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A.P. Forearms Help!


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After a break. I am inspired to continue on with my AP build. I have enclosed pictures below. Right now I am stuck with the forearms. I am going to "Butseam" them. When trying to put the pieces together, I have a few questions and I need advice. Also, I know that I need to do do some trimming. Especially around the wrist and elbow. The questions that I have are ....

 

1. Should I line up the pieces from the back or the front? When I do one of the edges stick out. Was this a problem with other troopers who have assembled AP Kits?

 

2. When trimming out the wrist and elbow how far should I go to the edge?

 

3. I have a Hobby modeling Iron. After trimming. Should I iron the pieces before or after gluing?

 

4. Can I use a plastic sign ie, a "Beware of the dog" "For Sale" that you see in stores to cut up small strips to make the "Butseam"? The reason I want to save the trim strips for snaps and front trim.

 

5. If so which glue would you recomend? E6000, Plastic Weld or abs weld that you find in home improvement stores?

 

Thanks.

 

Andy

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Edited by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021
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I'd use the sheet of plastic that came with the kit to make all the exterior strips.

 

You can buy a cheap sheet of styrene at the hobby store for the snap plates. No one's going to see those, so they don't need to match exactly. I'd make sure to save the sheet AP supplied you with for those parts that are going to be outwardly visible.

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I'd use the sheet of plastic that came with the kit to make all the exterior strips.

 

You can buy a cheap sheet of styrene at the hobby store for the snap plates. No one's going to see those, so they don't need to match exactly. I'd make sure to save the sheet AP supplied you with for those parts that are going to be outwardly visible.

 

 

That is what I was going to do. The abs strips that AP supplied is going to be used for the outside strips. The question is the bonding of Styrene and Abs. I saw the signs at "Harbor Freight Tools for under $2.00.

 

Also "Harbor Freight Tools" is a good place to pick up supplies. I picked up a set of diamond files to file out my AP lid for a $1.93. A heat gun for $10.00. A good tip if you need tools if you are on a budget.

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I used styrene tabs on my ABS suit and it bonds up just fine. I used CA glue and a little bit of plastic welder, and the seal is airtight.

 

I'd recommend using e6000 instead of CA glue though-- in my experience CA dries too fast, and ends up being kind of uneven and brittle.

E6000 will even bond cloth to the ABS, and it's a little more forgiving, so you can slide parts around a bit if you don't get it spot on the first try; it's good stuff.

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As people have said, line it up at the wrist and use a heat sealing iron on the elbow ends, or if you don't want to do that - blend them as best you can with Dremel / sanding. The finishing strip covers most of it anyways.

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Yes never use the ABS strip's you get for any thing other then what their for. It's one of the near imposible thing's to do is match the shade of white ABS with plastic not supplied with the kit. Unlike some of the other TK kit's out there IE: FX ect, you get to cover any mishap's you may have after trimming to size. :o

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Hey Andy, I thought I'd reply in more detail. Here's what i did:

 

1. Should I line up the pieces from the back or the front? When I do one of the edges stick out. Was this a problem with other troopers who have assembled AP Kits?

 

Line up the forearms at the wrist, don't worry about the elbow. Since you have a heat sealing iron, you can re-shape it and cover the sides with strips.

 

2. When trimming out the wrist and elbow how far should I go to the edge?

I used Stukatrooper build as a reference, but you need to assemble it based on what fits you. If you're going to glue the forearm permanently closed, you need to make sure you can still fit your hand through the opening. This is what i did:

 

- Dremel the wrist opening to whatever return width you want to use

- If your forearms are big, I would suggest trimming the butt seam edges bigger, before you need to trim more. What you want to do is make the forearm fit your arm, but still have the wrist hole be big enough to fit your hand / glove through. That's why you need to Dremel the wrist opening / return first. I would suggest trimming the forearms on both edges to about 20mm on each side (that would mean 40mm total) and tape them together and put your arms through. Mine ended up just like Stukas: 12mm on each side and then butt seaming. Some people use 7-8mm per side because that makes the finishing strip look good, but you might not be able to get your hand through - or you need to glue one edge and use a velcro closure on the back side. It's up to you if you want the forearm glued or glued and velcro in the back.

