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@gmrhodes13 I knew you had some fantastic info stored up your sleeve ? I’ve actually bought a Hero TM helmet to build so I won’t be needing any modifications I think but your reference pictures and info is fantastic! Super grateful for the help. I think I’ve sourced all info on the lightsaber. There isn’t that much to go by more than 2 pictures I think that’s ”official”. Won’t be using the 3D print versions after some consideration as I feel both have good and bad things going with them. Also I love my lightsabers with aluminum hilts as it feels real and sturdy in your hand. So I’m going the route of modifying a hilt I’ve bought. I will start a separate build thread on the lightsaber as suggested ?

I'm very excited to see how this turns out

Update #10 - ‘with some modifications’ Thought about placing some kind of control panel below the drawers. Should be easy to make from wood with some knobs and greeblies. Then I got an old tablet in hands and things went a bit crazy. Sorry, had missed to take photos of some steps. Now what to do with that thing? Would be cool to have some Star Wars footage, looking like coming from Death Star security cameras or so. Hm, maybe that already exists?! On Youtube I indeed found a suitable clip. So I contacted the owner and asked for permission to use it. As chance had it, this was made by FISD member Daniel @SKUTCH and he agreed. Thanks again, Daniel. He looped a 3.5 mins sequence to a 25 mins clip. I chopped it down to 2.5 mins with no audio and transferred it to the tablet, where it can run in an endless loop. Wondering how it looks like? You got to wait a moment. Then it was time to fill that cabinet with everything I had gathered over the years plus the blasters, all decoration and stuff. I started at the bottom because some things are just stacked on top of each other. Ever since finding those device covers, I dreamed of how cool it would be to have the red and white lights blinking, like seen on many background props in the movies. Unfortunately I wasn‘t able to do that but luckily there is Dave @Cody42 in my Squad. He had offered to build custom-made circuit boards to fit behind the covers. It took some time, phone calls, measurements and bucks but he went all out and designed the following: Having no AC power outlet nearby the cabinet, he ingeniously made the circuit boards to work at 5V DC via Mini-USB port. That means they can be operated with a standard power bank. It is also possible to switch through various light modes, adjust the brightness and the interval time. And whatever you select remains stored in the memory, even when the power source gets disconnected. https://youtu.be/x7fIisnKrJM In the video you can see two temporary push buttons. These are required for configuration. For the final setup Dave had simply planned with my black switches, which were already present in both panels. Dave, I cannot thank you enough for this awesome work. Even after a few years now, everything is still working fine. And that‘s it. Project finally completed. The cabinet is completely filled with goodies and electronics. The 'surveillance' video looks very cool and the lamps change every 10 secs. As photos don‘t work well to show the final result, I simply filmed the cabinet from top to bottom. Enjoy.

So I’ve been toying with the idea for years and I’m finally in a place where I’m ready to get my first TK armor. I’ve been reading a lot on the blogs and all roads led here for advice. I’m hoping this group can get me off to a good start, really I’m looking for approved 501st quality armor and helmet, no recast … authentic design with quality plastics. I have a Lorica Segmentata, Roman armor already, I’ve made a lot of alterations to it over the years. Enough to say I’m very good with DIY and craftwork. thanks in advance!

I would really like to thank everyone for their great feedback and advice on how to make this more acceptable for approval. The only issue I have, is that I bought this through Dave's Darkside Depo and had it custom made. I have never done costuming before and I am afraid since I do not know quite how to make these adjustments, I may make things worse. I have started looking at videos on YouTube on how to work with the plastic formed molds, but seems my hands do not like to do what my brain is saying. I was hoping that I could speak to someone in person, that could point out what needs to be done or show me how to do it, so I can have a better understanding. Maybe even see a trooper armor in person, and then I would have no problem matching that as well. Thanks again for all of the great advice. I am sure, I will figure it out one way or another. 2025 will definitely be a journey. Sean S.

Much appreciated gmrhodes13!

Thank you Glen! This is very helpful.

Light saber info CRL image 3D files You can find a copy of Star Wars Insider #85 here https://archive.org/details/starwarsinsider_1_to_153_plus_specials/Star Wars Insider 085 (2006)/ References

Personally for your saber build I'd do another thread. The "hero" helmets for the original film were not just stunt helmets assembled differently. They were completely separate molds (softer pull/details) giving them a slightly different look used both for the hero TK and the TIE fighter pilot. If you were to make the ATA into a hero, I would suggest taking the time to iron out the 4th and 5th tooth indents leaving only the three as well as opening up the eyes slightly larger. My modified ATA helmet so the last teeth impressions were removed Some great references and information starwarshelmets.com: http://starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Found your other thread here

Spreadsheet on the differences between OTTK's https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

I got the fully commissioned suit from RS PropMasters so it came ready to wear. No assembly required. I have submitted my application and the required photos and am now awaiting approval. Thanks everyone for the encouragement and advice.

Update #04 - Measurements As promised, here is a little drawing from this rack. All measurements are provided in “cm” (1 cm = 0,3937 inch). Shape and dimensions are totally up to the builder. The only important thing is, the distance between the centers of two E-11 should be a minimum of 15 cm. One single blaster requires a width of 13 cm on the magazine side plus 7 cm on the other side. Each additional blaster adds 15 cm to the total width. The edges on the side panels were cut at 45 degrees, a-edges are 2 x 2 cm, b-edges are 4 x 4 cm.

Update #03 - Fully equipped Was lucky to get a few moments with sunny daylight to take some pictures... Okay, we're done. Thanks everybody for reading and commenting. Have a nice weekend

Update #02 - Painting, assembling & weathering As the blasters are black, I looked for a dark grey color and ended up with graphite-grey, RAL 7024. Hm, if painted in black or grey, this could look interesting. But I soon skipped the idea, because this rack is not symmetrical. When the blasters are inserted, the cog emphasizes that fact. And most of the time, the blasters will be there. Well, sometimes less is more… Next update will probably be the last one and shows the rack equipped with blasters and accessories. Still waiting for sunny daylight to take final pictures, but currently we only have cloudy winter days over here… Thanks for reading

Update #01 - Woodworks Went to my local DIY store, got wood-fiberboards (t = 16 mm) and a nice aluminum tube (OD = 25 mm). In case there is any interest, I can provide exact dimensions and measurements at the end of the build… The next 8 photos unfortunately have a strange color distortion because of the electric light in that room. The side panels looked a bit empty and boring, so I searched for an idea… Hope you like it so far. Please feel free to leave critics and comments.