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Thanks for those reference photos! Due to an interview, hand pain, and getting ready for a vacation, I've not spent much more time on this, but I hope to have a few more hours soon to plug away at this.

I like to use a pencil, mark in a few places then lay some masking tape as a guide. Not sure if you have painted or stickers, if it's stickers you can lift with a knife an pull off, if painted you could use some mineral turpentine and buff any residue with some polish

I think you will find that gap will be reduced once worn

Many thanks. I have stickers, so will give that a shot.

It's BBB day!!! Just ordered my boots and the chiffon. Once I get it coated in plastic dip I'm going to start drawing where I want the cracks and different sections.

Here's a photo of my shoulder straps as well https://photos.app.goo.gl/oNr1ozuqGPA2nwbw6

Thanks for reaching out to me Gerald! I appreciate being encouraged.

Ha! It was bad enough when I started obsessing over the different sabers, let alone this! ?

[snip] ...Heh. I actually spend last weekend watching ANH frame-by-frame looking at any scenes that had E-11s, so you certainly see how different the screen-used ones are. For me personally, it just looks more complete with the counter and the cylinders, but given the variations, there's certainly not single 'right way'. Thanks for that. Heck, even googling RS Props and resin E-11 has helped. I've now seen pics of the "Pugman" which wasn't a term I was familiar with, so I'm sure all the details will come into view. I've emailed the seller as well in case they knew more about it. But as I say, I suddenly became concerned today about the risk of ruining something by modifying it. I mean, sure, it's mine, and I can do with it what I want, but just want to check these things first.

I thought a lot more about the shoulder strap issue. And then I didn’t because I kept getting stuck. So I did some other stuff, like trimming the belt, just to feel like I was still making progress. Following the Billgram: I trimmed the length with the 3-5mm margin from the main blocks. I found that a metal straight edge with some scrap ABS sheet to build up to ~4mm worked well as a guide. I’ll do the same with the ammo belt when I get the replacement from WTF. That was a nice aside. The rest of the trimming I will do later. So, for the chest plate, I had a really difficult time finding symmetry so I could find a centerline and would have a decent reference to draw some cut lines. As the left side came up higher than the right, I thought I’d measure the side cut-outs and then use the difference as a guide for trimming the top left. I used this crude method of taping a USB cord along each edge: You can see that I marked the length by wrapping a piece of painter’s tape around the cord. “But wait,” you ask. “The lengths are the same!” Yes, they are. So much for that idea! Upon inspection, I did notice that the left side had a little bit more return edge leftover than the right side. So I trimmed that down too, but only gained maybe a few millimeters. I had a conversation with Walt about this shortness issue, too. He rightly pointed out (and it was pointed out here too) that there is nothing in the CRL about how many shoulder strap ribs overlap, but at the same time I don’t know that he felt that this chest plate was out of spec with his standards. The other WTF builds that Glen pointed out surely seem to have more material to work with. And the chest plate seems angled out where the straps connect. I have neither. I decided that enough is enough, and that I was just going to go forward and see what happens. I had to make some assumptions about what symmetry means here. I placed the chest plate on my table, and put the left side over the edge. I marked and cut: Getting the neck right was where I wanted to ensure some symmetry, too. With initial trimming, it had fit like this, where it was very uneven and biting into my neck: I took some measurements and decided that about a 150mm diameter circle was a good guide for trimming. It seemed to align with my neck and allowed space for the neck seal. A good tracing and cutting followed, and then a go at Glen’s ‘box’ method for fitting. With a 1-big + 2-small rib overlap, this is how it looks: Left side: Right side: I feel like the box is a bit too deep. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of overlap to be had. It was quite awkward trying to dry fit this onto the real me without help. Time to look for a mannequin torso or something. Then I will also be able to work more on shoulder strap shaping.