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Rubies E11 mod


artimorty

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Ok. Let's see how tapatalk behaves today...
Yesterday I made the fake mechanism for the front part of the folding stock. I previously had cut out a rectangular shape on the stock elbow to hold the pieces.
Then I glued a sintra piece in the middle of the cut. After that, I cut two small plastic tube sections that were glued one on each side of the first piece. To handle and hold them in place while gluing, I used a screw as seen on the picture.

971f0e7b5ef86365eb33e705b2d4b2ae.png

Once the glue is cured I covered the small holes the screw left with some acrylic putty.
After this, I made another piece out of more sintra to cover those first two.
1241cc4dc06a28ed99674f5f4668d3a5.png

And this is how I did this. Happy with it. Thanks for reading.


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Edited by artimorty
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi again.

It took me a while but some nice progress last two days have taken me to completion... first I went to finish the scope. For that, added two thin stripes of plastic from a "for sale" sign, one at the front and the other at the rear. Then I drilled holes and screwed in position the tiny screws on the front.e066ed8778f52674ca0ebf8ba8b0325e.png

After that, went to finish the front sight. I built a piece out of two tiny parts of different gauge sintra sheets, then drilled and screwed a hollowed hex screw.

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Inside it I glued the sight itself. Then was time to flatten the part inside the sights to accommodate this new piece and then repeated the impression trick on the new sights.

90f2852ba4d85082aa49dc8aa9c6160b.png

 

And well, except for the transparent plastic on the counter numbers (and that has to be completed once painted) , I can't think of any other mod I could go for... so THAT'S ALL!!!! the building time is over! At last!

 

Today I've been correcting some spots, filling minor defects, sanding here and there and starting to prepare the thing for painting. I've to mask some areas and thinking about the logic steps for painting it all... masking the bolt, the slot, the holes in the barrel and in the folding stock, hitting it all with adhesive promoter and black primer... would be the first steps.

But for now, here is how it's looking waiting for the paint job... behold!!!

 

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I'm very proud of how much it has changed and happily surprised about how well it has came out. It's becoming a decent small e11 and you have a hard time in recognizing a standard rubies below all the new crap.

Let's see if I'm up to the task on the paint job or I spoil all my efforts.

Thank you all very much for coming along with me in this long and many times tedious journey, for me it's being a really instructing and wonderful trip.

Thank you all!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi again. It's almost done! Probably this evening I could finish it. Oooooohhh I'm sooo excited and soooo proud of it... I'll try to take some good pictures later on to show it in all his beauty... in the meantime I'd like to share with you all a nice trick I came up with to mask the holes on the barrel and avoid new spray entering the inside that was already painted. It worked as a charm.
I used demake up cotton dishes cut to pieces and forced inside. They are soft enough to be pulled inside with no harm done, they are strong enough to be pulled out with no debris or very little left, and they are dense enough to hold several layers of spray without getting dumped or start leaking. You can see here how it's done and in the background a couple of those cotton dishes uncut.
395103add3ab648d16b97359f926387c.png

Here a couple of shots of the piece black primed with the holes masked using this trick. It worked perfectly.
6382d73f63f6572ea88bf8502aef50dd.png
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Thanks all for being there and stay tuned for the revealing time about to come!


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Ok. I call this done. The only one thing left is the numbers on the counter. I've tried several times to do a transparent screen like seen on the fisd blaster reference with veeeery poor results. It's clearly a process that's gonna take me a while to master and I don't want that to delay this blaster much longer. so, until further notice I call this build done. Here I post you my final reveal pics... this long journey made this:

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Into.... THIS:

 

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8836fd4c8471d1c3b848fd3bf8cac264.png

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Here is the "working" scope with reticle inside

e9c5e493e5482b207331da31ae38e07d.png

 

242a60257162c7aa3a37b8ea1a850560.png

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View from below to show the inner rod on the folding stock and the inner barrel

f66d53eb8f69638f1f1e1d3b4733cab7.png

 

In case you wonder about the painting process, I'll summarize it a little for you. After the black primer you saw on the previous post was fully dry, I went to rub all the main gun with a cloth covered in graphite, avoiding the t tracks, the counter and the scope, because I wanted all this parts to look like made of different materials. Then I lightly weathered all except the counter and the t tracks with silver and grease steel. Then I painted the silver parts on the grip. After that, weathered the scope in old gold using dry brush technic. Masking the bolt, the counter and the scope, sprayed matt varnish on the blaster. Then masking all but the handle, hit that with several layers of gloss black. Masking again all but the scope, the counter and the handle, sprayed those parts with a high gloss clear lacquer... and final touches here and there with silver, rusty black and old gold acrylic pens.

I'm more than happy how this came out!

 

And finally, here is the Pal... no longer grumpy and now the happiest trooper in the station, ready to terribly miss point black shooting those dammmmm rebels with his glorious non lethal e11 blaster.

 

042a74f68856a5408728a2c3f34b0432.png

 

Big thanks to you all for your attention, your ideas and your support!

