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PatrickM

Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

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7 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

I envy your electronic know-how; keep up the great work emoji1.png

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
 

Sometimes being an electrical engineer helps. ;) The standard approach of using a resistor would also have worked, but then the current would drop if the battery runs empty. I wanted to ensure that the LED current remains at 20mA. Just let me know if you would like a detailed explanation.

 

I really admire the mechanical skills of other forum members such as yourself!

 

Expecting more parts to arrive within a few days... :D

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In the meantime 2 more packages arrived, containing:

- additional 3D printed parts, this time from Christopher Pearson

- the BlastFX with miniscope electronics kit from TRamp

 

So I guess you know what’s coming next... ^_^

 

Pew pew! :Laser:

Here’s a picture of the incoming goods inspection (trying to be professional about this :D):

46744588711_0bcced2871_h.jpg20190114_190640

 

More details

And here’s a picture of some recent progress using the 3D printed parts:

46744591901_8ab038f306_h.jpg20190114_225019

 

It’s beginning to look like a blaster...

31802971717_3113f92d60_h.jpg20190114_230059

 

Cheers! :pint1:

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In the meantime 2 more packages arrived, containing:
- additional 3D printed parts, this time from Christopher Pearson
- the BlastFX with miniscope electronics kit from TRamp
 
So I guess you know what’s coming next... 
 
Pew pew! :Laser:
Here’s a picture of the incoming goods inspection (trying to be professional about this ):
46744588711_0bcced2871_h.jpg&key=d1a9075277d802caeb80ca03b0416fd5425ea863120c413ac6cc93df55952ad420190114_190640
 
More details
And here’s a picture of some recent progress using the 3D printed parts:
46744591901_8ab038f306_h.jpg&key=b899de7e912a96b628448877d6a6ede49e120ab20a94c9205892f69e1b73bb6f20190114_225019
 
It’s beginning to look like a blaster...
31802971717_3113f92d60_h.jpg&key=b4dd4010c1b529cd147f4c748c53e737ebdc1193b4732623adccf0c3bd00167120190114_230059
 
Cheers! :pint1:
Man oh man - BlastFX v.2 with LED strip is gorgeous!!

A heads up - not sure if you have your rear site installed already but a gap needs to be in place between it and the end cap so that when the end cap is engaged, there's that approx. 2mm room for the cap to be pushes and turned. Thought I'd mention

Have fun!! Exciting build times ahead!!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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The BlastFX kit is spectacular! that is going to light up your blaster like a Christmas tree! The scope display never fails to impress me as well. I told Paul he hit a grand slam when he added that to the kit! It added new purpose and meaning to making my hollow scope kits!

 

Keep up the amazing work!

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16 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Man oh man - BlastFX v.2 with LED strip is gorgeous!!

 

12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

The BlastFX kit is spectacular! that is going to light up your blaster like a Christmas tree! The scope display never fails to impress me as well. I told Paul he hit a grand slam when he added that to the kit! It added new purpose and meaning to making my hollow scope kits!

 

Yes, the BlastFX kit is really awesome! My son couldn’t stop testing it. ^_^ And the scope display looks fantastic, especially in your beautiful hollow scope kit Brian. As soon as I saw movies of that combination I was sold! :wub:  And on top of that Paul is a great guy to deal with, very helpful. He even sent me the latest BlastFX version with functional rotary switch, which wasn’t available yet when I placed my order. Really cool! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

16 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

A heads up - not sure if you have your rear site installed already but a gap needs to be in place between it and the end cap so that when the end cap is engaged, there's that approx. 2mm room for the cap to be pushes and turned. Thought I'd mention emoji28.png

 

Thanks for the heads up! Fortunately I already noticed and screwed the rear sight in the correct position, leaving just enough room for the end cap to move. :peace:

 

16 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Have fun!! Exciting build times ahead!!

 

12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Keep up the amazing work!

 

7 hours ago, namebrand said:

Looks great!

 

Thanks guys! Looking forward to completing this project. If only I had more spare time... :salute:

Edited by PatrickM
Corrected an autocorrect error.
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Wow!! Paul continues to improve on his BlastFX offering. I had asked for a rotary switch over a year ago...now it being available, thats very cool!!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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Scope electronics

Today’s update is all about the scope electronics. After receiving the BlastFX kit I had to rethink my strategy, because the miniscope no longer comes with a separate PCB. That means not 2 wires with battery supply voltage, but 4 wires going straight to the display. Fortunately, 2 of those carry a 3.3V supply voltage and Paul confirmed that I could draw the additional 20mA required by my red LED from this supply. Since this voltage is regulated I decided to go with the classical series resistor approach to limit the current through the LED:

46804370801_4d5a5f73f8_h.jpg20190119_144453

 

The 5mm LED housing fits nicely into the front of the scope:

46751822882_8f0a53ab76_b.jpg20190119_153917

 

Almost ready:

46804537421_80b5e3d168_h.jpg20190119_195036

 

Here’s a video of the result:

31862498967_20f066a9b7_o.jpgM38 scope with miniscope + LED

 

Cheers! :pint1:

Edited by PatrickM
Textual correction
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Loving it :wub::D Great work, makes me want to start another blaster. :lol:

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Wow, that red led on the front looks cool. I have to do this someday with my blaster. Truly awesome work. Great you are paving th way for others on the wiring and power. 

