Fish's ANOVOS Build Thread - Aspiring for L3

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Looks like the elastic for the chest and back is a little too loose, causing the back to droop more than it should. Also, the snap for the shoulder bell needs to be moved towards the front, I had it right smack dab in the center, combined with rear drag, the shoulder bell didn't slope forward enough to close the chest/bell gap.

 

 

[Pretzel[TK]]

Full Steam ahead. Mis-haps are bound to happen. I had to re-do a few things during my build. It is all a process. I had to re-do the center snap TWICE. 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I think I need to shorten the biceps, they kind of get pushed downwards by my deltoids. What do you guys think?

 

 

 

 

I also think I need to tighten up the shoulder bell's lower, inner strap- it has the possibility to stray a little too far from the arm when the bell moves (rotates out).

 

 

 

 

[Commander Gree[501st]]

29 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I think I need to shorten the biceps, they kind of get pushed downwards by my deltoids. What do you guys think?

 

 

 

 

I also think I need to tighten up the shoulder bell's lower, inner strap- it has the possibility to stray a little too far from the arm when the bell moves (rotates out).

 

 

 

 

You need to pull your biceps up about 2 inches. and trim the return edge off the shoulders

[Commander Gree[501st]]

And yes, that strap should be pretty tight, no super tight, but it shouldn't sag like that when its off you

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

4 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

You need to pull your biceps up about 2 inches. and trim the return edge off the shoulders

I can pull up, but my shoulders don't want to fit in the current bicep funnel, that's why I was mentioning shortening the bicep tops. I believe if I take 2 inches off, I can pull them up higher by 2 inches.

On 6/21/2015 at 10:32 AM, gazmosis said:

All return edges average 1/4 inch(6 mm) but can be up to but not much more than 3/8 inch (9 ish mm)

Chest: bottom edge against ab. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal to none around neck.

Back: bottom against kidney. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal around neck.

Kidney: top, bottom and slight in kidney notch. None on sides.

Butt: all sides

Ab: top under chest, lesser return edge around cod area. None on sides

Shoulders: none on edge against chest. Return edge against arm.

Biceps: minimal to none. Some leave return edge some remove it all together.

Forearms: none at wrist opening even up into the square indent ridge. Minimal to none at elbow side. Your choice

Thighs: return edge on tops and bottom.

Shins: return edge on top. None against boots.

I've being using this list for return edge trimming. Just double checking, taking off the return edge on the shoulder bells is ok?

[Commander Gree[501st]]

Also! the bicep with the "Thumb print" should be on the left arm

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

6 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

Also! the bicep with the "Thumb print" should be on the left arm

 

It's on the left, that picture is taken in front of a mirror

[Commander Gree[501st]]

1 minute ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I can pull up, but my shoulders don't want to fit in the current bicep funnel, that's why I was mentioning shortening the bicep tops. I believe if I take 2 inches off, I can pull them up higher by 2 inches.

I've being using this list for return edge trimming. Just double checking, taking off the return edge on the shoulder bells is ok?

the only return edge you HAVE to have or do anything with is the wrist side of the forearms, those have to go, everything else is your preference and due to fitment. you could take every return edge off if you wanted. The reason most keep them, is to give the armor "thickness" but its not necessary. the other reason is if you want the traditional strapping system inside the armor, but that has nothing to do with your shoulders, the shoulder return can come right off no problem I worry that if you cut the bicep, it will then be too short, and with any kind of movement, the shoulder will slip overtop and wedge itself inside. IDK honestly you may have made them too small (to put your arm in)

 

[Commander Gree[501st]]

1 minute ago, fishgoh0nk said:

It's on the left, that picture is taken in front of a mirror

gotcha just wanted to be sure. sorry im throwing a lot at you in several different comments lol

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

8 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

IDK honestly you may have made them too small (to put your arm in)

 

Maybe i'll give it a bath and change the cylinder orientation - right now it's kind of flat where the "front" of the bicep pushes against my actual bicep and deltoid, If i change the shape so it's flat on inner and outer, maybe my arm will fit better.

[Commander Gree[501st]]

5 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Maybe i'll give it a bath and change the cylinder orientation - right now it's kind of flat where the "front" of the bicep pushes against my actual bicep and deltoid, If i change the shape so it's flat on inner and outer, maybe my arm will fit better.

The bicep should be round all the way around. for best fit.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

27 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

The bicep should be round all the way around. for best fit.

Got it! Further analysis reveals that my lats/rear delts are pushing down the bicep in the rear. I'll need to take off more material and the biceps will continue to sit high when my arms are at my sides.

