripes or are you going more authentic with them like the original screen used lids?

Brilliant job Rolf!!!! I love that you kept the tube stripe authentic by having an odd number of stripes on oppsoites sides like the original sceen uesd helmets. .

Impressive, most impressive!!!!!!!! Keep up the great work, Jon!

You can retract your bid. Go to this Ebay link They have a contact tab and tell them after you placed the bid, you found out that this is a bootleg piece of merchandise and you do not want anything to do with it. Ebay frowns on people selling bootleg merchandise.

RED ALERT... RED ALERT... Maker of Things is a re-caster. His armor comes off of TE2 which is not condoned. His armor is not only a re-cast, but is also too thin (HIPS material). His is 0.060 gauge, which will not withstand a lot of trooping and his helmet is very poorly made with a lot of tears and cracks, which means he does not know his way around armor making. The thickness of armor that you want to look at is from 0.080 to 0.090 gauge, so you can withstand trooping.

What happen to the new Japanese robot? Did the Jawas get it.... :jawa: :jawa: Uuu!! tini!!!

BTW since you are new to the FISD, you might want to introduce yourself and tell us a little bit about yourself

Bump

Hey Alexis, With your size and build, you should be fine to wear about any armor. My first bit of advice is to stay away from Ebay. Most armor on Ebay is re-cast (re-cast is where someone takes someone elses work or armor and makes a copy or simulation and trys to pass it off as the original or as good. There are a lot of armor makers on this forum that have a good reputation for making a good product. You can find armor here that can usually meet anyones budget. Armor kits are like model car and plane kits. It depends on the skill level and how much time you want to put into it as to which kit you would choose. There are two different types of material that the armor is usually made from. ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene) and HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) also know just as Styrene. One of the other things that you need to look at, when trooping, is the thickness of the material. Most good suits of armor are made out of 0.080/2.0mm to 0.090/2.25mm material thickness. Any material thinner than the 0.080/2.0mm, will not stand a lot of trooping. Any material thicker than the 0.090/2.25mm material is running the risk of loosing major detail in the armor. The pros to the ABS are that it is very durable, solid color through, with a gloss finish that needs no sanding or painting. Minor abrasions or scratches (when trooping this will occur) can be easily buffed out with a rubbing compound, back to a gloss finish. The con to ABS is that it has more of a rubber content in the makeup of the material. ABS usually loses some of the sharpness/detail when casting. The pros to the HIPS (Styrene) is that it has less rubber content than the ABS. When casting, the HIPS makes for a sharper pull of the armor, giving more detail to edges. The con to the HIPS is it is not as durable as the ABS. When trooping, it is possible that after a few troops, the HIPS will get little stress cracks/tears around certain edges of the armor that will require repairs. Styrene armor will need sanding and painting, etc to make it accurate to the screen used armor. Some of the armor makers that you might want to look into are: TE2 (Trooper Expert generation 2), TM (Troopmasster), AP (AuthenticProps) and ATA (Affordable Trooper Armor). You can look through some of he builds and discussions on these different armor ktis and see which one you like the best.

Hey Rob, That video was the original cut/edit of the Cantina scene, but was never released until it was put on a CD-ROM in the mid to late 90's, called Star Wars Behind the Magic: The Insider's Guide to Star Wars. The on screen actor spoke Greedo's lines in english.. When they got ready to do the sound edits, they over dubbed the Rodians voice with a voice actor, who spoke Huttese. They did the same for Darth Vader. David Prowse spoke every line of Darth Vader's dialog on set and that was over dubbed with James Earl Jones voice. About 90% of the dialog was re-dubbed, because of noises that could not be removed from the original set audio track. Behind The Magic also had the cut footage of Luke and Biggs talking on Tatooine and Luke going to Tosche Station to show Fixer and his other friends the space battle that Luke saw while he was working on the moisture farm. It also had Luke working on a moisture vaporator while the space battle between Tantive IV and the Star Destroyer, Devastator was going on. The girl was not actually Han's girlfriend, but a prostitute (which was kinda of funny, since Han called all women "sweetheart") . If you also look, after Ben cuts the arm off of Ponda Baba (Walrus Man), you can tell that the hand is different. You are not halucinating, you probably saw this footage from the CD-ROM somewhere, and forgot about it. A little TD info: the actor, Anthoney Forrest, that played Fixer also was the Sandtrooper (aka: Move Along) that questioned Ben and Luke about the droids in Mos Eisley.

Brilliant work!! Alex

Great job!!!! Rob

looking great there TJ!! Since you said, you are doing an ANH version, are you going to paint the details ( Tube stripes, tear drops, trapezoids )

I have had this fan film on DVD for about 5 years now. I thought anyone who cares for Han Shooting first would enjoy this... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4...81608618831020# Han Solo is on trial for the infamous murder of Greedo in Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope. Throughout this trial the prosecution and defense provide evidence, counter-evidence, and double counter-evidence drawn from the 1977, 1997, and 2004 releases of the movie, in which the events in question are represented in three distinct ways. This is a must for all Star Wars fans (and for anyone interested in an extremely high-quality piece of filmmaking).