Themaninthesuitcase Denuo Novo TLJ Build

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Let's try this again.  Trying to 3D print a suit didn't work out so I made use of the May 4th sale this year and got a DN kit.

 

 

Helmet: Denuo Novo TLJ Standard Helmet

Armour: Denuo Novo TLJ

Neck Seal: Denuo Novo

Gloves: Imperial Boots

Boots: Imperial Boots 

 

The fact I have IB boots and gloves, shows how long I have had them as they rebranded and then stopped selling the gloves!

 

I picked the standard helmet over the premier, partly due to cost but also to save the weight one my neck. I know the premier is slightly ,more accurate but I also want to be able to wear it all day.

 

I still have some decisions to make. I am definitely aiming for EIB, but centurion means a rubber gaskets so that will need to be looked into.

 

Glory to the First Order!

 

 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

The DN TD is a pretty hefty lump of resin so I am going to use the Jessie M replacement printed on my nice new Bambu P1S.

 

I did try print the outer initially but the white eSun PETG doesn't want to play nice with the new printer and so the support failed.  

 

However the black eSun PETG prints wonderfully, so I made a start on the tube. I initially went for strength as this needs to troop and so will get knocked.  4 perimeters, 15% cubic, and I completely forgot to check the estimated weight.  260g  Whilst I am sure this would be less when finished compared to the resin cast it was a bit on the heavy side.

 

So I reprinted it at 2 perimeters, 5% "cubic support" which came out at 87g, 66% saved!  Cubic support is a clever pattern that uses no infill initially and then slowly builds to the stated percentage. This left the part almost hollow.  It seems up to the job, I should have added an extra bottom layer or two as the default was 3 which flexed a lot. Though when glued you get 1.2mm which is probably fine.  Worst case it breaks and I can make a new one somewhere in the middle.

 

 

My printer wasn't tall enough to do the 1 shot part, so I needed to glue the 2 sections together.  The model has a small hole in each end, which is perfect for a short section of 1.75mm filament. 

 

 

Once a short section was glued into 1 side I then used some thick CA to join them forever. As mentioned there was some flex to the mating faces so I used a reasonable amount of thick CA and spun it to spread it over as much surface as possible. This should give a nice solid join, though I want to try source some water thin to try wick in the edges just in case.

 

The end result is a perfectly aligned tube, I even aligned the seam.

 

 

I'll get some new white soon and print the holder. Then I need to source a close white paint match.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to seeing your progress

 

One of us, one of us

[Sly11[Admin]]

Great start Chris.

I understand why they probably went with a resin TD as the original TFA TD's were solid resin and the weight substantial at almost 1.5kg

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Finally opened it all up and took inventory. The pulls all seem reasonable, few marks in places that hopefully won't cause too many issues, though the back triangles need a little work. The trim lines on the shoulders are borderline invisible, which will be fun to deal with.

 

Biggest worry remains the proper trim line on the forearms, but others have managed so I am sure I can too.

 

Guess I need to start cutting bits out, I have set my self a goal of being done by November and that's only going to happen if I actually start.

 

What's the glue of choice on these builds? Still E6000?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

Still E6000?

Depends on the area, I used E6000 on areas that would need some give, like the shins and forearms and JB weld for a more solid join yoke, abdomen, biceps etc. JB weld can be sanded too which is handing if you've applied too much or used to fill gaps before ABS slurry (or filler paint for some)

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Still not started trimming as trying to find time is proving hard.

 

I did have an issue that I thought was resolved but alas not.

 

I ordered the Denuo Novo neck seal. It was actually the first thing to arrive but it was clearly not the right size.  Seems I had been sent a 2XL that was marked up as an XL on the box and label.  Whilst slow to reply to their support DN resolved this well and sent me a new seal in the correct XL I ordered, and when it turned up it was actually an XL.  

 

Alas that's not where it ends.

 

After trying it on maybe 2-3 times the neoprene has torn ?Hard to show but essentially where the seam is has cause the neoprene to tear:

 

 

 

What I think has happened is the sewing has introduced a weak spot in the neoprene. Then as the velcro is pretty strong the force of un-doing it has caused it to tear.

 

I really can't decide if I am going to make another claim at this point, or just write it off to experience. I probably should just make a 2nd claim but need to build my self up to do so. At least it would then match the included gaskets.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I've ben trying to work on this in a sort of "little and often" manner. I know I can get overwhelmed, or start making silly mistakes if I try do too much at once. I'd actually like to finish this so getting angry and abandoning it is not a great plan 

 

Made a start on the rough trimming, most parts will need a 2nd look to either smooth off a bit or for the bigger parts remove some in areas where score and snap was just not working.  I did start using lexan scissors but it was proving to be a bit troublesome, score and snap was mostly easier so most of the parts have been trimmed that way.

