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So i looked through the threads above and anything else I could find for a WTF build but my shins do not seem to match up the same. Not sure why that is but i think I see what I should be looking for. The outer curve is longer and more gradual, while the inside is shorter and has a bit of a reverse curve above the ankle.

Thank you for meeting and discussing this on my behalf. I would do what you all request, but I won't lie I was sweating your decision. I hope that my efforts and examples will help others in the future to watch clamp dents. Oddly after I took the clamps off, the dents lessened just a little. It had to settle I guess. But I will move on to the next parts. Again, thank you for the quick posts to let me know so I don't get myself freaked out or working harder than I need to. I have a few more Centurion updates to do and I'll be posting those here soon. I'm on holiday break this week, so watch for more updates and questions. This trooper is moving forward. :)

Back Plate "Altoid Power Packs" This is a very new idea I will be trying out in 2026. I've had some batteries rigged in the back plate for a long time on troops but it was just haphazard velcroed pieces with no real order to it. I came up with an idea using Altoid tins. Note: I've not trooped with this yet. I have some attachment strength, positioning, and making sure they are not visible to work out, but I love how this came out. I will only troop with it if I have the front plate with my speaker and ABS bracket mounted on the chest plate to counterbalance the weight. It's not heavy on the back, but the power bank adds just enough to it. (I weighed the pieces, and the total weight is right at 16 ounces for all 4 pieces. I got a different USB Power bank that was even closer in size to the Altoid tins and only weighs 3.8 ounces.) First, I logged all the electronics I'm using which include: helmet fans, wireless mic, TRamp speaker, air pressure sound board in helmet, MP3 player on blaster, and sound fx/music speaker hidden in holster. I currently am using two 9 volts, two CR2032 batteries, one device charged with USB-C, and two devices charged by Micro USB. That helped me determine what I needed in my power packs. Here's what I did: Using Altoid tins, you can simply paint these black or white or whatever you like. I decided on black since it will go up against the black skin-diving suit. And it matched the color of the USB Power Bank. I then made some logo stickers to represent what is stored in each power pack. I wanted a symbol instead words or lettering. It looked neat. Then of course slapped the imperial cog decal on there on the right side. Each power pack stores what I need for power. You could make an internal liner in the case. But I found some folks on Etsy that make cheap 3D printed storage parts for Altoid cases. I got one the holds three 9 Volts batteries. Another one was a piece made for storing headphones - I used it for the two types of cables -Micro USB and a pigtail USB-C cable. The last case was a neat little mini tool chest that I use for brackets and screws but also for my CR-2032 batteries. Finally, I found a USB Power Bank that was as close in size to the Altoid tins as I could find. Then added the stickers to show was stored in each case. Next was the mounting. The Altoid tins work great for using earth magnets. I found small rectangular earth magnets on Amazon. It was so strong, I decided to wrap them in 6-inch strips of white duct tape to reduce the draw power. That worked great. I used two strips of 6-inch tape around them. If I troop and find it's a little loose, I'll drop one of the tape strips that wrap around the magnet to make them stronger. Small tests around the house don't seem to be a problem so far with the two layers of tape. I'll do a test troop in full armor at some point to verify though. I also need to see how much the screws/nuts rattle in the one tin. Test walking in the house didn't make much of a sound which surprised me. I used clear double sided Gorilla tape to mount the magnets on the interior of the black plate. Since these power packs are not too heavy, there's not a lot of weight for the magnets and Gorilla tape to hold the tins. I wanted it to be easy for someone to reach inside my back plate to easily remove the needed power pack without the tear and pull of velcro. However, I didn't want to use magnets on the USB Power Bank. I put just a little hook velcro on the back of the bank itself and then a piece of loop velcro in the back plate. rt Finally, the pieces in place. It looks awesome and everything is neat, organized, and labeled. I put a "safety hold" black rubber band around each tin. I don't think they'll pop open, but I thought that would be a good safety to have on them just in case. I really hope this works in my test troop. I'll post results once I give it a whirl. I did want to share this idea though. I'd love to see how others hide and store backup power and batteries on their armor.

These are looking very nice as renders. Can't wait to see what the pulls look like, along with the resin pieces. Going to be fantastic having another vendor for New Gen TK's

Been a min! I have been sidetracked with some other projects I had more motivation for. However over the past few months I have been slowly working on the Shore and by extension I have some more TK bits. Still working out some details with these but theyre well on their way. Ended up redoing the back plate and chest as I want 100% happy with proportions. I also have shins on the printer at the moment just designing the remaining cover strips. A lot more engineering goes into these ensureing tight tollerances and minimal gaps but the results so far are promising. Lots of resin cast parts coming for the details to get it nice and crisp! The arm was a nightmare getting the curves right. Everything kinda twists along the z axis like a slight helix rather than being totally straight like the OTTK. I think I have got the shape nice with the correct overlaps.

Hi Justin. Good news. The DO team thinks those dents are not a problem for Centurion level.

If the DO team is happy with overall placement then in my opinion (as a former DO) I would say those small marks should not prevent L3.

Hi, Justin. The alignment looks fine to me. I have no problem with the space between the knee and the shin. However, those dents worry me a little. We will definitely discuss it at the DO office, and the three of us will decide whether it is valid for Centurion level or not. Please give us a little time, as these days are complicated... Thank you!

Knowing I have missed the glory days of FISD memes... I can only crumble to the floor in despair

The Tub Lid Mirror This is probably the most popular idea I've had at troops. So many times, we have to use car reflections or random things to try and see if our costumes look ok during events. There isn't always a mirror. Amazon carries plastic mirrors that I velcroed a couple to the bottom of my tub lid. When you lean your tub lid up against a wall, you can angle it to see how you look! I use this so much. And I'll find many of my fellow trooper's hover over my way to do a review of their kit as well. I also don't have to worry about heavier real mirrors that might crack, shatter, or add weight to your lid. Especially if you use your lid as a shelf like I do too! Amazon.com: JUNEBRUSHS 4 Pack Self Adhesive Acrylic Mirrors, 12x 16 Inch Mirrors Tiles,Flexible Plastic Sheets Wall Stickers,2MM Thick Mirror,Frameless Small Mirror : Home & Kitchen

Secret Time Keeper I have found as I've gotten older, I don't make it as long on troops especially in my TK kit. Often on troops, I'll be looking for the time to know how much time is left in the troop. I don't want to be seen reaching for a cell phone, look for a clock, or having to ask. I just want to quickly see a clock but not have it be so visible. My wife came across finger watches on Amazon. I got a black one and tried it out during Halloween. It was great. Very hard to see from anyone else, but I just look at my hand real quick as if I had a watch on. I just turn it on the inside on my non blaster handle hand.