 

3. I have a Hobby modeling Iron. After trimming. Should I iron the pieces before or after gluing?

Do it after gluing, so that you know how much the plastic needs to be manipulated. I'll post a picture up in my build thread (probably start posting it tomorrow) and you'll see. Many parts of mine were way out, and the back of one of my thighs was a perfect example. I glued it, then heat manipulated it, then Dremeled / sanded. Looks great afterwards!

 

4. Can I use a plastic sign ie, a "Beware of the dog" "For Sale" that you see in stores to cut up small strips to make the "Butseam"? The reason I want to save the trim strips for snaps and front trim.

As people suggested, use styrene for snaps and save the trim for the outside. I used slightly thicker styrene (2.0mm). Personally, I used the kit trimmings for making shims that I glued onto the inside of all the legs / arms. My inner shims run the length of the pieces, not just the beginning and end

 

5. If so which glue would you recomend? E6000, Plastic Weld or abs weld that you find in home improvement stores?

I used Plastic weld for the butt join, and E6000 for the inner shims and finishing strips. I used Plastic weld for the snap plates. See my tip in the Tips section on how to rivet snap plates for more surface contact. Works awesome!

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Hey Andy, I thought I'd reply in more detail. Here's what i did:

 

1. Should I line up the pieces from the back or the front? When I do one of the edges stick out. Was this a problem with other troopers who have assembled AP Kits?

 

Line up the forearms at the wrist, don't worry about the elbow. Since you have a heat sealing iron, you can re-shape it and cover the sides with strips.

 

2. When trimming out the wrist and elbow how far should I go to the edge?

I used Stukatrooper build as a reference, but you need to assemble it based on what fits you. If you're going to glue the forearm permanently closed, you need to make sure you can still fit your hand through the opening. This is what i did:

 

- Dremel the wrist opening to whatever return width you want to use

- If your forearms are big, I would suggest trimming the butt seam edges bigger, before you need to trim more. What you want to do is make the forearm fit your arm, but still have the wrist hole be big enough to fit your hand / glove through. That's why you need to Dremel the wrist opening / return first. I would suggest trimming the forearms on both edges to about 20mm on each side (that would mean 40mm total) and tape them together and put your arms through. Mine ended up just like Stukas: 12mm on each side and then butt seaming. Some people use 7-8mm per side because that makes the finishing strip look good, but you might not be able to get your hand through - or you need to glue one edge and use a velcro closure on the back side. It's up to you if you want the forearm glued or glued and velcro in the back.

 

3. I have a Hobby modeling Iron. After trimming. Should I iron the pieces before or after gluing?

Do it after gluing, so that you know how much the plastic needs to be manipulated. I'll post a picture up in my build thread (probably start posting it tomorrow) and you'll see. Many parts of mine were way out, and the back of one of my thighs was a perfect example. I glued it, then heat manipulated it, then Dremeled / sanded. Looks great afterwards!

 

4. Can I use a plastic sign ie, a "Beware of the dog" "For Sale" that you see in stores to cut up small strips to make the "Butseam"? The reason I want to save the trim strips for snaps and front trim.

As people suggested, use styrene for snaps and save the trim for the outside. I used slightly thicker styrene (2.0mm). Personally, I used the kit trimmings for making shims that I glued onto the inside of all the legs / arms. My inner shims run the length of the pieces, not just the beginning and end

 

5. If so which glue would you recomend? E6000, Plastic Weld or abs weld that you find in home improvement stores?

I used Plastic weld for the butt join, and E6000 for the inner shims and finishing strips. I used Plastic weld for the snap plates. See my tip in the Tips section on how to rivet snap plates for more surface contact. Works awesome!

 

 

Thanks for the tips. I will match them up at the wrists. The problem is that one side of the wrist matches up and the other side extends out further.

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AP forearms should be Trimmed with NO return.

 

The original parts were designed to overlap on one side with velcro.

the top side being butt mated and glued.

 

the finishing strips cover over the seam.