[Commander Gree[501st]]

yea if your gonna need room inside the bicep, take the rest of that return edge off. a tiny bit of return can make a big difference between comfort and wrong fitment. I would also suggest that on your right bicep, round that top corner off. it looks painful lol

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, Commander Gree said:

yea if your gonna need room inside the bicep, take the rest of that return edge off. a tiny bit of return can make a big difference between comfort and wrong fitment. I would also suggest that on your right bicep, round that top corner off. it looks painful lol

Yea, I agree - I trimmed off more return so there'd be less outer pull. I'll decide whether i'll need to trim off more once the new elastic straps dry and I finish trimming the rear biceps.

 

Edited July 24, 2018 by fishgoh0nk
i think i'll leave more of the bicep alone...if i keep turning it, feels ok

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Got some nooshooz!

 

 

Fits pretty well, my feet vary from  9.5-11.5, seems like the average shoe maker fits well at 10. I ordered an IB 11, and the width is very good, but I have a good toe clearance about .5-.6 inches.

 

Now I can start adjusting the calves!

 

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the calves to not tilt outwards. I'm not sure if it's because the bottom crescent edge on the inside is longer/closer to the ankle bone that the outer. 

 

(Left edge is on right ankle bone)

 

Not only does the ankle bone push against the edge and tilts the calves' top side outwards, the shoe also gives it a rise. I trimmed as much off as i could without making them "even". Should the be "even?" or should the inside be longer than the outside?

 

Notice I'm tilting my leg INWARDS to get the calve to sit perpendicular to the floor. If I stood up straight, the calve would go to the left.

 

 

 

 

Biceps:

 

I tried using bicep hooks, but it appears that the hook length needs to be about 4 inches long, 2 inches to close the gap between bottom of the bicep cutout and 2 inches to be glued. I decided to forego the hooks and use elastic straps and snaps.

 

 

I plan to glue about 4inches and leave 1-1.5 inches for some tautness when attaching to the shoulder's inner elastic strap.

 

I'm excited, can't wait finish!

 

 

[Commander Gree[501st]]

4 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Got some nooshooz!

 

 

Fits pretty well, my feet vary from  9.5-11.5, seems like the average shoe maker fits well at 10. I ordered an IB 11, and the width is very good, but I have a good toe clearance about .5-.6 inches.

 

Now I can start adjusting the calves!

 

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the calves to not tilt outwards. I'm not sure if it's because the bottom crescent edge on the inside is longer/closer to the ankle bone that the outer. 

 

(Left edge is on right ankle bone)

 

Not only does the ankle bone push against the edge and tilts the calves' top side outwards, the shoe also gives it a rise. I trimmed as much off as i could without making them "even". Should the be "even?" or should the inside be longer than the outside?

 

Notice I'm tilting my leg INWARDS to get the calve to sit perpendicular to the floor. If I stood up straight, the calve would go to the left.

 

 

 

 

Biceps:

 

I tried using bicep hooks, but it appears that the hook length needs to be about 4 inches long, 2 inches to close the gap between bottom of the bicep cutout and 2 inches to be glued. I decided to forego the hooks and use elastic straps and snaps.

 

 

I plan to glue about 4inches and leave 1-1.5 inches for some tautness when attaching to the shoulder's inner elastic strap.

 

I'm excited, can't wait finish!

 

 

You may have them on the wrong legs. if you look at the calves there is one side that shoots inward more than the outside. that goes to the inside of the leg. trying switching them around. unless your kit is marked, then im not sure. but you shouldn't feel awkward in them 

 

And the Bicep hooks should work. if they aren't then something with your biceps isn't fitting right. the way your bicep is supposed to tuck under your shoulder there should be no issue using the hook. I have the hook, and on the "outside" interior I put a strap to keep them up and in the shoulder bell. I put the hooks for accuracy and stability. I have never seen anyone put a snap/strap at that location, so let us know hos that turns out. I think your gonna have some irritation and rubbing on the armor that your not gonna like

Edited July 26, 2018 by Commander Gree

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

4 hours ago, Commander Gree said:

You may have them on the wrong legs. if you look at the calves there is one side that shoots inward more than the outside. that goes to the inside of the leg. trying switching them around. unless your kit is marked, then im not sure. but you shouldn't feel awkward in them 

 

And the Bicep hooks should work. if they aren't then something with your biceps isn't fitting right. the way your bicep is supposed to tuck under your shoulder there should be no issue using the hook. I have the hook, and on the "outside" interior I put a strap to keep them up and in the shoulder bell. I put the hooks for accuracy and stability. I have never seen anyone put a snap/strap at that location, so let us know hos that turns out. I think your gonna have some irritation and rubbing on the armor that your not gonna like

The ANOVOS calves are a bit weird, they were sent incorrectly marked to a lot of people, my playing with the pieces resulted in swapping the left and right inners. This fixed the issue of having 2 blade curves on the right leg and 2 calf muscle buldges on the right. However, this also resulted in more material to trim on the left and less material to work with on the right. The result of the re-matching corroborated with what people had done online (pieces 24+27, 25+28), so I think I'm good, just not sure if the lower edges (near the foot) should be roughly the same length or not and whether I should employ trimming to fix the angles of wear.

