Parquette[TK] Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 (edited) ****UPDATE! 12/08/2020**** Note: This Update is the full tutorial on the major things that need to be done so that it can truly become an approvable R1TK Bucket. Alright to start off, the bucket is sculpted really well and once held up to a screen grab, is nearly identical. However, obviously Hasbro took some liberties/changed some things around that will be modded/or will have to be left alone. One of the most noticeable things is that the cheeks of the faceplate are a little wider, thus resulting in the rest of the sides of the helmet being wider. However, this can't be helped much without taking extensive measures. DISCLAIMER: While this mod is mine, some images of my PROCESS have been lost to the sands of time (or data in this case). So I'll be utilizing some pictures of the original BS helmet, with crappy circles and arrows I drew to highlight the parts I'm talking about. So let's get started. List of materials needed for the following mods: -Bondo Filler. -Vacuum Line from the Auto Store. -E6000. -Loctite Superglue: Gel, and Liquid versions (optional) -2 Part Epoxy -Trooperbay Brow and Neck-hole Trim -Screen Door Plastic Mesh Patch -Your choice of polishing compound (optional) -Dremel Tool with assorted grinding bits. -Sanding paper: Grits 120, 150, 220, 1000, 15000. (last 2 grits are for polishing. Optional) -Styrene Plastic (For Sale Signs, Parking Signs, etc...) -Rustoleum Ultra 2x White Gloss, Rustoleum 2x Blue spray paints. -Patience... Highly Reccomended items: -Respirator (for breathing when using Bondo) -Pocket Knife (for prying) -Latex Gloves (for superglue contact on your finger) *****Black Series R1TK Helmet modifications***** 1. Gutting of the interior. Gut out the interior in the back half of the helmet. This restricts head room (or is unwearable for us big headed folk), and looks bad from the bottom. For any remaining plugs or screw posts for this section, completely grind down. This one is pretty self explanatory: Just use your DREMEL cutting and sanding wheels and grind down until flush, then sand smooth. Side note: I highly recommend taking the back half of the helmet out to gut before putting the helmet together, because once it's in the helmet, it's not that easy to cut, and the helmet is a little difficult to separate. 2. Trim removal. The next step was taking out the neck trim on the BACK HALF of the helmet. It just didn't line up with the trim in the front, so toss that. You just use a pocket-knife or something to pry it into the underside, then tear it off. It shouldn't rip, and should peel nicely. Luckily, this isn't molded into the plastic like the front neck hole section is, so it's easier to do. 3. Filling in the speaker and battery compartment. The best way (and the way I recommend) would be to use Bondo, Milliput, or Plumbers Putty. Either way, you take your paste of choice and push it hard into the speaker. Then take a flat, flexible object (like a squeegee) and scrape the excess off. Let it sit... Finally you'll whip up some 2 part Epoxy to glaze over it, then once it cures, sand until smooth (or flush). 4. Bonding. Time to bond the ALL 3 SECTIONS of the helmet together. Use either your 2 part Epoxy or E6000 to place in all the seams. DO NOT allow any squeeze out. Press the parts all together, and let it cure with tape or a brace around it to keep constant pressure. 5. Vocoder, brow and neck trim STRIP. Now it's time to replicate one of the most noticeable features on this TK helmet: The vocoder tubes. Begin by prying the layer of rubber off of the vocoder section, which I pried off with a sharp pocket knife. Treat the knife as if it was a crowbar: Once it's under the surface, rock it back and forth, gradually pushing the knife in further, and LIFT. Any chips or notches your knife may make can easily be filled in with Bondo. Just take your time: with patience you will be greatly rewarded. Be sure to check your health condition at this point, because your vocoder will look as hideous as in the picture below, and you could have a heart attack. While your at it, tear off the rubber for the front half of the helmet too. Should look like below once sanded. The brow is the same story. Speaking of which... 6. Bondo filler between skull cap and face. Alright, so this one's a doozie, so just bare with me... The brow of the helmet must be LOWERED DOWN, as you can see it's way too high to be SA. Compared to OS... But you tore off the OLD ONE... What do you do? Well as you can see, there's a noticeable gap between your CAP and FACE sections. Now, assuming you did your bonding job right, it won't be too big a gap. So you're going to need to fill that part in with Bondo first, then 2 part Epoxy to top it off. Take your time, sanding in-between layers. Build up until the cap edge is perfectly flush. Below is from when the helmet is already painted, but it shows what it SHOULD look like. 7. Sanding time. Go ahead and sand all of the surfaces where the rubber was. Use low grit 120 and work up to 220. 8. More work on the Vocoder. In order to create that gap on the bottom between the 3 middle tubes and the 2 tubes on the edges, grab your Dremel tool with the cutting bit and chop off the bottom section of the plastic vocoder. Then, apply some STYRENE plastic in place with some SUPER-GLUE, then Epoxy all around the edges. Then you'll apply Epoxy on the OUTSIDE as well to get rid of any gaps. Sand smooth. 9. Vocoder tubes. Originally I went to the Auto store and bought a vacuum line hose, but it turned out too shiny, stiff, and formed kinks at the sharp angles. I went into my garage and found an older one, that was more dull and flexible, thus resulting in little to no kinks and the proper matte look of the screen used bucket. Drill out the holes the tubes will go in. Put each one of these holes at the top and bottom of the vocoder ridges. NOT ABOVE OR BELOW. Directly on the ends... I took the hosing and wrapped it in and out of the holes, to see how it'll go. Once you have a feel for it, take out the tubes. THIS IS ONLY FOR A TEST FIT! DO NOT GLUE THE TUBES IN PLACE! 