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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/07/2025 in Posts

  1. Super awesome, thanks everyone, especially Doggydoc (and team?) for the incredibly detailed descriptions on all the various changes to make before Centurion. Excited to be a part of the EI Honor Gallery!
    2 points
  2. That looks really nice! Very smooth yet with pleasant imperfections.
    2 points
  3. Sounds like my first time. But honestly yours is looking great. When you said that you cut out the teeth too much, do you mean too wide or from the back? They look ok to me unless you wanted some "depth" of plastic recessing. Even then it's only something you'll notice. If you ever see me in my armor I can point out a dozen places where I "messed up" and only I would notice. I think yours is well on track looking like a great Luke/Han Hero helmet. I'm also stunned how you were able to recover those tube stripes. Which template did you use? I used one from Trooperbay and it came out great. I let the paint dry for about a day first before removing. I'm currently helping some friends build their and it is SO much easier now. Your first time will feel very frustrating but you're pulling it off. Next armor you do is going to feel like a breeze. Keep it up
    2 points
  4. I've tried them all and Tony's really is the best. The little helmet speakers just sound *right*. They're a bit quiet for a large outdoor troop, so I reach for the chest mounted TRamp for those, but the @ukswrath set can't be beat for any other environment. https://ukswrathsspeciality.etsy.com/listing/525718278
    1 point
  5. I hope all had a nice new years eve! Thought i made a good deal with the shoes but it was a step bakwards I made another try to apply gold leaves and it turns out great, let mee hear your opinions before clear coat it
    1 point
  6. Congratulations fellow RWA trooper, you’ve done a great job! 🥳
    1 point
  7. FYI Icomm's can have issues with the internal battery, once flat it can no longer hold a charge, they tend to just click, replacing the battery or modifying it with an external battery may help.
    1 point
  8. The Hovi Mix got some paint too. This was at least straight forward and went without any mishaps. Did some distressed white on the rim of them to make them appear a bit used and scuffed as screen ones. Some last minute trimming and paint on the ears and screws.
    1 point
  9. Congratulations EIB #1087! Great to see another RS EI!
    1 point
  10. Congratulations and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery
    1 point
  11. More progress on the Triple D's AM Kit to replace my ATA kit.
    1 point
  12. No feedback issues at all, I have the mic secured in my helm too. They are loud enough to be able to be heard and have a conversation, but not overpowered like chest mounted speaker boxes can be. I have mine marked at about 3/4 volume on the dial, any louder and it sounds like the speakers might blow. I’m very happy with them, I don’t like talking in costume anyway, but it’s nice to have the ability to be heard just loud enough if I do.
    1 point
  13. Hi Colin, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Helmet Although this will not affect your approval at any level, the line of the screws securing the ears should follow the line of the rear of the trap above the ear. CRL L2: Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them References Your brow is positioned in a position more in line with the Hero helmets. The stunt helmets had the brow sitting a bit higher above the eyes. References Shoulder Armour Your left shoulder is sitting a bit farther away from the shoulder strap than the right one. Ideally, they should be the same distance apart. References Biceps and Forearms Your left biceps and forearm armour pieces are sitting a bit low compared to the right. A slight adjustment to strapping should be made to ensure that the left and right sides are sitting evenly. References Lower Leg Armour Keep an eye on the alignment of the closure of your lower leg armour when dressing, It is always a good idea to get someone to check all of the alignments once fully dressed as it is hard to visualize yourself once in costume. References *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Shoulder straps Your elastic holding down the shoulder straps is sitting in the middle of the shoulder strap. It should be moved back to the second or 3rd notch from the back to be more screen accurate. CRL L3: The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.  References Shoulder Armour For centurion level, you should bring your shoulder bells in closer to the shoulder straps. This should be a simple strapping adjustment. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. References Belt The corners of the ABS belt are trimmed on the proper 45 degree angle, but the corners of the trim should align with the edge of the canvas belt. This is a simple fix on the line shown below to align the 2 belt pieces properly. CRL L3: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. References Your belt should also come up slightly for Level 3 approval. The top portion of the ABS belt should sit just above or right at the bottom of the lowest button on the central abdominal panel. A bit of velcro between the belt and abdominal plate can be used to hold the belt in place. CRL L3: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. References The drop boxes should sit just below the ABS belt, yours are just a few mm too high and should be dropped a bit (especially on the left side), so they sit just below the ABS belt with no overlap. You may need to slightly lengthen your elastics suspending the belt boxes to achieve this. A drop of E6000 on the elastic holding the drop box is also a great way to keep it in place. CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. References Thigh Armour You will need to add a small bit of ABS paste or White Sugru to the small gaps in the back of the thigh pieces to hide the gap for Level 3 approval. CRL L3: Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. References Blaster Your blaster looks great but the wires running between the Hengstler counter and the power cylinders are a bit too excessive. Very few blasters actually had the wires on them and when they were present, they were much less dense. This can be corrected by removing some or all of the wire to be more screen accurate. References
    1 point
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