Quinn_101 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Hey FISD, Currently I am waiting eagerly for my new armor from ATA. For those who know me, this would be my second attempt at a build (first one not being so great over all =/. I have noted to myself what I need to focus on such as return edges, attention to detail, assembly. I been reading and following Naatsirhc's build and found a unanswered question, for the ridges, Naatsirhc cut out 7/8 and 1 inch strips for the leg pieces. I believe that the 7/8 strips go on front and back of thigh and front shin, while the 1" is for the back of the shin only. I will be also trying for EIB status so any tips would be good. Thanks all, hope to start building soon. Quinn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirDenzington89 Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 ATA is a good kit man. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkTrooper[TK] Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 I built my ATA and it is a great kit. On my leg pieces I went 7/8 inches on the front and back of the thighs, as well as the front of the shins and 1 inch on the backs of the calves. It all depends on your physical built too. If you have "big" legs you're gonna HAVE TO have wider strips for your legs, arms, etc. Naatsirhc does have a great build thread. I used his as well as missingpieces'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naatsirhc[TK] Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Hey Quinn, Glad you picked the ATA kit. It is a tough build but well worth it. I did cut my leg strips at 7/8", front and back thighs and shin fronts. 1'' for the back of shins. It is the ridging on the actual armor that I was trying to get clarification on. Most kits out there have instruction booklets and ATA does not so that leaves a lot of room for guess work, but I found the help i needed through our FISD brothers. To help clarify, I will briefly go over what I did. I made all of the ridges on the front of the armor the correct width of the strips. It is on the back of the armor that I left the ridging width be wider based on my build. I am 6 feet and around 210 right now. Some people make there finishing strips wider in the back to match the ridge width, I used the correct strip width for both front and back of my entire armor. I believe this makes it look more consistant. I made this decision after asking for advice and received a reply from Terrell, so I went with the advice of the maker and am most pleased with the outcome of my armor. I hope this answered your question. I look forward to seeing your build, post lots of pictures and feel free to ask for help. Good luck! Naatsirhc PS- Thanks Daniel for the compliment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Ok this may be silly but I should have it clarify, Since you adding a strip on top of the armor, the sides of the armor should add up to equal the strip. EX: If you using a 1" strip for the back of the shins, it should be 1/2" on either sides of the shin part. correct? same goes for the 7/8" and the arm strips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naatsirhc[TK] Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Ok this may be silly but I should have it clarify, Since you adding a strip on top of the armor, the sides of the armor should add up to equal the strip. EX: If you using a 1" strip for the back of the shins, it should be 1/2" on either sides of the shin part. correct? same goes for the 7/8" and the arm strips. Jesse, The arm strips are 5/8", but yes the armor ridge once butted should equal the strip. All of my armor is done that way in the front, the back is wider with the correct strip width. My calves clam shell like the screen versions, but I used a small piece of velcro at the top to help keep them closed. I believe I have a bit more than a 1/2" hang over on the calf backs.Hope this helps, if you need pics to clarify that are different from my build thread I will be happy to post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 @naatsirhc yes that did very much and even answer my question about closing the shins in the back =D. one thing is I noticed on most ATA builds is that one of the thighs edges don't line up creating a sorta gap. I am not sure I want to take a blow gun to it since with my lack of true skill is lacking but is other wise not sure how to fix I was wondering how you fixed it or if it was not even present. Also what is that black 'paint' that you put inside of your helmet. I like the look of the finished product. P.s. I just noticed how your FISD name is your real name just scramed XP Thanks, Quinn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GosHawk[501st] Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Th black paint is actually truck bed liner spray, You can get some at autozone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naatsirhc[TK] Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 one thing is I noticed on most ATA builds is that one of the thighs edges don't line up creating a sorta gap. I am not sure I want to take a blow gun to it since with my lack of true skill is lacking but is other wise not sure how to fix I was wondering how you fixed it or if it was not even present. Also what is that black 'paint' that you put inside of your helmet. I like the look of the finished product. Jesse, I used a common BIC lighter to soften the styrene. I held it far enough away to not scorch the plastic, and only for a minute or less. I then used a clamp to bring the pieces in line with each other. It sounds harder than it is, I do not own a heat gun, I have been using the lighter method for a long time when bending and forming plastic parts. Here is a pic of the finished thigh back, notice left side is flat and right side has a ridge near the bottom. The strip hides a small gap that occurs when bring the parts in line. I wish I had a shot of that area before assembly. The Black paint is called plasti dip, it is a rubber coating that can be removed. It comes in spray and brushable, my painter got overspray on mine so it is not as clean as it once