1st Build - TK - DTKC -Build Thread

[DTKC]

This is really important, especially for all new people overwhelmed by all this, like me.  I love White Armor, but in the close to the 20 years of it being around it has amassed so much that it's completely overwhelming and hard to figure out where to start. Even with all the "where to start posts."  

 

For me, I came across two resources that have now become invaluable and are the only two resources I am following.  

 

One is this post for TK ANH Stunt build outs by @MaskedVengeance a complete one stop shop.  

The other was a PDF created by @MaskedVengeance based on the build post from @A.J. Hamler.  For me this is end to end build documentation.  Or at least a framework.  I don't know if I will stick to everything and every tip.  But for now I am following it.  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kXZnv64H9fERK9rwoCWrDxKVy_71ovbU/view?usp=sharing

 

Now on to the show.....

Edited August 13, 2023 by DTKC

[DTKC]

I am documenting all my tips but

Tip #1 - Sand before gluing.  I didn't not think about that before I glued the face to my bucket of my helmet.  And I completely forgot on my TD.  

Tip #2 - Don't use Sharpie on the plastic, it smears then you have a smeared messed.  Ask me how I know.  

 

Thermal Detonator 

The first check I get to make is on my TD.  Not much to report here.  Just made sure I followed the process that was called out in "My Bible" as I mentioned in the post above. 

 

 

 

I need to glue on the end caps.  One note: the face is actually centered on the clips.  The picture makes it look like it is not aligned, but after seeing this picture I ran down to my build lab to double check in a panic.  Phew.... 

[DTKC]

Helmet 

I am going to work on my helmet today.  I did glue it yesterday and started on the teeth.  

 

Tip #1: Make SURE you are using RARE earth magnets.  I thought I purchased rare earth but I didn't.  I ended up having to run to Home Depot and get some.  

Tip #2: Someone mentioned putting blue painters tape on the bottom to not scratch the plastic.  I added the handles on the end.  For me this allowed me to quickly remove the magnets as they are strong!  

 

I also added a few more magnets after this picture, then added two clips.

 

 

 

[Scout_Troop3R]

Damn you're well underway already, nice! Also those tips and articles you posted will be super helpful for me, so thanks! Good luck getting the rest done!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You may want to check the measurements of your TD caps and gap between caps and control panel

 

A pencil is much better for marking plastic prior to trimming  

 

Some great tutorials on helmets

 

Some references

 

 

 

 

 

[DTKC]

4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You may want to check the measurements of your TD caps and gap between caps and control panel

 

A pencil is much better for marking plastic prior to trimming  

UGH.  TIP #3 - make sure I double check everything against the CRL.      

 

Thanks for calling that out.  Back to the drawing board!  

 

Thank you! 

Edited August 14, 2023 by DTKC

[FN1313[TK]]

If you are aiming for higher levels, you’ll want to double check measurements as there’s very detailed sizes and distances of measurements for EIB and Centurion.


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[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

On 8/13/2023 at 9:51 AM, DTKC said:

For me, I came across two resources that have now become invaluable and are the only two resources I am following.  

One is this post for TK ANH Stunt build outs by @MaskedVengeance a complete one stop shop.

 

 

The other was a PDF created by @MaskedVengeance based on the build post from @A.J. Hamler.  For me this is end to end build documentation.  Or at least a framework.  I don't know if I will stick to everything and every tip.  But for now I am following it.  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kXZnv64H9fERK9rwoCWrDxKVy_71ovbU/view?usp=sharing

 

On 8/13/2023 at 4:53 PM, Scout_Troop3R said:

Damn you're well underway already, nice! Also those tips and articles you posted will be super helpful for me, so thanks! Good luck getting the rest done!

Glad to see those threads are of help to you, Dale and Tyler! I do particularly love AJ's thread, which is why I compiled it into PDF form for easy viewing on a tablet or print. In fact, I've been working on formatting my own build thread into PDF form, and it's currently nowhere near completion but is already 200 pages long (google drive link)!

 

@DTKC - You'll also find that I'm quite obsessed with thermal detonators, and I have two details posts about them as part of my build thread HERE (#1) and HERE (#2). Part #3 is forthcoming, but you can see the results of second detonator attempt on my EI and Centurion applications. And currently I have a master thermal det post in the works. 

 

 

[DTKC]

@MaskedVengeance dang!  That's an amazing PDF!  I am going to go through it as well.   I see you are in Georgia!  I just moved from Duluth last year.  Now in Kansas City, KS.  

 

Regarding the TD, thanks for the information!  I will post pics of mine soon.  I think they are now passable.  

 

PS - LOVE the magnet sachets (creation thread)!   Yep, going to steal that idea as well! 

[DTKC]

Can I get some opinions?  I am leaning to not doing any trimming of my ears since they both lay pretty much like this.  It would be nice if they were flush.  But I am honestly feeling pretty lucky they are where they are.  

 

I have seen many reference images where the gaps are worse.  

