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Rubies E11 mod


artimorty

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It did very much so! Thanks!

Since my drawer pull was brass, I cut the slot before glueing it on, so the plastic wouldn't get damaged from the heat. Worked like a charm!

Unless you have any last minute ideas, I'm going to call mine done. I've pretty much did everything you've done, and looking at reference pics online, I really can't see anything else to do! I've just begun spraying the insides and out with black. There's some parts I need to add after the two halves are glued back together, and the seam filled and sanded. 

This really has been fun, and I've YOU to thank!

Thank you Artimorty!

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It did very much so! Thanks!

Since my drawer pull was brass, I cut the slot before glueing it on, so the plastic wouldn't get damaged from the heat. Worked like a charm!

Unless you have any last minute ideas, I'm going to call mine done. I've pretty much did everything you've done, and looking at reference pics online, I really can't see anything else to do! I've just begun spraying the insides and out with black. There's some parts I need to add after the two halves are glued back together, and the seam filled and sanded.

This really has been fun, and I've YOU to thank!

Thank you Artimorty!

My pleasure Mark! This is a both direction thing, you've provided best feedback to improve my build, and so you're also to be credited and thanked.

In fact I'm up to some new ideas, small details... adding some letters on the blaster. For this, I first carved small trenches with a dremel mill bit, where the letters should go. Then covered those holes with milliput and flattened. When still fresh, pressed over it with punch letters:

The A-R-S on the selector switch

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I know I've placed them a little too low in the switch, but I had the whim to see the three letters

 

The inverted OFF sign on the clip:

724d2a963802c37caf352e779e02ea62.jpg

I still have to sand down a little this letters and figure out how to complete the arrow.

I'm also using milliput to fill the trench below the scope rail on the rear part, cause it would be seen from down outside in the spring. And for the gap in the bottom of the inner scope.

Still sanding outside, have yet to glue the power cilinders and the trident plug and once glued both halves together, hide the seams, put the D ring and the front sight... then paint at last! buffff... still so much to do!

Cheers.

 

 

 

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I hear ya on still so much to do!

For the OFF and the A R S, I first drew them on with a pencil, and using an incredibly tiny engraving bit with my Dremel, carefully carved them out. I think it worked ok, I used a needle file on the letters afterwards to clean them up.

Yours came out fantastic!!!

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Hello again.

Some progress done in the last few days... this is definitely evolving into something better and I can reach the end of this build with the tips of my fingers... I've gone ahead and decided that finally was time to close both halves. First added the hex screw at the bottom of the handle. Made a hole the right size in the middle and secured the screw in place on one half with modeling putty

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Then I glued all the interior pieces already build, glued and secured with a screw the bolt handle and the selector switch, placed the spring, sprayed all the inside and around the barrel holes in black and, at last, glued the 3D printed pieces...

a05ccf06d3a6da564fbb7bcec1f1edc5.jpg

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This is starting to look more a serious blaster and less a toy gun!

Let's see if tonight or tomorrow I can glue both parts together with a strong epoxy glue.

Still a lot to do... but already crossed the half way through.

Thanks for reading.

 

 

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Hi all... at last after this updating process!

let see if I can manage around here under this new skin... apologies on advance for the more than probably mistakes that it will take to get used to this.

I wanna share with you my latest improvement on this build. I've gone for the D ring.

i wanted mine to be able to turn upside down. For this I cut a plastic tube section to size and made a cut all along it, inserting the ring inside. Then glued two small sections embracing the plastic tube across the cut. Taking special care to avoid any glue inside the cut or in contact with the ring.

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This two small pieces were then carefully glued to a plastic disc I had already made.

 

Edited by artimorty
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52B49DBE-0140-4AF9-9C01-64D9A9C9E9C0_zps

Ok. Apparently I can still post indirectly copying the URL...

let's see how this work... here I glued the ring to the plastic plate. Then covered the tube with milliput (those guys should endorse this build!), waited it to dry and used files and sand paper to get the right shape. Then glued the piece in position.

6A5986BE-126A-4695-BD63-D237B3303329_zps

And here it is done. The ring moves upside down. Happy with it.

thanks for watching!

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  • 2 weeks later...

