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My name is Brian, and I live in the U.S. state of Indiana. Some of you may know me from my FEM7 build thread in the non-approved costumes section of the forum. I really appreciate the help that has been provided, and as I mentioned in my thread, I certainly have been 'bitten by the bug,' so I am planning an approvable build! As such, I figure I would finally introduce myself here, so I can meet many of the others on this forum! I am aiming to buy a TK armor kit based on a style from the era of the original trilogy. I have mentioned the possibility of creating a shock trooper (and my understanding is that the armor can be made from ANH or ROTJ armor, but with different nuances), but I am still exploring other possibilities! I'll be exploring various threads across the forum, and welcome recommendations for threads to read!

I went ahead and contacted the Bloodfin Garrison with my questions. I'll let you all know what I find out!

This is super helpful! Although I am aiming for Level 1 certification, I did not think about the differences at this level of detail. Thank you! I think it would be best for me to go ahead and contact the Bloodfin Garrison and ask their thoughts, especially given the discretion the GML has. A good amount of my excitement over this today is that I have seen approvable ANH/ESB armor in my price range. The ROTJ armor seems harder to find. When it comes down to it, having an approved stormtrooper with the 501st is a little more important to me than that stormtrooper specifically being a shock trooper. Also, now that I know some folks convert their costumes over time opens up more possibilities! I thought my FEM7 would be the only stormtrooper costume I would make, but here I am taking about another build, so the future is full of new opportunities!

Thanks for sharing the information

The issue with a Shock Trooper is the game is based of a ROTJ stormtrooper although the helmet is ANH, there are some differences between ANH/ESB and a Shock Trooper, it's mainly for EIB or Centurion but to build it correctly some changes should be noted from the start of the build. You may also want to check with your GML (garrison membership liaison) as some can be stricter on base approval. Here's just a few items ANH/ESB is butt joined with covers strips, Shock Trooper is OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Overlap construction must be used. Butt joints and cover strips are not allowed. Butt joined ANH/ESB/HWT Overlapped - Shock Trooper/ROTJ Shoulder Armor No elastic around the bicep is present. Shoulder Straps OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Only 4 ridges of the shoulder straps overlap the chest plate. The front of the shoulder straps do not have a wide flat area only small ridges. Armor A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.

There should be no issues, measurements given are a general guide and being a few mm difference should be fine. The top rivets are slightly at different positions in this reference.

You’re spot on. The actual armor on ANH and ESB kits are the same, other than the differences you already mentioned. Therefor an ESB could be used for a Shock conversion. If I might pose a suggestion, you could start with an ANH Stunt, then convert to ESB (or even and ANH Hero), then finally to a Shock. And before the Shock you could even do a HWT! And in regards to the helmet, ESB differences are purely cosmetic. Same bones. Basically just change the frown paint. For higher levels of ESB approval you’ll also need decals on the helmet rather than hand-painting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've gotten confirmation from a reliable source, that the blue material backing the vents in the Kenobi helmets is actually a hard but somewhat flexible "blue urethane material" similar to "tupperware". So maybe injection molded? Just wanted to put that out there for anyone seeking accuracy.

Hello and welcome Brian! You have an exciting journey ahead of you! The shock trooper sure looks awesome so I really understand the pull towards that one! Are you 50/50 on which one you want or do you have anything that weighs heavier on the other? Anything we could help you out with?

Hello there, Brian! Awesome to hear about another victim of the bug. [emoji23] Below is a resource thread that you may find useful. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/ Also here’s and ANH to Shock conversion thread, by Jorge. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/52359-converting-anh-tk-to-shocktrooper/

Coming along well

All armor pieces have been painted!!! I painted the forearms, biceps, shoulders, kneecaps, shoulder straps, and smaller pieces! The boots were the only thing I did not get to today, so I plan to paint those tomorrow. I will be using fabric spray paint, rather than the paint shown in the photos above.

The only issue would be your elastic could be seen from the side if the sides open and they will look in the wrong position if you have them lower. Although some have been approved like that, here's an example of using two straps between the rivets The rivets you have should be fine to add just snaps too, no snap plate, I did the same thing with the cod. Here's how ukswrath did his, you can do this to the ab/kidney also 4c. Take a split rivet and cut it down. Test fit the rivet to the male snap.

You can modify an ANH to ESB, here's mine L3 approved Screen used OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. The M-19 scope is preferred. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.