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shadan

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by shadan

  1. Excellent. I would totally recommend removing all the teeth paint and starting afresh. I did it myself a while back and it turned out quite nicely. Despite someone above saying the ear gaps are fine we felt that they were quite excessive, especially noting we could see the plate joins behind them. Potentially some careful screw tightening could help decrease this gap (and no says it has to be flush!) but it may not work. Didn’t you have a completed helmet on the way that you were waiting on before submitting again?
  2. Super easy to fix those teeth. Get some Humbrol Thinners and an earbud (qtip / cotton swab) and using a small amount gently rub against the paint. It will soon all come off cleanly allowing you to repaint the teeth.
  3. Well I did a new photo shoot and wouldn’t you know it, that damn hand plate came loose again and spoiled every image. Completely over it right now.
  4. It is 3D printed but it’s something I got off eBay or maybe ETSY ages ago. I’ll see if I can dig up old emails. It’s not bad hey!
  5. With the blaster, all I really needed to do (I think?) was to paint the t-tracks. I had originally planned to do a complete respray but decided to get out a paint brush instead. After doing the t-tracks I also painted the main grip again as it had a few trooping scars. I’ve been trooping it with my ST, yes I know it’s not technically the right E-11 but here we are. In the end both the t-tracks and main grip have a more plastic look. Will take pics once it’s all dried and cured. I also re-glued one of the latex hand plates to the gloves again. Just some adjustments to the kidney to butt connections and I’m ready for a L2 photo shoot I think!
  6. You can totally use CA glue of course! Just trying to help prevent any future problems you may encounter
  7. I would really caution against using a Cyanoacrylate glue. I mean it will work and you’ll have strong joins, but you’ll need to be 100% certain that every join is exactly where it needs to be and not have to be changed down the line, or risk causing damage to your kit. That’s the beauty of E-6000, it’s super strong but it can be 100% cured and still be pulled apart with no damage to the plastic. I go through heaps of it here in Canberra with one of my other projects. It’s quite easy to order in.
  8. What kind of glue did you end up using, if you don’t mind me asking? Something that is able to be pulled apart without damaging your work is a must!
  9. That would have been handy. I go through so many tubes of that stuff!
  10. +1 for E-6000 at Spotlight as @gmrhodes13said. You can get it cheaper on sales etc through eBay but Spotlight if you need it in a hurry. Where about here in Australia are you based? EDIT: Ah Knightfall Garrison. Greetings from the Southern Cross Garrison!
  11. Still to do... 1. Adjust the strapping on the butt plate as the sides stick out a little. 2. Re-glue the hand plates AGAIN as they keep peeling off. 3. Fill those tiny gaps on the front and back of the thighs 4. Repaint my E-11
  12. Thanks man. Just hope it’s close enough. I can easily pull it apart to try again so no huge concern there.
  13. This is my sniper knee. It was so hard to get it looking like this, lots of head scratching to try and work out how to get it into position. (This is the outer and better side) (This side is not so great) (Not the best on the inside either)
  14. Thanks for that. I’ll post some more close ups of the knee plate soon. I think it’s close but it was a pain to try and position. It just did not want to sit like I see on other kits and as required for those higher levels.
  15. TK81194 requesting detachment access please and thank you. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=23368
  16. Yes definitely. I did mean to mention that above lol
  17. Ok. Fine I thought I’d better try kitting up completely as I hadn’t worn it all at the same time yet. @mynock was over having a beer so what better time to try right? It definitely helped to identify a few issues, mainly with adjusting the strapping etc. These weren’t meant to be approval shots but I wanted to see how everything looked so figured we’d take the standard poses... Alright, so the issues I need to fix: 1. The plastic shoulder straps need to be angled out slightly to better meet the back plate. This may help with covering the white elastic also which is too visible. A bit of adjusting the shoulder bell and bicep up my arm more could also help with the tension. 2. Need to tighten the back-to-kidney strapping elastics. The gap is big I know but it isn’t HUGE. With my height it’s a bit of an issue. I want to find a good balance there without making the back plate look too low. 3. Adjust the side strapping on the butt plate as the sides stick out a little. It’s really noticeable in that ‘action’ shot above. 4. Rotate limbs better next time I take photos, and do the shins up properly. 5. Re-glue the hand plates AGAIN as they keep peeling off. 6. Seems like the gaps in my legs are quite large. Not much I can do about that! Curse my long legs. 7. Add the elastics to the shoulder straps. This may also assist with point 1. 8. I’m concerned the sniper knee plate isn’t quite aligned perfectly. It’s a tricky thing to get right. I may revisit this later. But for a first kit up I’m pretty happy. Dressing issues always happen and it’s good to see how the kit sits on me from all the angles. The end is insight I think.
  18. Ran out of steam (and holidays) on this. See you in another two years!
  19. I don’t believe I mentioned the shoulder bells to you. I’ve been seeking clarification on the s-trim before replying.
  20. Yes, you are 100% correct. One of my garrison mates pointed it out when I did it :/ It will be done!
  21. I thought I’d better include some info on my E-11. It’s nothing too special, not fancy electronics or anything, just a DoopyDoos build I finished a little while back. Making the scope bracket was pretty simple (I used the references here of course) and the only other mods I did was to replace the moulded hex bolts with actual bolts. I did make all the joins super strong. Everything is either pinned or screwed in place. I definitely learnt my lessons with the F-11D I built a while back. I must go fix that some day...
  22. Cheers. I completely missed that curve, very glad you pointed it out!
  23. I was thinking of trimming maybe 10-15mm off the top and bottom of the bells and then following the curve around from there. It will definitely sit much better/closer against the chest plate if I do this. Unsure yet just how the bicep will sit (It’s just held there with painters tape in this image) but once the elastic is on the shoulder bell it should be ok. I think...
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