10. Jaw Extension Take some styrene plastic scraps, and glue it to the interior of the helmet's neck hole. Do this all along the inside, have half of the pieces stick out. Make sure they are wide pieces too. Sometimes you'll need to glue another piece on top of some to make it stronger. Use superglue for this, then fill in with Epoxy or Bondo. Sand smooth. 11. Assymetry to the left eye. In the screen used Rogue One helmets, a subtle yet key feature leftover from the OT helmet is visible: the bump on the left eye. Look closely You can see how the right eye in the below pic is animated to show how the left isn't the same. Here you can just build it up with bondo. Make sure it protrudes forward, and raises subtley (if that's even a word). 12. Hollow out the slots. I don't have pics for this, but drill out holes in each slot. Then, cut out the slots with the Dremel, using an etching bit. After this, file the stripes smooth with various files (or if you don't have these, use folded sandpaper to get right-angle grinds). 13. Time for paint. PAINT THE HELMET! Mask off the grey sections carefully, and paint the entire helmet with Rustoleum 2X Ultra Coat Gloss white paint. Make sure they're even coats, and make sure they're not too thick. Or you can have a local auto-body shop do it, like I did. 14. Reweave the vocoder tubes. Like the title says, reweave the vocoder through the holes. Once this is done, cut each of the extra tubing on the inside, leaving the vocoder tubes on the outside. Then E6000 them in place from the inside, so they'll stay there forever. 15. Neck hole rubber trim. Use a PRESSURE COOKER rubber edge seal you can find from Ace Hardware. Slip this onto the edge of the neck hole, and glue it in place. 16: Blue backing for tube stripes. Paint some blue styrene plastic a nice blue color. Put this underneath the hollowed out tube stripes and glue it with e6000. Be very light, you don't want any of the glue visible in the exterior of the tube stripes, nor the e6000 actually melting the thin styrene. Believe me, I've run into this problem from going heavy on it. Just make sure you glue in areas that won't be seen. I'd recommend doing it at the top, bottom, and very edges of the strip. Now, what I did was looked back at the infamous interview with the costume designer Glyn Dillon. He said (and I paraphrase a little), "we actually designed those [tube stripes] to be working vents." But for the life of me, couldn't find any gaps to confirm there's room for air to get in. But nothing stopped me from improvising. Those 2 steps you'll find are on the BOTTOM side of the tube stripes. Those will act as "shims" to create a non-visible gap, thereby allowing the most MINUTE of air space. It barely does anything, just figured I'd say "yeah, it's a vent" and let it sit at that. I painted them an ocean blue (which I think may have been a smidge too dark), and proceeded to use E6000 to glue them to the underside, using painters tap to keep constant pressure. In the above pic you can see the piece is actually pretty close to the surface. However, in the below pic you'll find that on the BOTTOM SIDE of the blue piece that there's a visible gap. To the naked eye, this isn't apparent, but it fulfills the necessity for some gap in there to technically make it a vent... 17: Rubber brow replication. Grab your brow you ordered from 'trooperbay.com' and carefully glue it in place. I would recommend you do this with frog-masking tape and e6000. Squirt glue first (not in globs) on the base, spread it thinly/evenly, then slowly and methodically tape your brow to the glued region. There are a few different levels of brow in the film: Angry frown, neutral frown, there are tons of ref images of how the screen used helmets looked. Trim to the desired length. Place the brow much lower than the original, almost at it's edge. But towards each end it should slowly meet the original brow base again. 18. New Mic tips! Thanks UKSWrath for my new Mic Tips! Have them painted black on the inside (like the screen used ones), and they'll be perfect. That's what I requested from Tony, and he delivered. Just drill a hole in the center of the appropriate sections and screw the new ones in. 19. Teeth Mesh The original helmets contained a criss-cross BLACK SCREEN Material that is seen between the individual teeth. So we're going to utilize some good old fashioned PLASTIC SCREEN PATCHES from the hardware store. These are typically used for repair work on screen doors. There are tons of builds on here that show various ways to do this, so it's pretty self-explanatory: Cut to shape, find best way to place it, then glue. 20: Polishing. Wetsand with 1000 - 15000 sandpaper, anywhere it's white. Then grab your polishing compound (mine is Mcguires) and apply it in small sections all over the white parts of the helmet, one section at a time. Then with a rough towel, rub it really hard into the surface. Wait a few seconds, then grab a smooth cloth and polish away. Put a lot of elbow grease into it! The more pressure, the more reflection. 21: FINISHED!!! And there you have it! My Black Series mod. I'm still finishing mine, so the below pictures will not be complete. But I hope this helps! A last and final note is that this is how to make your BS Bucket APPROVABLE, not be 100% screen accurate. For instance more work is required for the gray rear trapezoids and cheek details to make them perfect, and currently I don't have a proper write up for that. However if I find the time I will be sure to update if that's the case! Edited December 14, 2020 by Parquette 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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