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Yes, I use all of these. It does not make it any easier on the thighs, though. I’ll see if I can get some pictures taken to point it out and will share on here for assistance / suggestions. Thank you!

Came up recently in the PR group so update added of the 501st Citation pdf https://drive.google.com/file/d/17DsvI0NOYCvtFnvSuIlHsCqf3SixFL1Z/view?fbclid=IwAR0OC4njq7fZGAPiqA012om4vfDwlvf0wtyOgjGXk0JdVRCQLSXDqSe4EUU

Hello friends! It's been a few months since my last post as I took a break to finish another project. And with that out of the way I started tackling some of the issues listed above before seeking higher level approval. First I tacked the drop boxes to keep them straight. That was pretty simple. To fix my skinny wrist in the forearms I heated the right one to make it more oval. And I also bought these wrist sweatbands that seem to work well. Next was the repositioning the thermal detonator's control panel towards the rear. I opted to just make a new bracket. Here you can see the new one on the left. As I was testing the gloves with the wrist bands I noticed the glue let go on the flexible hand guard in some spots. That will need fixed. But then I think I'm ready for EI.

Yep I will be making sure of that. It’s going to be easier to do that with Dremel, so I will trim those back some more later with the Dremel and sanding down

Troop logs can be found here, but they are created and maintained by the members who complete the troops. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/13-field-training-exercises/

So at my last con I trooped at, Hacksmith Industries was there (known for producing the first real working lightsaber). I picked up one of their mini sabres and have been using it to seal the cut edges of the nylon and elastic straps. This makes my wife happy because I no longer have to steal her butane torch and I am very happy because it is just fun to turn this little guy on.

Looking good

I would agree on FROGTAPE, I use it myself. It has some glue tech or Paint Block as their patent states, that seals the edge so you don't get bleeds.

BICEPS I decided to start with the biceps for trimming as thankfully they are fairly hidden by the shoulder bells. I don’t see a lot of need to trim the shoulder bells as they are very minimal return edge as is. But we will see how they work out later. I marked the inside edge with a pencil to better visualize where to score. Next I used an exacto blade to score the curve. Note for those following along, don’t use too much force. Generally you just need to score a number of times and each pass will cut a little deeper. I will admit Dave’s armor is thick plastic. Which is both great and a pain for the scoring. I also made some cuts outward to make it easier to snap off segments. Now to just do the work to remove (as you see I started above Here’s some comparison images of before and after score and snap Before After Side by side After sanding the rough edge (wear a respirator when sanding. This stuff not only has a smell, but it’s also probably not good to inhale.) Proceeding on to the back part of the bicep. Trimming and sanding Before and After Next came the dreaded first time sizing and cutting. To be honest this made me worry the most because I’ve always had armor either fit too tight or not tight at all unless I made it so I was very concerned of doing it right. After researching some I opted to have it sit comfortably, but not too tight I wanted some loose area for my undershirt and for the flexing. After multiple back and forth steps of tape-test size. I eventually got it. I followed Dave’s method in the video (will get link and attach later) as well as the links that @gmrhodes13 shared below in this thread. Ultimately I found what worked best was a combination method, but I started by sizing the area around my elbow first. I needed to make sure that the pieces could slide up and over my larger than most forearms as well as still look good and not oversized. Once I was able to determine a size for the lower opening I started adjusting the upper opening until it was the right circumference around my arm. Once the tape was set holding in the spot I wanted. I eyeballed the “middle cut” spot and marked it on the bicep back armor on the inside. Then I marked the outside where the front pieces overlapped (this to reconnect in the right place later). I then separated the parts and drew a line on the back interior connecting the two marks. I scored and snapped those pieces off. I reconnected the two pieces with tape and putting the front edges with where I had previously marked on the back exterior so it was in the same position. And this time I marked on the inside where the back edges were so I knew where to cut the line so they would join up together. After I removed, and cut one edge first. The lined things up so they were flush like this On the rear side the front still overlapped the back (this was to make sure that things would be looking right with the cut down the center and then to tape and make sure the sizing was correct. After verification I separated and then cut the final front section off. I then connected both edges side by side and taped From here I slid them in place again to do a flex test The fit and comfort was good. And gave some space for my arm while still not being so large it would slide or flop around. So then it was the start of the inner cover strips I have E600, some clamps and a bunch of high strength magnets (just following the trends) I used a section I had cut off and put two lines of glue down both sides of the inner bicep seam. I placed the inner strip and clamped down both ends. I then connected magnets over the rest of the seam to hold the full strip down. Now I wait 24 hours. In the meantime I did the same with the other bicep, but haven’t glued anything as I need to pick up some more clamps tomorrow. 24 hours down and here’s the results of the first internal cover strip There will be some sanding and cleanup to do on this internal strip later, but I was pleased with it’s outcome. I started the other side on this bicep as well as the back internal strip of the left bicep And now the inner cover strips are in place and holding everything together ready for outer strips I don’t have my undershirt just yet, but I will see about photos then. Outer cover strips are now glued on to the biceps. I didn’t get a full picture, but I do have some pictures suited up Next thing I did to finish up the work on bicep armor pre anything strapping related was build and install the shoulder strap hook. The build process can be found in this comment: Here’s the installation I just added some e6000 onto the bottom bend and then clamp it in place for 24 hours. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm very excited to see what this month will bring in form of entries to the banner competition as well as some nice chats on the Discord server! Thank you everyone for all the hard work!

Great build so far! Question regarding paint. I've you're using Behr High Gloss (I know many have). What particular type of Behr paint is it? I've noticed they have quite a few. Oil based? Water based? And how will you apply? I'm assuming airbrush? If so, what kind? Thanks!

And just like that.... got the eyes cut out and a layer of primer on. The primer revealed a few imperfections that I am working on fixing, but all in all it is in pretty good shape. I love how it is starting to look! Can't wait to get it perfect and to start getting some paint on here!

UPDATE! I am done with measuring and ready to glue all both arm pieces, install all materials on the whole front, back, kidney and butt plate. Detonator has been completed. The hardest part seems to be the thighs for me. I’m so much shorter and smaller all around. I’ll be spending some time on the legs for sure.

On to the ears! For some, this is a stressful stage of an OT helemt build as you want to find a good fit. Over trimming is probably the biggest cause for concern, so i take the mind set of A little is a lot when shaping the ears to a good fit. Again with the trusty pencil, mark out a trim line that sits away from the mold lines. I use the tin sheers to take this excess off as the ABS is 2 mm thick. These make it easy going to remove what isn't needed. Note they are trimmed still away from those pencil lines. Lexan scissors with a curved blade are ideal for cutting around the shape of TK ears, they are slower going, but simple to carefully trim right up to the pencil marks I've now marked the ears with pencil lines following just below the mold /actual ear shape. Again, leave room to refine these as you begin to test fit, mark and readjust your trimming to get those ears fitting nicely to the sides of the helmet. This is where the process slows down. I shall take my time removing material and going through that test fit stage i mentioned before. More to come soon.

That does look better. Great work on this build best of luck with your approval.

It's official! TK-42221 has been approved!!! I know I have a few things to tidy up for the higher approval levels. So I'll start on that next. Thanks again everyone for the feedback!!