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, djmatrix09 said:

artimorty, amazing work my friend!  I'm curious if FISD will allow this mod for a Centurion build.  Keep up the great work.  ~Andrew

Thanks Andrew! Wow, never thought of applying this for centurion... that's flattering and very kind of you. But I don't know if this worth it or if it meets the standard. And wasn't done with that goal in mind... just for a cheap way to complete a mannequin display. I also own a DD kit that sometime in the future will be the main gun in the house, but thinking that it will deserve to be displayed on its own, so this rubies is going to be the blaster for the mannequin for better or worse.

but I give you one thing there... this mod got what I modestly think is a good piece for a very low budget. I'd have to run the numbers, but definitely under 50€ and probably under 40€. Most of the things used are spare plastics and sintra foam and resins and bondo and spray cans that I already have... so in this aspect this is something to consider, to provide a cheap way to reach higher ranks for everyone, without having to spend crazy cash.

thanks again for your kind words and your support during the process. Nice to have you there all along.

cheers.

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8 hours ago, DEVOLVER said:

Incredible job man! Honestly, I think this is probably the best Rubies conversion I've seen. That hard work paid off for sure. 

Well, thank you very much Zac. It wasn't meant to come that far a mod... it just happened this way. Sometimes once you start you cannot put things down.

I'm really happy with how it came out, much better than my initial expectations, and it wasn't as difficult as you may think, tough it also has been more time consuming than what I thought it would be.

Glad you guys like it and thanks for the kind words!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/12/2017 at 6:00 PM, artimorty said:

Let me introduce you all to "the Pal". My anovos armor will be displayed on him if I ever get the chance to start that build. On the meantime, I thought that a nice blaster would be great, but something not heavy, or expensive nor delicate. The Rubies e11 can be my answer.

 

1e69054af26a0f5d6831ff92466ba14a.jpg

 

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Hey man, where did you get that mannequin? Link?

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16 hours ago, Parquette said:

Hey man, where did you get that mannequin? Link?

Hey there Reese.

The Pal was a Christmas present from my wife last winter. She got it from a local shop, one specialized in furnitures and stuff for shops and stores. Later this year I found exactly the same model on AliExpress. I'm posting here one link to that, but it seems to be the Spanish site of AliExpress and don't know if it will work for you...

 

https://m.es.aliexpress.com/s/item/32659114180.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.13bb6d89slCQJo

 

One last advice if I may... there is a whole bunch of these mannequins, most of them with turning heads and poseable wooden arms and hands (very useful) but different legs position. Mine has one foot advanced, but there is another one in standing at attention position. I think I also saw some model with poseable wooden legs as well, but much more expensive.

Hope this help.

Cheers.

 

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WOW, great work on all the many and intensive mods to really set the gold standard for modding a Rubies E-11 !!!:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

I am honored that my small modding attempted are referenced in this thread. (as currently, my blaster is the only thing holding me up from my EIB application.)

I don't know if I can take my Rubies to the level that you have done, but you have definitely shown that is CAN be done!!

 

Congratulations on a truly amazing mod, and thank you for the malicious documentation and pictures for other to follow your path :dancing-trooper:

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On 30/10/2017 at 3:45 PM, BDWC said:

WOW, great work on all the many and intensive mods to really set the gold standard for modding a Rubies E-11 !!!:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

I am honored that my small modding attempted are referenced in this thread. (as currently, my blaster is the only thing holding me up from my EIB application.)

I don't know if I can take my Rubies to the level that you have done, but you have definitely shown that is CAN be done!!

 

Congratulations on a truly amazing mod, and thank you for the malicious documentation and pictures for other to follow your path :dancing-trooper:

Hey... big thanks you to you for your compliments, Jim. Sorry about the delay answering you but been busy with Halloween costume for the kids and the lot.

Of course your build -among others- served as great inspiration for mine... in fact I used your colour pattern for the inner barrel (bright inside and flat outside) following yours. You know how this goes... taking good ideas from here and there and trying to make them work for you. Thanks again!

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  • 1 month later...
On 9/23/2017 at 8:50 AM, djmatrix09 said:

artimorty, amazing work my friend!  I'm curious if FISD will allow this mod for a Centurion build.  Keep up the great work.  ~Andrew

I am super impressed with how far you have come with this !!! You truly have set the bar for Rubies conversions.

I also, am curious if this will pass for Centurion, as I was told "no" on mine during my EIB application, but then I have not done near as much as you have.

 

{However, the CRL only points out the power cylinders and the d-rings as requirements for ANH blasters at the EIB level (which passed), but for Centurion the only remark is that Hasbro blasters are not allowed.....so who knows?}

 

Personally I MUCH prefer your final product to any of the Hyperfirm or Protarian molded blasters. The filled in scope rails especially bother me, plus you have a real cut-out for your spring and charging handle!!!

 

Again, GREAT JOB, and I will be following this thread for a while, not only to find out about the Centurion question, but because I have an extra Rubies that I am going to convert following you excellent example!!

