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Thanks Dan that’s a massive help. I will start work on that soon and keep the post updated.

Errr.. well spotted, note to self.. Less haste [emoji106][emoji3] Sent from my G3311 using Tapatalk

I borrowed a friends hole punches and used some contact plastic (it's for covering school books) and that seems to work. Paint white first so any bleed areas are filled with white then paint the grey and blue. I have also used a small piece of rubber hose, cut into thin pieces, hold down tight and then paint inside, did get a couple of little bleeds but easy to remove with a toothpick.

first one off the rotary cnc

Thanks, here I'll be ;-)

Hi Jay. Not looking too bad, although, as you say, a few tweaks will make it more accurate. Firstly, the bumps in the tears are accurate. Visible in one of the reference pictures below. The black lines around the traps, tears and ears are very thick. The ears are quite high, quite thick, and the angle of them could be improved with some work. Looking at your pictures, the natural cut/trim lines for the ears appears to be catching the light. I’ve highlighted these here: Thinning these out would allow the ears to drop a little, and be a more screen accurate. Ref below: Note the thickness of the “disc” on the ears: Tube stripes should be approximately a pencil width from the cheeks; Ref If you wanted to take the frown paint to the next level, check out some of the screen ref frowns. Many have the extra paint, extending past the un-drilled 5th hole. If you want some excellent reference pictures, check out www.starwarshelmets.com or the FISD picture gallery. Any questions you have, don’t hesitate to ask. Best wishes Dan :-)

Thank you, I may have to get a larger kidney plate if I go tighter I'm worried they will pop off during a troop, I will give it a go though..I'm out trooping today with it so I will see how it goes :) More pics: elastic inside bell, trimmed edges & blaster

Just so you don’t get held up you may also want to post a photo of the slotted section of the screws

Don't worry, I'll find them ;-) Thank you

Ok, after several attempts I re-positioned the belt. First it was a bit low. Then it was a bit lop-sided. Then it was a bit too high and covered too much of the blue button on the smaller panel. Then finally I got it not lop-sided and not covering too much of the button. Thoughts? Lighting is not the best because it's night time. Here's the first shot will all the gear on. Exciting!!!! My "to-do" list still includes painting the helmet screws, adding a bit of foam to the left thigh at the knee, and finishing the helmet fans and speaker.....but at this point, unless there are still some glaring mistakes, I could probably take some better photos and submit for pre-approval. Woohoo!!! Mark

Me on the left, Rob from RS in the middle and Paul from Tramp on the right. It was a joint Troopacoola and Tramp visit [emoji846] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I'm kind of shocked I didn't make one of these before, these are so awesome! I would love to make one for every costume I own! A duct tape mannequin is a great way to: - create a form that is a very close replication of your body shape - awesome way to display your armor - a great way to test sizing for parts, armor mods, etc. This is nothing super new, people have made duct tape mannequins for years. They started off in the seamstress / dress making hobby (people would use duct tape to create a torso dress form for tailoring their own outfits), and there's been many Legion members who have made these for their costumes. It's not that hard, it just takes time and some simple materials. Materials: 2 large rolls of duct tape (don't get the foil kind, just the regular silver kind PVC pipe (I used 3/4" pipe) 1 PVC cross connector 4 PVC "T" junctions 4 PVC 90 degree elbows PVC cement fiberfill / foam / pillow stuffing Scissors with round tips Old long sleeve top, pants (sweats will do) and socks A friend to help you 1. Get dressed in your old clothes. They should be somewhat thin / not too bulky 2. Go to the bathroom before proceeding (important!) 3. Stand in whatever pose you want. I chose to keep it neutral. If you want to bend the elbows for shooting / blaster poses, it's possible - just keep in mind it may be harder to dress the mannequin. Also, you (as the model) will get hot. Try not to move too much, and don't do this outside / in the sun. 4. Have your friend / helper start wrapping you in duct tape! Star from the bottom and work up. Avoid wrapping the tape "off the roll" if you do this, the tape will be very tight / uncomfortable and the mannequin will be smaller than you. Tear off sections of tape about 12" long and make sure to overlap half the previous strip as you work up. I chose to wrap the bottoms of my heels so that I can insert the mannequins legs into the boots. This is why you need to wear socks. Don't bother making the feet, it won't likely stand on it's own anyways. You can add a post / stand for it later, or simply lean it against a wall. 5. Continue wrapping the upper body. I found that I was slouching / leaning forward, so try to stand straight. Make sure to press the tape down evenly and smooth it out. 6. Make sure that the tape overlaps all the way around the back. I'm bringing sexy back! Yeah! 7. After you have wrapped one layer of tape, it should be good to cut the tape and extract your self. If you're bigger / taller, I would recommend 2 layers of tape - again, overlap the seams. Use scissors with round tips, or if you have some - medical safety scissors also work great (the ones for cutting bandages off patients). Cut a vertical seam down the back, across the back of both arms, and down the back of the legs. You should be able to step out easily. Here's my "body wrap" laid out on the floor. I have laid the skeleton / support frame on it. 8. Go get a drink of water to rehydrate. 9. Make your skeleton support. I used 3/4" PVC pipe. Copy the joints here or make your own. Use your own body as a guide for how long each should be. Notice that I bent the legs of the skeleton outwards to match the pose I was in. I didn't bother making bones / supports for the arms, as I wanted my arms to lay at the sides anyways, and it's just extra weight. Use PVC glue to attach each section of pipe. 10. Tape over the seams starting at the feet, and do about 12"-16" at a time. Tape one section, then stuff it with the fiberfill / foam, etc. You can buy it at fabric stores and even Walmart, it's used for stuffing pillows and such (my wife and I joked about how we should walk into one of those "Build a Bear" shops with my empty mannequin and say "I need this stuffed". Here's mine after stuffing. I threw some old worn out bike shorts on it since I want the under suit areas to show through as black (*TIP: simply cover the elbow, armpit, and knee areas with black gaffer tape or hockey tape! It will look like an undersuit without the cost! 11. Dress your new action figure! Many thanks to my wife for helping me out for a few hours. She thought this was pretty funny, but said it was very cool and turned out great!