was. It is, most likely, easier to paint your bucket first then brush in the black where you want it. Hope all this makes sense. Look forward to seeing your build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks Christraan for your help so far, clearing up a lot of concerns and basic questions I have. I can't wait to that big o' box in front of my door step =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 (edited) Sorry for double post, But I was thinking of the other parts of the costume. I know where to get the belt and the holster, but blaster is something I have having trouble. I was thinking hyperfirm, but @ $200 is a little to much but a resin kit for a hasbro is a little to brittle for me. I saw that (i think) SD props were making them but now have stopped due to issues. I don't know of any other e-11 replicas execpt crushman, but i heard that wasn't a good route. Any advice? Edited February 22, 2010 by Quinn_101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirDenzington89 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Sorry for double post, But I was thinking of the other parts of the costume. I know where to get the belt and the holster, but blaster is something I have having trouble. I was thinking hyperfirm, but @ $200 is a little to much but a resin kit for a hasbro is a little to brittle for me. I saw that (i think) SD props were making them but now have stopped due to issues. I don't know of any other e-11 replicas execpt crushman, but i heard that wasn't a good route. Any advice? Honestly man, if you want something cheaper....id get a hasbro modded from Anrev on these boards. For being a hasbro it looks great, the one I got feels more solid than I'd think, I wouldnt throw it against a wall but it wont be falling apart any time soon, and its no $200 dollar hyperfilm. Good luck man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 Since we are talking about blaster for now, is it frowned appon for a TK to carry a DLT19? Its a just a personality thing I like to carry big guns no matter what (video games or paintball). I do realize it it cannon and I wouldn't have to get a holster (you can see it here ~1:04:20 when the search party is aboard the M.F.) I was looking at droopydo's but is there any cheaper that 180 USD? After some reseach, crushman is out of the question, too soft in details. BTW, ATA sent me a message today saying he will be starting my armor next =D I almost jumped out of my chair at school when I read that. =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 ANH troopers, as you pointed out, can carry a DLT-19 and still remain canon. So yes, it's permissible. As far as being approved w/o an E-11 and holster, that'll be up to your local GML. I'd still advise getting the E-11 and holster, which could be as inexpensive as a painted Hasbro with a second-hand holster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 "inexpensive as a painted Hasbro" In that case, I already have a hasbro. Sorry for newb question, but I thought it was required to mod it with some kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted February 28, 2010 Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 If you want to go EIB eventually with a Hasbro, you need to at least have the Hengstler counter and the proper T rack according to the EIB guidelines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 HAHA my ATA kit came yesterday =D but I do have a problem, where to get the curved lexan scissors? I have tried my local michaels, crafts smart fred myers. I am looking in the wrong places (scissors section and if they have one model section cause they have all the other cutting things there)? Every time i ask about it they point me to the scissors section. =/ On another note, it's soooo much better than my old MOT kit and it comes with everything for a better price. Hope to start it soon, Cheers, Quinn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synaptyx Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 I got my curved scissors on ebay for cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Thanks for the tip synaptyx. But I found out that you can get them at hobby stores. Looking forward to start trimming tonight after my senior project for H.S. =/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 (edited) Got started on trimming tonight, got done with cod/belly, butt, chest and back sections, hand-plates, knee-plate, and shoulder-straps. Need to sand down the edges to make them smooth. Wow, scissors make it easy! --------------- Edited May 22, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 From what I can see, your build is coming along nicely Jesse Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 One Question; Is it ok to split the cod piece from the abdomen section? Would that mess with getting EIB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 (edited) There are some EIBs that have split the cod piece from the ab section. Here is a post about it: ----------------- On 3/7/2010 at 5:41 AM, Quinn_101 said: One Question; Is it ok to split the cod piece from the abdomen section? Would that mess with getting EIB? Edited May 22, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinn_101 Posted March 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 Thanks Rogue, I think I will keep it one piece for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 I just use a normal pair of craft scissors. since armor likes srt8 cuts. the good ol box cutter and a page of 60 grit sandpaper always shape the armor just right. some modeling sanding film after that to take off the burrs. and with the ATA kit sanding is just a part of the whole thing! I'd personally go with the doopy doo's kit and the PVC pipe. it's strong, hollow, and available now. some T track and a doopy doos. the resin blaster I have is VERY STRONG for a resin kit. maker of things. I've dropp tested my resin kit and all it did was chip a very little. way easy to repair. and you will always like the looks of a more accurate blaster. the hasbro just never cuts it for me! my 50 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.