 

hope this helps.

 

my AP kit Build tutorial coming soon.

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AP forearms should be Trimmed with NO return.

 

The original parts were designed to overlap on one side with velcro.

the top side being butt mated and glued.

 

the finishing strips cover over the seam.

 

hope this helps.

 

my AP kit Build tutorial coming soon.

 

I have photos and can show you that I'm in the exact same position as you are

with these parts.... and I can show you how I'm fitting them

 

WITHOUT using an iron for forming parts that are not needed to form.

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I have photos and can show you that I'm in the exact same position as you are

with these parts.... and I can show you how I'm fitting them

 

WITHOUT using an iron for forming parts that are not needed to form.

 

So my AP is going to be here starting next week, I need to know -- will I need to mold/iron any pieces at all with this kit?

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I glued the side that matches up first. After it set overnight, I pulled the other side until it matched up (under tension). Put some tape on to hold it in position while I glued the butt seam with plastic weld. Then I did the inner shims with E6000. Yes, the top / elbow area comes out uneven, but I fixed it with the iron.

 

The AP might be designed with no return on the wrists, but personally, I chose to leave a very small return. I personally think the armor looks "thicker" and more substantial that way. Just opinion of course. :) Do it however you like.

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PGHtrooper21 said:

After a break. I am inspired to continue on with my AP build. I have enclosed pictures below. Right now I am stuck with the forearms. I am going to "Butseam" them. When trying to put the pieces together, I have a few questions and I need advice. Also, I know that I need to do do some trimming. Especially around the wrist and elbow. The questions that I have are ....

 

1. Should I line up the pieces from the back or the front? When I do one of the edges stick out. Was this a problem with other troopers who have assembled AP Kits?

 

2. When trimming out the wrist and elbow how far should I go to the edge?

 

3. I have a Hobby modeling Iron. After trimming. Should I iron the pieces before or after gluing?

 

4. Can I use a plastic sign ie, a "Beware of the dog" "For Sale" that you see in stores to cut up small strips to make the "Butseam"? The reason I want to save the trim strips for snaps and front trim.

 

5. If so which glue would you recomend? E6000, Plastic Weld or abs weld that you find in home improvement stores?

 

Thanks.

 

Andy

 

Thanks for the advice to all. After reading it I do believe I understand. Line up the side that is even,

glue, let sit and then work on the opposite side. At first I thought I cut the pieces wrong or it was warped?

 

Please post some pictures, I am goinng out today to get some styrene for the inside strips and buteam.

 

Andy

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021
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Line up the front, just cut as close as the edge as possible on the outer parts of the forearms, the part that has the squares, then cut the inner part so both when put toghetr create a nice tubular flat finish

NO LIP, then trim the back end. Here's a photo, please take note this was assembled using the easier overlap option, but it's the same for cutting the extremeties

 

Mark

 

 

Edited by ABS80
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Line up the front, just cut as close as the edge as possible on the outer parts of the forearms, the part that has the squares, then cut the inner part so both when put toghetr create a nice tubular flat finish

NO LIP, then trim the back end. Here's a photo, please take note this was assembled using the easier overlap option, but it's the same for cutting the extremeties

 

Mark

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I am heading out to "Harbor Freight Tools" for some plastic signs for the "INSIDE BUTSEAM". I will keep eveyone posted.

 

Andy

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I have photos of the AP forearms and I've used the inside buttseam method.

 

you line up the inside part of the forearm at the wrist, and just let the seams matchup.

 

if you've trimmed carefully off the original parts of the form, you can cut those

into the buttseams that you need.

 

I kept all my original trim parts with each piece to make the inner buttseam as

a stronger base for my E6000 glue.

 

here''s a few photos along the way

 

tn_gallery_2173_228_3208.jpg

lined up at the wrist ready for small strip of plastic from the trim on the inside.

 

tn_gallery_2173_228_8599.jpg

from above, lined up at the wrist.

 

tn_gallery_2173_228_15702.jpg

end view

 

 

hope this helps.

 

I"ll have photos up of the finished versions for your review.

 

vern

 

Troopers helping troopers!

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