 

I think the snaps feel ok, I have some meaty arms and a soft armpit, where the snaps sit so I don't feel them at all. Using a black strap material also gives the bicep some illusion of a float. I'll post pictures of it  worn soon.

 

 

Edited July 26, 2018 by fishgoh0nk
Numbers

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

On 2/1/2016 at 6:13 PM, ukswrath said:

3c. Shin Pre-assembly

 

NOTE. Your shins may be mis-labeled by Anovos. The shins come labeled in pairs 24/25, 27/28. A good majority of customers are stating they should be 24/27 and 25/28. Regardless of the numbering system when assembled they should resemble the following image. Note the long swooping outer edge verses the shorter inner. These should resemble the anatomy of your legs. Double check before final assembly.

 

Ah, forgot how much information Tony's build guide HAD! Definitely should've gone back to read this (pre assembly) again. I see here he's experiencing that same offset.

[kman[TK]]

LOL Did Tony jack my photo and put it into his build thread?  That picture of the shins is mine, complete with my mouse-drawn red lines done with MS Paint in a hurry while at the office, LOL. (Not that I mind; I just wasn't aware!)

 

James, until you actually glue your shins together (and are certain they're in the right place!), don't sand them smooth where they join.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

18 minutes ago, kman said:

LOL Did Tony jack my photo and put it into his build thread?  That picture of the shins is mine, complete with my mouse-drawn red lines done with MS Paint in a hurry while at the office, LOL. (Not that I mind; I just wasn't aware!)

 

James, until you actually glue your shins together (and are certain they're in the right place!), don't sand them smooth where they join.

HAHA! That means your suit's super good. Good illustrations too! And good advice! Already on it! Just added the inner splint and gave my self another 2mm to play with - there's enough room for the 20mm coverstrip to look mighty good and gives me more room to play with when working on the closure.

 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

what's the best way to put on the shins?? since the front is sealed up by a coverstrip, would you have top open it up like a hotdog bun and place your leg in like a hotdog? Or is it better to open it up slightly, then slide your foot in from the top?

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, kman said:

James, until you actually glue your shins together (and are certain they're in the right place!), don't sand them smooth where they join.

Question about this - don't sand the closure part? or the front cover strip part?

 

1 hour ago, fishgoh0nk said:

what's the best way to put on the shins?? since the front is sealed up by a coverstrip, would you have top open it up like a hotdog bun and place your leg in like a hotdog? Or is it better to open it up slightly, then slide your foot in from the top?

Still wondering about this - i'm scared about the hotdog method. what if the cover strip decides to pop off after multiple wearings?

 

 

Both calves curing:

 

I gave it a heat-gun blast to bake in the splint as well as relieve any tension that may have formed when held in wearable position. I should've sanded the interior where I would be gluing the bra strap closures while the 2 halves were apart... Looks like I'll be a leg plumber for the sanding bit, once the front cover strip is applied, which will most likely be in 2 days after full curing.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Adding some more progression pics and questions in a new post to avoid confusion- I still have some unanswered questions from my last post, if you guys could read that as well, that'd be much appreciated!

 

 

 

 

8 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I think the snaps feel ok, I have some meaty arms and a soft armpit, where the snaps sit so I don't feel them at all. Using a black strap material also gives the bicep some illusion of a float. I'll post pictures of it  worn soon.

 

So I was getting in some pictures of using snaps instead of bicep hooks - They turned out OK, they're very comfortable, but a little more cumbersome to snap with one hand, as you need to grab the shoulder bell stap, pinch it, and with the same hand snap on the bicep snap.

 

I think my shoulder straps' snaps needs a few adjustments as the bells have too much of a gap with the chest plate. What do you guys think?

 

 

The Green is where I want to be, I think I can achieve this by doing 3 things:

 

1. Raising the shoulder bell to shoulder by shortening the snap position.

 

2. Moving the inner shoulder bell snap more towards the front to provide a rear rotation:

 

3. Lastly if 1 and 2 don't give me enough closure, remove entirely the return edge from the bottom of the shoulder bell:

 

Pesos for your thoughts?

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Well, that was brutal. Removing and dethreading, then re-sewing 4 dritz snaps on is tedious!! Ughhhhh.. but it's done!

 

 

Tired, will try a fit with the whole get-up tomorrow. Hopefully someone can provide some guidance on donning the shins without breaking them