 

 

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Oops, looks like I’ll have to rethink my strategy once more. I just realized that the BlastFX electronics has not just grown in functionality, but apparently also in size. As a consequence, the main PCB no longer fits in the custom Hengstler counter:

31871388557_b458c9caa2_h.jpg20190120_141918

 

The most obvious alternative I can think of is to place it inside the main tube, but then I’ll have to close the charging handle slot and can’t have a visible recoil spring. The whole thing will also be more difficult to access...

 

Any bright ideas anyone? :0Lighten:

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31 minutes ago, PatrickM said:

(...)   the main PCB no longer fits in the custom Hengstler counter   (...)

Would a diagonal placement work? Or what about hiding it in that gap between scope, counter and receiver tube?

Edited by T-Jay
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1 hour ago, T-Jay said:

Would a diagonal placement work? Or what about hiding it in that gap between scope, counter and receiver tube?

Even diagonally it won't fit. The gap between scope, counter and receiver tube is also too small, and would expose all the wiring which I'm trying to hide as much as possible.

 

Perhaps if I move the battery to the Hengstler counter instead and replace the magazine with a bigger one, it might fit in there...

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Time for a test fitting of the main components:

46766208592_f534abd263_h.jpg20190120_214645

 

9 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Wow, that red led on the front looks cool. I have to do this someday with my blaster. Truly awesome work. Great you are paving th way for others on the wiring and power. 

Might try pointing it at the moon tonight to see if it will make it turn red... ;)

 

Cheers! :pint1:

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8 hours ago, PatrickM said:

(...)   Might try pointing it at the moon tonight to see if it will make it turn red... ;)   (...)

That was a good one. :duim:

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Today I worked on some small details again.

 

New end cap clip

Made a new end cap clip with a smaller axle diameter to ensure sufficient strength around the drill hole. Since the 3D printed part did not come with the knurling pattern, I applied some green stuff and pressed the pattern into that. I initially tried to use a clip from a pen as spring mechanism, but my metal drills just wouldn’t go through. So I used some aluminum instead, but that bends back too easily. Any suggestions..?

31956640277_98c6d5d4da_b.jpg20190127_214058

 

Thou shalt not look like a toilet :lol:

After reading Jesse’s build thread I had to agree that the DoopyDoo’s end cap looks a bit like a mini-toilet. Tried to replicate his reshaping of the bottom side of the cap:

46845885762_3467464ceb_b.jpg20190127_220553

 

Magazine clip release lever

At least I think that’s what this part that is completely missing from the DoopyDoo’s magazine is called. Feel free to correct me on that if needed! :) I used some leftover aluminum parts to recreate this based on pictures I found on the web. Due to the small size of the magazine I could only fit this “cut-off” version:

31956640167_7726ca469e_b.jpg20190127_204609

 

Cheers! :pint1:

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Looks great!

Did you find a solution for your space problem ?


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Hey were two of the same mind! Nice job ridding of the doopydoos toilet effect on the end cap

 

And also wow! Magazine clip latch, I believe it's called, looks spot-on

 

Keep up the great work! Following with interest

 

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Mupfel said:

Looks great!

Did you find a solution for your space problem ?


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Thanks!

 

So far putting the electronics in the pipe still seems to be the best solution in terms of accessibility. That would mean sacrificing the recoil spring though (why would a laser blaster need that anyway? ;)). But I haven't really made up my mind yet so I decided to simply work on something else today... :D

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Clip release, end cap and end cap clip look great. Nice work on these parts. 

 

For the end cap clip I think I used a piece of scrap metal from something I had. Sorry my memory on that is fuzzy. But I do remember having to punch a hole through the metal and it took a few attempts. I will have a look at my old build and see what I used. Aluminum is too soft as you mentioned and won’t be great long term.

Edited by Bulldog44
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I checked my build thread and I used a bulldog clip for the spring plate. The metal was strong enough to keep its spring tension and easy enough to cut & drill through. I believe I used the large type of clips as the metal is a bit thinner and easier to work with.

Edited by Bulldog44
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43 minutes ago, Bulldog44 said:

I checked my build thread and I used a bulldog clip for the spring plate. The metal was strong enough to keep its spring tension and easy enough to cut & drill through. I believe I used the large type of clips as the metal is a bit thinner and easier to work with.

Thanks Brian! :duim:

I had no idea that those things were called bulldog clips, needed a Google picture search for that. :blush: I thought that these used springs. Will look if I can also find them with spring plates!

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3 hours ago, PatrickM said:

Thanks Brian! :duim:

I had no idea that those things were called bulldog clips, needed a Google picture search for that. :blush: I thought that these used springs. Will look if I can also find them with spring plates!

No problem. these clips don't actually have any springs. I cut the main clip metal part with shears for cutting metal. I just cut the exact strip size from that metal and bent it to specs. It has worked perfectly since. I used dollar store large sized bulldog clips as the metal isn't as rigid (cheap metal:lol:) as the more expensive ones. 

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