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Correct some images show a lot more gap. Not sure if you have read this thread I posted earlier, it's adding a step to the top of the ear so it sits closer to the helmet. Sanding spots which are touching will allow areas with gaps to come closer.

 

[DTKC]

@gmrhodes13 thanks for this!  I may have missed it.  I have been trying to copy the links of the really informative posts to my knowledge management system so I can try to keep track of them and make it a little less overwhelming.  lol 0 

 

I will review your thread.  My ears do have the step in them.  However,  because of that they are not perfectly centered per level 3 requirements.  I may just come back to them later.  

 

I always appreciate your input!  

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Those gaps are definitely fine for approval. The top section on the front of that right ear is a bit thick, but may also be passable.


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[DTKC]

Do you think this would be passable for level 1 or 3? 

 

Neither level indicate the angle or the placement. 

 

This is about where I can get the left ear without many alterations, which I feel will do more damage than good.  Also, I think the ear should be almost to the bottom of the brow and the back rim.  I can get this ear to about 1/8th of an inch.   But any more would require a lot of alteration.   My right ear is fine, I believe.   Comparing to screen-used helmets, I think mine would fall into the "acceptable" category.  

 

I am not trying to be lazy, but I am trying not to over think it either.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Should get you all the way to L3

 

From the DO's reference thread:

The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it.  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.

 

Note:  Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap.

 

And from the CRL:

 

• Ideally, the placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them.

 

The word "ideally" does not mean "must" it's a suggestion, even some of their references aren't aligned this way :0 

p.

 

                                          

 

 

 

[DTKC]

That's awesome! Thanks!!! I appreciate you always jumping in!!!

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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

12 hours ago, DTKC said:

Do you think this would be passable for level 1 or 3? 

 

Neither level indicate the angle or the placement. 

 

This is about where I can get the left ear without many alterations, which I feel will do more damage than good.  Also, I think the ear should be almost to the bottom of the brow and the back rim.  I can get this ear to about 1/8th of an inch.   But any more would require a lot of alteration.   My right ear is fine, I believe.   Comparing to screen-used helmets, I think mine would fall into the "acceptable" category.  

 

I am not trying to be lazy, but I am trying not to over think it either.  

 

 

 

Hi Dale,

 

You're doing a great job work your helmet build and glad you ask before every step to take.

 

As Glen mentioned, the  "ideal" and more accurate alignment for the ears is following the rear angle of the trap above them. We encourage this mainly when someone is building the helmet from the beginning because this allow to make it the more accurate as possible. Is different when you buy the finished  helmet and it's more difficult to make the ears alignment fix.

 

You can make a try and see how it looks moving the ear a bit backwards.

 

 

 

 

Keep up the great work future Centurion. 

 

[DTKC]

16 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

As Glen mentioned, the  "ideal" and more accurate alignment for the ears is following the rear angle of the trap above them. We encourage this mainly when someone is building the helmet from the beginning because this allow to make it the more accurate as possible. Is different when you buy the finished  helmet and it's more difficult to make the ears alignment fix.

Appreciate the positive response.  And that does make sense.  I get the feeling there is the CRL definition, but then there are also the observations made by those judging the costumes.  You are right it's challenging to try and make alterations on a finished helmet.  I did try to move it back, but I would then have to reshape the edge of the bucket a bit.  I may come back to it once I am complete with everything else.   Thanks again! 

[DTKC]

I have made a little progress.  I added the stickers today. My kit,  DDD, came with decals for the frown, traps, tears and back.  Have a bit of work to do, but I do see a light at the end of the tunnel.. at least for the helmet.  (And why yes, that is a kitchen strainer I am using to hold up the helmet.  I added Flex Seal on the inside and am letting it dry out.  I wanted to give it as much air as possible.  So it's outside on my screened-in patio. ) 

 

Tip of the day: don't use a file to push the decals in on the frown.  Have some paint touch-up to do now.  

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good. One thing to watch especially for higher levels is the fall of the tube stripes L2: 

• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

[DTKC]

5 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

 

• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

 

Oh man!  I totally misinterpreted that.  I read that as just make sure they are facing toward the front. Do you think I need to re-do them?  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

9 minutes ago, DTKC said:

Oh man!  I totally misinterpreted that.  I read that as just make sure they are facing toward the front. Do you think I need to re-do them?  

I would if you are thinking of going for higher level approval, it's really only  the first one you have to move.

 

I had to do this on a recruits helmet once, I used clear tape and pressed hard on the front tube stripe, gently lifted the tap and used a blade to start lifting the corner then lifted the rest off. Easy to reposition with using clear tape  

[DTKC]

1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I would if you are thinking of going for higher level approval, it's really only  the first one you have to move.

 

A little better?

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Just watch the height position, this one is a little lower  

 

Also looks as if you are really close to the cheek at the back L2: 

• Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

 

 

[DTKC]

I noticed that was a little low in the picture. The shiny plastic plays tricks on the eyes.it looked spot on when I did it.

And yes, the back is close. But it is right a pencil height.

Thank you again!

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