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Posted (edited)

I only cut out four tooth at each side and painted the 5th black. For centurion, do you think that is acceptable?

Edited by JS1
Posted (edited)

I bought 25 magnets with 10mm diameter and used clamps as well. You can never have enough magnets. ;)

 

For the 5th tooth: you can leave it white or paint it black or grey. Either way is good for Centurion.

Here some examples from the Photo references gallery:

9f486569a36e8a3a69cfd8aec7d46535.jpg

 

Cheers

Christian

Edited by Novak Dimon
Posted (edited)

Some more paint-in-progress pics. 

 

ANHHelmetSeriesx%202.jpg

The start and end position of each stripe is marked.  The rest is done freehand.

Edited by JS1
Posted

Four teeth were cut out at each side, the smaller fifth one painted black. I purposly made some rough cuts like the originals.

 

ANHHelmetSeriesx%204.jpg

Posted

Finishing the Hovi-Mix mic tip greeblies. The mesh front inserts will be installed after painting these black at the outside, white at the inside

 

ANHHelmetSeriesx%206.jpg

Posted

Some overview shots of the helmet . Only the mesh fronts of the Hovi-mix are still missing. (forgot all about them).

 

Because I aim for Centurion level, I painted one little black rank stripe on each ear.

 

I hope all looks ok ? What do you think ?

 

ANHHelmet%201.jpg

 

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ANHHelmet%203.jpg

 

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ANHHelmet%205.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

This will be next, but I need to buy some magnets, glue and read .. read .. read ...  :)  I still have no clue how to start this.

 

 

ANHArmour_1.jpg

Posted (edited)

Never seen black paint on a frown indentation i would remove it and paint the 5th tooth gray, helmet looks great the left ear from viewers perspective could be slimmed down as its really thick, and your vocoder could use a touchup to round off the tops as yours is sqaure<br><br>

good work so far, starting on the forearms and bicep would be a good way to go! looking forward to more progress :)

Edited by MrSnrub
Posted

Great work with the paintjob. <br>

But I agree with MrSnrub that the vocoder needs to be refined. <br>

The ear he mentioned has truly enough material to make it a little bit slimmer. <br>

Cheers <br>

Christian

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi all,

A small bit of progress. I started with the left lower arm and before I cut away more abs , I like to ask your opinion.

 

I would like to cut out the round piece of plastic marked with a pencil at the elbow end. Also, because the underside near the wrist is not straight and a bit long I think, would like to cut along the bottom edge of the brown tape.  So the bottom will be flat.

 

What do you think ?

 

 

LeftLowerArm%201.jpg

 

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LeftLowerArm%203.jpg

 

LeftLowerArm%204.jpg

 

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LeftLowerArm%206.jpg

Posted (edited)

I did the same with the right lower arm. I temporarily fitted everything with tape. Also, i like to cut of the lower part at the wrist end, just around the lower part of the brown tape.

 

rightlowerarm.jpg

 

I ensured that the two lower arm section are roughly the same length

 

rightandleftlowerarm%201.jpg

 

They are not 100 equal in length and I hope that is still ok for centurion. The reason is the I wanted to have the same width of abs left on both pieces below the lowest tab. (11 or 12).

 

rightandleftlowerarm%202.jpg

 

So, what do you think ? OK to start cutting ?  

 

Thanks for yr help :)

Edited by JS1
Posted

So what do you think ?

 

Also, does anyone know if this it's  a critical item for approval if the left and right forearm scopp at the elbow are not identical in size ?

 

Thanks for all feedback!

Posted

hi Guys

 

I really need some feedback on the above. I hope I'm on the right track?

 

Also, I need advice on the backplate. Here three photos of today. The lower parts (rear & front), kidney plate and front plate seem to fit nicely, but the back plate is too short and does not reach the kidney...  What can I do to fix this ? Can I cut out the neck area so the front plate comes higher ? I'm stuck it seems. 

 

Thanks Johan

 

 

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Posted

If possible, some close-up photos of the back/chest plate connections would help.  How close are they together in the pics above?  You can reduce the kidney/back gap some by extending the distance with the shoulder bridge.

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you have your undersuit yet ?? Would suggest now your working on sizing that you wear it this will give clearer indication of fit and placement. As Joesph suggested it's normal to have a 2 inch gap between chest and back in the shoulder area this should help the back plate drop down towards the kidney plate. Have a look a the EIB and centurion submissions there is normally good close up shots of the shoulder area.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the tips. I added some moire photos. Unfortunatly I do not have the undersuit yet (might take a long time, its in backorder, but I will wear something similar instead).  As you can see, I already have a 2" gap between the upper plates.   I was thinking cutting out a lot of the neck area (not sure really)  , so the front plate can go higher and the lower plate will go down as a result ?  But I need to cut out a lot I think...  do I also need a return edge in the neck for centurion level ?

 

Thanks again !

Johan

 

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