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MakerM13's build thread (WTF Kits)


makerM13

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I used to add the inner strips but over time found I only really needed them for your shins as you are constantly opening and closing them, it's a personal choice, it won't affect approval so up to you if you want to add them

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Looks good to me, you can do any final trimming to avoid armor bites once you have all the armor strapped.

 

Speaking of strapping the elastic from bicep to forearm is normally applied to the top, just off center 

gallery_12157_16_24850.jpg

 

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Looking good.

 

Some arm strapping references:

Note the forearm/bicep elastic is on the top, helps keep them in position when moving arms

gallery_12157_16_24850.jpg

 

5MSb8Mu.jpg

 

f97a53e16d453951c1a4ff4ab381493b.jpg

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Question on my WTF kit. The kidney and posterior are molded as one piece tha/ needs to be seperated. This leaves very small return edges in these areas. I see this has been discussed, but looking for tips/suggestions on how to best manage this.

 

zHZe2qEh.jpg

 

8B1g4Jhh.jpg

 

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22 minutes ago, makerM13 said:

Question on my WTF kit. The kidney and posterior are molded as one piece tha/ needs to be seperated. This leaves very small return edges in these areas. I see this has been discussed, but looking for tips/suggestions on how to best manage this.

If you aren't using the original style bracket/screw system you should be fine without very much return edge on those edges, I would try to cut as close to the middle as possible. Definitely use a new cutting blade as well, a little pressure and go slow.

 

Here's a WTF separated

YWGiHDI.jpg

 

 

And an EIB strapped and approved

dYQjWoH.jpg

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I personally feel that longevity is better achieved with the elastic and snaps method, sure it’s not exactly how they did it in the movies, but I like to have my armor avoid cracks as long as possible.


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Clamps and magents are the way to go, make small adjustments, I find using bolts rather than rivets helpful as you can adjust the bolts, rivets you are pretty stuck unless you carefully remove them.

 

Although not a requirement DO"s suggest this for ear placement:

 

The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it.  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.

 

Note:  Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap.

 

 aqL1Zj9.jpg?2  oYDEzWK.jpg?1 

 

A great thread on fitting ears, making the notch on top of the ear can be of great help reducing gaps

 

 

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11 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Although not a requirement DO"s suggest this for ear placement:

 

The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it.  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.

 

Note:  Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap.

 

@makerM13  As Glen rightly pointed, This is highly recommended when building the helmet from the beginning as you're doing.  keep it up! :jc_doublethumbup:.  

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Looking for some help and suggestions for my ab to kidney plate fitting.

 

I've already figured out I need to add about 2" per side with shims (I thought I was thin!).

 

The notch on the kidney doesn't line up correctly to the ab. Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

JT0bNgUh.jpg

 

DYfVrjQh.jpg

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Looking for some help and suggestions for my ab to kidney plate fitting.
 
I've already figured out I need to add about 2" per side with shims (I thought I was thin!).
 
The notch on the kidney doesn't line up correctly to the ab. Any pointers would be appreciated.
 
JT0bNgUh.jpg
 
DYfVrjQh.jpg

The notch itself isn’t a requirement as such it’s okay that it doesn’t line up exactly. I’d recommend trimming as it’s intended to remove the extra plastic and leave the notch as is.


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"I've already figured out I need to add about 2" per side with shims (I thought I was thin!)".

 

You will need to trim all the return edges off of the sides, Kyle.  Make sure they are straight, so that they meet up, and the shims are only used to extend the kidney, not the ab.

 

1mP8wrf.jpg          

 

Here are some photos where Jose @TK 71627 used shims with his WTF armor.  For EIB there is no need to repair (cover) the split as seen below...

 

   qLSHXdv.jpg

 

BUT, for Centurion (which I hope you are aiming for) the repaired shim seam must be not be seen.  Jose did a really nice job effectively covering these up with ABS paste and some work.

 

oPz4PYz.jpg   xugxcST.jpg

 

Note how in addition to the shim itself there is an additional piece of ABS inside for strength. ;)

 

OFrUqYc.jpg

 

Keep those photos and questions coming!  

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My real concern is related to this diagram I found, and how the notches on the WTF armor are formed:

 

Chbq2Gn.jpg

 

 

It looks like the extension from the notch should line up with the bottom of the Ab plate (red line), not the upper line on the Ab plate like my armor is (blue line):

 

Aw1M4fXh.jpg

 

I know the notch is not required, but I would at least like to get EIB in the future, and hopefully Centurion!

 

Thank you

 

Mark

 

 

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17 minutes ago, makerM13 said:

My real concern is related to this diagram I found, and how the notches on the WTF armor are formed:

 

Chbq2Gn.jpg

 

 

It looks like the extension from the notch should line up with the bottom of the Ab plate (red line), not the upper line on the Ab plate like my armor is (blue line):

 

Aw1M4fXh.jpg

 

I know the notch is not required, but I would at least like to get EIB in the future, and hopefully Centurion!

 

Thank you

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

CRL L3:  Cut-out notches at the bottom of right and left sides of the Kidney Armor are optional.

 

Hi,  Every armor maker has some details that make easy or difficult to achieve de more accuracy, I would suggest to add the shims with no cut-out notches

As you can see, the cut out is Optional . You can ,(we hope you will do)  apply for EIB and Centurion with out it.

 

 

 

 

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Hello, I was wondering if there is a 'recommended' flow for starting on strapping installation. I wasn't sure if there is one key piece of armor that other parts placements are referenced to.

 

I've gone through a few other's build threads, but just looking for some guidance on where is best to start.

 

Thanks

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