 

The left forearm was a bit of a soft pull so have left more meat on that one to come back to later to clean up. Comparing it to the Right I think trimming where I need to remove the edge will be about perfect.

 

I have approximated the correct curve on the forearms. It's not perfect and I think what I will end up doing is removing this section and splicing in a new section cut from a suitable flat section cut from one of the large body panels.  This means I won't have to fight with the rough finish left from the moulding. I will also be able to make a template and get something a lot close to symmetrical that what I have eyeballed with a pen.

 

 

The plastic for the shins was nice and thick, which is great apart from when trying to trim it.  Score and snap only works if you can flex it to snap it, which I couldn't inside the areas your leg and ancle goes. I'll come back to these with a dremel sanding drum later. I have a simlar issue with the wrists as well but was able to get closer to where I wanted them to be.

 

 

The other thing I've noticed is that there are a couple of nasty black dings on corners.  I am hoping I can clean these up with a bit of light sanding. Worst case I'll have to rebuild with some ABS paste.  I also have noticed some recesses could be cleaner. I'll see what I can do with a nice round tool to push them back into place.

 

12/39 parts rough trimmed.

 

Progress continues on the TD. I sand, I die, I sand again. Then fill all the bits I missed, rinse and repeat. 

 

I am following @OddViking327 excellent video but I am using 3M Acril green as I can get that here. If I could get Bondo here I would use that as it sounds like it's easier to apply and sand after.

 

 

This is a couple of passes of neat filler on both, and the 1st pass of diluted on the holder. The tube had 2-3 coats before rough sanding and filler primer.  This, combined with my terrible painting skills, needed to be taken back and a few more rounds of filler.

 

 

One tip I learnt from the tube, is to apply a light chamfer to the edges that will be glued together. It's much easier to fill this small defect than sand off the lip.

 

I compared an off cut to my SE-44C which is painted in the paint I plan to use to see if it's a close enough match.  This is Halfords "Appliance White", which sadly has been discontinued but there is a replacement "Gloss white" that I hope will be the same tone.

 

 

It's not perfect but I think close enough. This was artificial light but I have also checked in daylight and it was not visibly any different.

 

And I'll end with a photo dump of the other trimmed parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I have been plodding away on this, completely missed my initial deadline shocking absolutely no one ?

 

Today I managed to finish rough trimming the last pulls. As these we more than "completely boring" I'll do a quick update on them.

 

First was the shoulder bells.  The trim line on this was "soft" to say the least. It was okay at the top but by the bottom was all but invisible even on the back.  I ended up adding a few dots on the back side where it was JUST visible using an ultra fine sharpie.  Then I held this up to a light and played join the dots on the front to be able to trim it.

 

 

This was then trimmed with a mix of score and snap and some curved laxan scissors.

 

The last parts I did was the abdomen shells.  For these I was worried about flex at the "petals" causing cracks into the main armour so I started by using a 3mm drill to add a "crack stop" in all the corners. This gives a nice clean end to the runs and stops cracks forming in the first place. 

 

 

I then went back added all the trim lines and got to work on the rest, Again a mix of score and snap and the scissors.

 

 

This shows the purpose of the drill holes. The trim is a bit rough but you can see how the drill left a nice clean corner with no chance of a crack running.  I'll clean up with some sandpaper and files before gluing.

 

 

With all the parts trimmed I did the obligatory "am I too fat" check. And I think I am okay. I expect I'll need about 1-2" of gap at the back but shouldn't need any shims.

 

I am have some leave booked to use up each week this year in a "use it or lose it" situation so I am hoping to get a bit more done on this but Christmas looms large and there is shopping I'll need to do.

 

I think my next goal is to get the abdomen cleaned up, test fit and see where that gets me. This part seems to from the core of the armour with other bits hanging off or fitting over so seems like a reasonable start point.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Finally been able to work on this again.  Come up with a plan to work bottom up. This builds confidence as I go and introduces things like ABS slurry slowly as I work up.

 

I started on the spats. I have finish sanded the trim lines to 120G now, probably need to do a 2nd pass at 240. I plan to make these as Ardeshir does in his video with the Velcro away from the slip end. To give these maximum flex I've gone pretty tight on the return edge, and have some foam trim coming to lock into the shin grooves.

