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Posted

Finished my 5th horseman blaster. Not happy with the paint. I think it’s so cold my patience didn’t allow the paint to fully cure so the finish is t what I wanted.

 

Electrics were a slave Leia as I tried to make everything independently with mini miles plugs made it hard to keep track of what was what

 

Now off to sand the trooper again

 

 

 

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The plug is one of the magnet connection type. Just clips on.

 

 

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Posted

Bracers done.

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Found a polyester like bondo as the epoxy worked like crap and needed redoing

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Posted

Lots of sanding. Finished the forearms and thighs.
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About to glue the thermal detonator together
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And I realized that it needs more cutting to make it more flush. This certainly is the worst made part of the kit

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Posted

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That was a lot of work. Did a bit more spot filler after this photo. Looks even now, but i suspect that after primer some issues still stand out.

Definitely the worst part of the kit.


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Posted

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Had to change primer but no bad interaction. All primed, now sanding smooth.

Bit worried my garage is currently 8’Celsius and how this will effect the white gloss.


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Posted

Make a plastic tarp paint booth placing a small fan at one end for ventilation (leave off for now). Throw in some spot lights for 30+ minutes to warm up the air, well unless you like runs ;), Lightly water the ground, turn your fan on low and paint. Good luck

Posted

I have used a portable electric heater before and had it running for a couple of hours to warm up the garage, it helped a lot in the cold weather.

 

I would suggest some heat source or you could end up with runs and a dull finish.

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Posted

Floor heater is good also, the reason I mention spot light is not only do they create heat they help eliminate shadowing, but yea. 

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Posted

All sanded. Was easier than I expected. All nice and smooth though. Thanks to these Norton sanding pads (claims to be 220 but I think it’s finer than that)
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And here’s the primer I used. A cheap filler primer intended for car plastic which is much ha see to stick to than sanded abs
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Posted (edited)
On 7/6/2018 at 7:05 AM, darthkenny said:

Does the TD go here or here?

I'd say line it up with the bottom/belt first, as the back should go over the top of the TD and cover it.

 

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Edited by Ensi
Posted

Thanks everyone. I dressed yoke and an and there’s heaps of overlap so I’ve trimmed the top down so it hangs on top and sits on the bottom. Best of both worlds.


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Posted

Yoke, chest and abs are magneted.

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Soft terry cloth like material fabric glued inside the chest.

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I think the yoke needs a trim. It fits on easily but I can’t take it off myself with out stressing the plastic too much.
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I’ve glued on the greeblie snaps
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Unfortunately the biceps shadow for the clips looks like crap so I’ve had to make it up with tamiya epoxy putty and spot filler.

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Posted

All parts painted with first coat. Weird chip came out of the middle of the top of the back plate.

Some textures showing up at some of the puttyed seams which annoys me.

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Posted

Depending on how thick the coats of paint is can affect the finish, thinners can soften spot putty and filler. See how it’s looking once it’s completely dried.

Posted

Letting the paint cure before sanding. I found this at such a ridiculous low price. Not accurate but after paint it should be good for photos with kids.

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Posted

Hi Kenton. I can relate to being unable to resist the toy version. Before I started working on my 3D print version I got the original nerf gun and modded it with the guts of a toy blaster for sounds and barrrel flash, and added a white LED for the front torch and EL panels for the red lights on the sides. They can come up pretty reasonable with a bit of effort... 

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