Jump to content
Callidus95

DLT-19 Build Thread

Recommended Posts

So I recently purchased a DLT-19 Kit from 3DpropsNL on etsy. I'm currently awaiting the medium brown box. These are the pics of how a finished and painted kit looks on their page.

 

My plan is to paint the stock either a black or gunmetal black, not sure yet and have varying amounts of wear on the different parts of the blaster/gun as on a real MG34, the parts are interchangeable in the field. I'm going use an aluminum-based gunmetal black, aluminum, and patina. I will potentially seal it all in a non-gloss clear coat.

1344050638_dlt-19etsy.jpg.31ae7688593546cf639a4a1f82f1abde.jpg1412431902_dlt-19etsy2.jpg.55ccacc0daaf53ca3fb55505e3775914.jpg406729859_Dlt-19etsy3.jpg.5b0824b2e51ada72631f1826af6d33b3.jpg 

Edited by Darth Callidus
Could not delete my clarifying reply
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a more detailed plan of how I intend to paint my DLT-19

 

My plan is to paint the stock a rubber black or as more of a mix between gunmetal and true black with wear along the edges in the gunmetal or aluminum. the ring near the stock will be aluminum paint. The Handle will be a mix between Gunmetal and true black with wear along the edges in the gunmetal, possibly mixed with aluminum. The majority of the remaining blaster will be a base coat an aluminum-based gunmetal black with weathering done in aluminum dry brushing, and some done with a mixed coat dry brushed on. My goal is to give it various amounts of wear on different pieces similar to that of a real MG34 due to the interchanging of parts. Thus the receiver will have medium wear, the heat shroud/cooling fans will have light wear, the flash hider/gas blowback will have light wear, and the Bipod will have heavy wear. The majority of the wear of this weapon is intended to look like it came from handling the weapon rather than from abuse, thus it will have more a faded look to it that implies it was caused by the oils in the skin rather than it being dropped and dragged. Although I will include wear on random parts that protrude to indicate some sort of physical abuse albeit minor, whether it was dropped or banged into something. After all my wear and tear is painted on I will patina it, to better fade in the wear as well as seal the finished product, and if it looks good on test strips of plastic, I will cover the patina in a non-gloss clear coat.

Edited by Darth Callidus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jake, sounds like you made your homework and have exact knowledge of different weathering techniques. Can't wait to see you starting this project. Following...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you haven’t noticed. I forgot to actually photograph the building. But, my pieces are now glued on with e6000 glue and I’m getting ready to paint it tomorrow. Provided I haven’t forgot anything left to place and glue.

c720f877344361b3385a0861f0c2be39.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats on your DLT-19 kit purchase, Jake!  Sounds like you have a plan, which is always a great idea...  Not sure how far you are going screen accuracy wise, but note that all the stocks on the 4 known screen used ones were made of a brown(ish) Bakelite (a form of plastic), and the handles (grips) were black plastic, so I would be leery about adding handling marks ("metal" showing) in those areas.  

You may want to find a 1 inch (slightly conical) disc that was attached to the top of the grip as shown below.  These were added for the films, and not part of the original MG-34.

 

I can't see the fins up close, but they should be tapered at the ends with a notch to hold the wires in place.

 

QDd977S.jpg?1   uaUah8D.jpg?1  AHqRQ0y.jpgVzVsyLq.jpg

 

Looking forward to following the rest of your build!!  :popcorn:

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had considered buying one those myself. I had some reservations due to the 3D PRINTING.

While it looks awesome , I was concerned about durability during trooping.

 Do you think it is something that you will have to handle with extra care ?

Definitely the less expensive way to go compared to something like a Hyperfirm .

Just wondering how much durability is lost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, tydirium1 said:

I had considered buying one those myself. I had some reservations due to the 3D PRINTING.

While it looks awesome , I was concerned about durability during trooping.

 Do you think it is something that you will have to handle with extra care ?

Definitely the less expensive way to go compared to something like a Hyperfirm .

Just wondering how much durability is lost.

There are both good and "not so good" aspects of 3D printed ones.  The good is that they can be relatively inexpensive, are VERY light and the details are nice.  The "not so good" is that yes, they can be somewhat fragile, and depending on which printer you use they can take a LOT of prep-work.

When I received my kit (not the same one as shown above) each piece was covered with pretty heavy print lines.  I figure I have about 12-15 solid hours worth of sanding and filling involved, as I wanted each one as smooth as glass (I'm kinda' OCD that way).  I drilled out the entire center and reinforced it with a 5/16ths aluminum rod to help with durability.

It still seems a bit fragile, but I only use it with my Hero armor and since I don't troop in that much it's mostly for display.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's kinda what I figured. Maybe I'll get one just for display.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×