Thank you for this build thread!!

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On 11/12/2017 at 2:59 PM, BDWC said:

I am super impressed with how far you have come with this !!! You truly have set the bar for Rubies conversions.

I also, am curious if this will pass for Centurion, as I was told "no" on mine during my EIB application, but then I have not done near as much as you have.

 

{However, the CRL only points out the power cylinders and the d-rings as requirements for ANH blasters at the EIB level (which passed), but for Centurion the only remark is that Hasbro blasters are not allowed.....so who knows?}

 

Personally I MUCH prefer your final product to any of the Hyperfirm or Protarian molded blasters. The filled in scope rails especially bother me, plus you have a real cut-out for your spring and charging handle!!!

 

Again, GREAT JOB, and I will be following this thread for a while, not only to find out about the Centurion question, but because I have an extra Rubies that I am going to convert following you excellent example!!

Thank you for this build thread!!

Thank you very much for your compliments, Jim.

Sorry I haven't been able to get back to you soon enough, really busy this days.

I am more that flattered that some of you guys think this conversion deserves applying for centurion level no less! Thanks a lot for that. Honestly I don't even know if you can't apply a weapon alone, but I'm afraid you have to do it with your armor... and my anovos kit will still take a while to be taken care of. I will try to cross that bridge once we get there. ;)

Anyway, this conversion has much of what is supposed to be in an e-11 blaster, as any hasbro with a good old doopy kit would have, but this, imho has the advantage of a better profile and better shape in general, being the he main issue with this the smaller size and how close are the things in the middle section among them.

Definitely it worth the effort and who knows... one day it might become centurion.

thanks again!

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15 hours ago, jethroskull said:

Thanks for this, Curro. I just bought a Rubie's for a fun side project and while I'm not getting anywhere near this detailed, your work has already answered several questions for me.

Thank you all for reading and your feedback, JC.

Glad to read this is helping others to start projects like this. If i can be of any further assistance, just let me know. Good luck on your rubies job!

cheers.

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  • 2 months later...

Hello again.

Well well well. This post has turned the unexpected milestone of 4K+ views! That's AMAZING for me! Never thought it would get so much attention BIG THANKS to you all. I'm flattered beyond limits.

To celebrate it, I've gathered myself and decided to take it a little farther, the last step... so I've built a 3d printed stand, ordered a nice plaque and done the numbers on the henglster counter. Come and see!

Finally I managed to tame the technique for the methacrylate glass. I was doing it all wrong all the previous times. I used too much force on such a delicate material. This is to be done gently and slowly. I cut a stripe twice the length needed to cover the numbers from a methacrylate sheet I already had. The reason to make it so long to give me room to hold the piece on both sides and have some extra glass done just in case something happens. For this I used a hobby saw and went slowly. Then, I roughly rounded the long side corners on one just one side of the piece, using a big file with minimal grain, those used to soften metal edges, and worked like charm...

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Then I spent some good couple of hours dry and wet sanding the thing with 500 sandpaper to smooth it to my limit. After that, half an hour more of elbow grease with "krafft scratch remover polish cream" until I got it transparent again.

IMG_5782.thumb.JPG.0e7794ccb818e8343cb2505aaf7567ef.JPG

In the picture you can see that some nasty cracks occurred inside the plastic at some time during the process. Happily, having a long piece saved the day, allowing me to spare the flawed end. I've chosen this particular pic despite the general blur cause you can see clear the background through the piece... nice!

After the piece was done, I carved just a little the slot on the hengstler to make it more regular to accommodate the numbers and my new glass.

As for the number, I googled images and came up with a site with one I liked. You can track it here:

http://www.501st.com.mx/foros/viewtopic.php?t=6198

Then I colour-printed a few different sizes of them in a glossy paper and see which one fits best to my liking.

Then just mounted all properly. To fix the glass cover I made, I used Humbrol Clearfix glue. This was recommended on my regular hobby shop. It's an ultra clear glue, cures slowly and is not as a strong as CA glue, but doesn't lose any nasty vapours or fumes and doesn't fog or blur transparent surfaces. I've been told this stuff is what's used to glue cockpit on plane models and things like that.

And here it is! Now I have numbers on my blaster!

IMG_5914.JPG

 

Just as PS, I've also printed a 3D stand from thingiverse so I can rest properly the blaster until my armor is done (sometimes in a near future I hope!). It's my first 3d printed project. I printed it directly with no scaling involve, and had to mod it afterwards to fit my gun. Here is a link to the files:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2741481

I've also ordered a nice plaque from Rich at PLAQUES4PROPS for my bigger blaster, a DD, but in the meantime will be displayed next to my rubies... Rich is a nice fellow, very communicative and his work is awesome, despite the fact I found him on a rebel scum forum . If someone is interested, you can see his work and contact him trough his Facebook site:

http://facebook.com/plaques4props

 

IMG_5622.JPG

 

Thank you all for your interest. Now I can call this really done.

 

 

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