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Timberwoof's Anovos ANH TK Build Thread


Timberwoof

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1 hour ago, Harbinger said:

If you unscrew them make sure to leave the bolts on above the cut, they’ll essentially re-thread the cut end afterward when you remove them.

Yup. Best practice would be to bevel the cut ends of the bolts. American bolts are better in this regard than German ones. On my BMW motorcycle, the bolts will thread only if you get them juuust right into their threads. Guh. 

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I got a Dremel 4000/34, which comes with a nice starter variety of bits and attachments. I even read through the instructions before plugging in that little beast. 
I had fun dremelating the Anovos ammo belt to prepare it for the Imperial Issue cloth belt. I used a cutting wheel to cut away at the insides of the rivets. This worked very well: it heated the rivet which melted the plastic that was holding the other side in place and burned just enough of the cotton belt so that I could remove the rivet with a pair of pliers. It isn't exactly the procedure I had in mind, but it worked. I sliced off the square button covers off fairly easily with a boxcutter and flat screwdriver. I ground down the lumps and glued some reinforcement to the insides of the ammo belt where it will be riveted to the new belt. 
I practiced some ancient Anglo-Saxon words because I cannot find my anvil and tool for setting the snaps. The tool I did find is a bit too thick to do it quite right. No, it needs the correct anvil and tool. Sigh. I decided that in the lull between projects it would be a good idea to tidy up my work shop. That'll learn me! 
I did cut down one of the four helmet ear screws. That did what I wanted, but I think the biggest, thickest wheel was not the right one to use. I'll try it again with a thinner one. High speed and intermittent cutting is probably the best approach here. 
For delicate and finish work on a helmet or armor, I'd still use a file, sandpaper, and that fun 3M sandpaper sponge thing. Power tools, back off! 

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I Dremulated the other three screws with the thinner cutting wheel. One of them needed deburring.
DSC_7492.jpg

 

The results make me happy: No more sticky-outy screws. 
DSC_7494.jpg

 

And the pads lay much better inside the helmet. They are much less likely to come loose now. I told them that if they did not stick to the inside of the helmet, I'd smear some E-6000 on their behinds. Nothing like the threat of some white armor discipline to get the pieces in line. 
DSC_7496.jpg

 

I also started reworking the belt. Now to check my checklist of things that need attention. 

• smudge on ammo belt - sanded off; done

• shoulder bell return edges cut down - done

• tiny gray paint triangles on the frown - done

• holster attachment to the belt

• recombobulate the chest armor assembly with everything as tight as it will go. (I'm an elf.) 

• check it all for fitment

• photos

• resubmit 

 

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58 minutes ago, Timberwoof said:

The first thing you should do upon opening your Dremel kit is to photograph it.

This will be the key to unlock Achievement: Repacking your Dremel Kit

As opposed to the "stuff everything in a cardboard box" achievement...

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1 hour ago, jethroskull said:

As opposed to the "stuff everything in a cardboard box" achievement...

... as opposed to "leaving everything out on a bench so you have to hunt for missing parts later" achievement ..... lol 

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Dress Rehearsal

 

I would like some advice on fitting. Here's me with my completed Imperial Issue belt and holster and reduced return edge on the shoulder bells. I cinched up the shoulder straps on the chest and back and made the codpiece and kidney/posterior fight tight with a little overlap. The whole chest and abdomen feel comfortable. Overhead lighting is two LED strips; that gouge in my kidney pate is a reflection. The camera is at ~35" above the floor, half my height. That's why you can see those snaps. In my right hand is the remote control: no assistant. 

 

There are some minor issues I know about and intend to attend to when I do my Real Photos. The belt is not fastened right. That's Really Hard to get right on my lonesome. And the Thermal Detonator has gone missing. (The next step is to tear my work room apart piece by piece to find it.) There are some pieces that are walpyjod: the back and kidney don't meet quite right; the shoulder bells need to be rotated forward. The arms need attention too: the biceps need to be actually attached to the shoulder bells, which I have not figured out how to do on my own. And argh, the right ammo box fell into the thigh while I was taking the photos.

 

I find getting into this armor frustrating, what with all the details that need attention. In comparison, I can get into and out of my fursuit by myself fairly easily, even with the zipper in the back! Are my expectations in line with reality?

What concerns me the most is the fit of the thighs and shins. I'm 5'10" tall and weigh 145#. I used to have Thighs of Steel and a Skater's Butt from playing hockey, but I am basically an elf. The thighs seem big and clunky and I think the shins are too high. Where is the bottom end of the shins supposed to go, and where the knees? How well (tightly) should the thighs fit me? 

 

dress_rehearsal.jpg

 

Here's my helmet: I added grey to the ends of the frown and tended to some of the overspray. 
DSC_7542_helmet.jpg

 

At this point I'm aiming for Basic. Advanced levels will require $ for boots and wrist guards. Later. 

 

Off-Topic: Here's my fursuit, a commission (Further Confusion 2013): 

timberwoof_dsc_5640_1200.jpg

 

And here's my space suit, which I made (MileHiCon 2017): 
TimberwoofSpaceCadet.jpg

 

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Looking good. Not to be the bearer of bad news but it looks as if you have assembled the left outer bicep section up side down. Not sure how it happened, or wasn't noticed earlier. Can you post a couple photos of each bicep?

 

Yours

5a46c475790c1_lbicep.JPG.4f8f55c8739a88b3f28616870e1f4efc.JPG

 

Should look like this

5a46c48463a6f_LbicepC.JPG.883eb99f98db35cf208b516c6e8433c2.JPG

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I did. The right side was correct; the left was obviously (now that I'm an experienced builder) wrong. E-6000 is the correct glue to use. I gently pried the parts apart (planning ahead of time which side keeps the cover strips!), cleaned off the glue, glued the parts together correctly, clamped, taped, and clamped with magnets. 
Two clues I missed when putting them together were that the bicep parts are a cm or two wider at the top end than the bottom, and the bottom ends are not 90° to the main axis. IIRC, those were among the first parts I worked on. 

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25 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

It's usually in it's own bag with all the connection strapping. Correct?

Usually. I had already assembled it and put it back in a plastic bag so it can be safely stored in the box. Somehow it ended up in that bag of mold scraps, and i had been walking by it several times a day for a few days while madly looking for it. It's visible in that image. Sort of. 

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6 minutes ago, Timberwoof said:

Usually. I had already assembled it and put it back in a plastic bag so it can be safely stored in the box. Somehow it ended up in that bag of mold scraps, and i had been walking by it several times a day for a few days while madly looking for it. It's visible in that image. Sort of. 

lol that could have been bad haha

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