FANTASTIC job!!!
Mine's just about done.. I have to attach the cords. In the meantime, I'm making a sort of "light box" display stand. I just need to get some plexiglass and rope lights to put into it.
I want to thank you so VERY much Artimorty! Had I not run across this thread, I'd have probably just followed HappyTrooper on YouTube. Not saying his is bad, you just took the customization, and ran with it!

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On 30/6/2017 at 11:14 PM, TKFilms7770 said:

I have a Rubies that I'll be "upgrading". Not sure I'll be as detailed with the conversion, but it's been great following this thread. Thanks for posting. 

Hi Marc.

Sorry it took me so long to answer you. I definitely recommend ANY Rubies conversion. The plastic is very easy to work with and with very little effort you can get a great improvement. Mine has become an obsession but you can find around here many threads that with a lot less modding get to a great looking pieces. Probably if I had to start all again I'd do some things differently or even easier.

good luck on your mod and if there is anything I can help you out just let me know. I'm here also to learn from all of you.

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On 9/7/2017 at 5:32 PM, BULL65 said:

FANTASTIC job!!!
Mine's just about done.. I have to attach the cords. In the meantime, I'm making a sort of "light box" display stand. I just need to get some plexiglass and rope lights to put into it.
I want to thank you so VERY much Artimorty! Had I not run across this thread, I'd have probably just followed HappyTrooper on YouTube. Not saying his is bad, you just took the customization, and ran with it!

Hi again Mark, congratulations on your progress, I knew you would pass me over! ;)

I still have some things left to do and then will be good to go for painting. This blaster will be displayed on a mannequin when I can have the time to put together the tk armor..., but please, share here any display set you've got in mind... I'd LOVE to see your build when finished, if you don't mind posting here some pics... will be great!

I'm thinking I will call this particular blaster version the "e-11s" where the "s" stands for "short". And in the MOEU SW (My Own Expanded Universe) will be a shorter version of the popular blaster to be used in closed corridors and inside space structures where agility is preferred to range... same terrible accuracy, horrible targeting, less range but easier to use inside a star destroyer or a space station... what do you think? ;)

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Well. Been very busy last couple of weeks working hard tiding up my workshop space with new shelves and boxes and the lot... the family moved to a new house early this year and my wife was getting anxious about the way my "man cave area" was starting to look, (really a mess close enough to a mining dumping area) so I've been somehow "compelled" to delay the building and combine it with house working and getting things tide up in order to smooth the tempers...

With the little time I've had left I've built the end cap clip. First I scaled and traced on paper the shape of the inside T piece. Stickglued that to sintra piece covered with masking tape. Cut it out on the bend saw, sanded the edges and inserted the heads of to small nails in their position. Then added a thin layer of milliput on the upper end and when still fresh rolled over a wet rounded tool to leave the impressions...

for the other piece, I used a "U" shaped aluminum bar I got from a general hardware store. Cut a section, reduced the heights on both laterals, drilled one hole on each side, glued the T piece inside and inserted the remains of the foretell beheaded nails on each hole.

Here is how it looks waiting to be glued to the blaster.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello again.
It's been a while since my last report on progress. It's not that I've done as much as wanted but neither that I've become lazy... I simply couldn't find the right time to post...
I'm now very close to end the building phase and want to share with you some new pictures of the actual status of the piece.
Since last connection I've finished the rear sight, carving dented edges on both halves in the back with a hobby saw and then a minifile. I also made two rounded pieces out of sintra to be placed inside.
88edee4908c1902e5cc1d0eb06527224.png
Then I went for the front sight again, and decided to change the general shape of it to make both pieces wider. I'm having problems again with the milliput and it's taking much longer to cure than expected... when fully cured I'll clean the area more.3a92a50af7ba5d072ebe65587e95db2d.png
Finally, I wanted to make the bottom of the folding stock more rounded. For this I started gluing some sintra leftovers in place...
646704daa51c81217a9d3482ecf9530b.png
Then, roughly covered all with blue stuff bondo...
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And worked the area with raspers and files while still workable but not yet cured to get the proper shape. Any minor flaw will be corrected later with glazing putty.
b46bd00e2c1764518cf37596d82a4103.png
And that's all for now. My list of building tasks to do next is to get "something" for the front of the folding stock to simulate some mechanism, to add the proper sight in the front and to complete the front part of the scope, with screws and that... then I could call this done.
Thanks for reading!


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