 

I also went pretty tight on the shin returns. Enough to have a bit of depth but not enough to dig in to anything like on my OT. I think there's about 3/4 mm of thickness, not quite as small as it looks here.

 

 

Obligatory try on with completely inappropriate trousers

 

 

This shows the spat return well

 

 

I also drilled for the Kit Kats, and independently learned the template is rubbish.

 

 

I carefully measured and marked and aligned the templates before drilling.  And found I'd aligned it a bit too far left.

 

 

 

The left side is right on the seam line, and should be in a little.

 

To fix this I plan to slightly slot the holes in 2mm and then use a 3D printed reinforcement to fix the final position.

 

 

I've drawn on some guide lines that will allow me to move them in slowly. I'll probably start at 1mm (marked is 2mm) and see how that looks 1st.

 

Next up will be the thighs. Again I'll trim the return reasonably close and drill for the holster.

 

I've also trimmed and sanded a few other bits bit these will get more attentions I work up the armour.

 

 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Two weekends in a row? outrageous.

 

Started by addressing last weeks mistake. I filed out the holes as I described, which worked well on one but the other side drifted slightly so fitting the bar was impossible. I ended up making some little 3D printed donuts I taped in place and then used a step bit and went to 5mm. This is a little sloppy but allows me to align how I need to. A dab of slow setting glue when I apply will stop them moving with time.

 

 

Next up, there was a fun delivery this week. The full works from @R2Dan

 

After a quick test fit of my SC-44C, which was perfect spacing but needs shorter screws I moved on to fitting the holster to the leg.

 

Having learnt to be more carful on the Kit Kats the 1st job was to prep the template. The mount from R2Dan wasn't a perfect fit so I positioned it where it looked central and marked the holes. I then marked the hole centres.  Once the template was taped on I very very carefully aligned the part to where it will go and after a couple of adjustments was happy so centre marked the holes and drilled with a brad point. Used the nicer ones this time which where through very cleanly.

 

 

Much happier with this. I will probably also reinforce the leg slightly at the hole point, which means slightly longer screws. Will Need to see what the leg room is like.

 

This means the legs are all now ready for gluing up the 1st seams. I need to check I have all the clamps and magnets to hand and I can get going.

 

 (legs swapped side to side so the fall into each other not over, I didn't drill the holster in the middle)

 

Next up I got on with removing the remaining excess from the forearm parts, again going for a minimal return for comfort, room, and flexibility.

 

 

 

The wrists I have tried to remove as much return as possible. My hands BARELY fit so I need to tape them up and see if I need to do something clever to help here.

 

Biceps got the same treatment as everything else. Also probably now ready for the main seam to be glued up. The overlap will wait for sizing later down the line.

 

 

Shoulder bell lips also all ready for glue now, removed the lip for a clean edge.

 

 

The foam draft trim came so I also fitted that to the spats per Ardeshirs video. I also couldn't resist adding the velcro to have something that sort of looks done. The glued clip end I'll wait for once I have the shins and boots assembled to be able to check positioning.

 

 

The foam trim works great and really does help kit it all lined up well.

 

Finally I did a trimming pass on the chest plate. I've left more return here as it's not really going to need to flex much, but I know some reshaping will probably be needed.

 

 

As you can see I also removed the pill backing to allow for some fabric.  I've left a small lip on the rear to give a nice clean definition, but could go a little further if needed.

 

 

 

I need to order some fabric for the backing. I understand this should be an aeromesh?  I can't find any good reference or documentation on this only a few photos from submissions.

 

I was sure if I should go for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122155896996?var=424700660017 which is a basic mesh, or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323052345596?var=515553086677 which is a "spacer" which has a thin foam and backing which might be a bit more opaque. I am also considering the basic mesh with a plan cotton/canvas 2nd later to make it opaque.

 

I also can't seem to find the sticker sheet for the armour, which is a little worrying as if so I am going to have to remake them all. And while I have a circuit, that's not really what I was hoping to have to do.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

The following may be of help 

Also

Attached a scan of the Anovos decals 

TFA Decals.PDF

Trooperbay's

ANOVOS-the-force-awakens-TFA decal-set.pdf

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Thanks for finding that scan Glen, though it was bothering me today so I hunted around all of the places it could be and eventually found it in a folder on the shelf.

 

 

Having seen that scan of the Anovos one, I'll scan this so if anything goes wrong applying I can reproduce bits.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

As time allows I've been working on a 3D moddled version of the rails for the forearms that allow for the correct hex head screw.  I used the DN part as a guide for size and replicated them bar the 1 bump where the screw will go. I don't plan to go whole hog and do a full length part that goes under the wrist box but who knows what the future holds.

 

 

 

I know this isn't the right screw but it's the only one I had to hand that was the right size. I'll order some plan hex heads later.

On first testing I realised the offset alignment block means that on one side it fits will and on the other it creates a bad fit. So I created 2 mirrored rails to fit on the respective forearm.

I got to learn some fun Fusion tricks with parameters so I only have 1 model, and just change between L and R and it updates the alignment and the engraving to ensure I know which is which.

 

 

I have also been progressing on the armour and have had some deliveries to cover but I'll do that in a different post.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

A small fabric sample came, plenty enough for 2-3 chest plates. I got this based on some images I've seen of what others appear to be using.

 

Image on some a black fabric, with some white paper for contrast.

 

 

Does this look about right? I'll back it with some black cloth, and then attach it behind the pills.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Started working on adjusting the forearms to TLJ cuts.

I started by trying to "iron" them with a very hot spoon but this wasn't going to work on the compound curve.  Did help on a thinner bit though.

With that knowledge I knew I was going to be splicing in new plastic and learning about ABS slurry,

 

 

I marked both we some tape to get some nice straight lines to cut out the wavy bit. That cut out I went through my off cuts found a piece the right thickness and big enough. I also cut some joining plates for behind. I started buy attaching the backing plates with some ABS slurry, avoiding glue so there's no glue line. Then I attached the filler peices.  I didn't do a great job clamping the far corner which lifted slightly so will need more sanding.

 

 

I then started to fill the seams with more slurry. I am not overly good at this and have made a small mess.  I definitely did a better job on one side to the other.

 

I have sanded this back this morning, found some low spots, so have refilled those again. I also added a little bit of paste to the back to thicken out where I am sanding to try avoid any accidents.

 

ABS filling is definitely an art vs typical fillers as it's drying from the second you remove it from the jar.  Manging how liquid, or not, how much you have on the tool (I used a mix of coffee stirrers and a brush) and how big an area to do at once is a tough balancing act.

 

So far going okay so will just iterate on this until I am happy with the flatness. It's easy to add a little more, but adding too much will encourage over sanding.

 

I also have glued up a bunch of stuff: 

Shins are done, thigh main seam is done, wating for fitting for the inner shoulders, and biceps are all started as well.

 

 

 

The shoulder bells where a pain to line up the lips. After trying various ways to measure it I found eye-balling it actually did it very quickly. Once marked I compared both a few different ways until I was happy they lined up.

I have also transferred the mark to the under side for when I add the mounting points.

Biceps have a small issue:

 

The length of seam at the cut line is a good 4-5mm off. I've aligned "correctly" based on where the clip will go, the top is okay but the bottom is no good.

 

But I've just looked at reference and these are upside down. so the bottom is good, top is the issue. Either way I think my best bet is to blend the cut down about 3-3cm into the larger part to hide the bad alignment.

I also have a belt, some webbing and clips so will be looking to start fitting the strapping to the thighs soon.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Still need to do the final trim and sanding but the extensions for the forearms are almost there.

 

 

This light is brutally unforgiving to the sanding I need to do, I tend to work on this in the evening so light isn't great. I might need to do a very thin coat of the ABS paste just to cover the last few flaws. See how another round of sanding goes.

 

You can also see 2 issues that I am not sure I can do much about unless I resign to painting which I think won't be necessary once polished:

1. There is a very faint grey line where the plastic joins. I have no idea why though. The ABS paste the same plastic there as it is on other areas you can see, and that's fine. Hoping after polish and final trim this will be not very noticeable.
2. A small warp on the right most part. This pull was very thin and the ABS paste seems to have weakened it a bit as it was being worked. The warp lies below the reinforcement piece in place. Hoping once I sand back the reinforcement a bit and then glue and clamp onto the inner section this won't be too noticeable.

This was the result of about 3-4 passes of ABS paste and filling. I ended up making some small sanding tools with my 3D printer, basically a stick with a wedged end, and using tick on sand paper to get good access.  I am still bad at sanding but these tools helped alot by keeping things flat and so taking off high spots vs blending them in.

 

Also glued in some clips, trying to emulate the strapping in the TLJ in the gallery :

 

I have a temporary belt made up as well with the webbing to drop down. All a bit basic at the moment but it works and will allow me to do a test fit once I either get out my TK undersuit or get to the shop and buy a new one.  When I do that I'll be able to size the thigh and then glue the inner seam into place.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Screws came for the forearm inserts. This is a test pair which isn't the best printed or sanded, will also need to be painted.