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Bryn's E-11 Doopy Build - Better late than never.

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  • End cap clip, M38 Scope and Hengstler – Update 5

Hi there, it’s been quite a while since I posted any updates and I have a few to share!

 

End cap clip

 

First the end cap clip, you can see here that I used Chris’s (themaninthesuitcase) printed part. For the spring I used one of my of my trusty collar stays cut down, bent it and super glued it down. I will probably revisit this and put some small grub screws in for some extra hold.

 

Cy23sBZl.jpg

 

TebFEbml.jpg

 

SD5fIPbl.jpg

 

Added the grub screws tonight.. I didn't have any countersunk ones so had to add a countersink to the spring.

 

iKRfBYBl.jpg

 

 

M38 Scope

 

Next was the scope mod, I pretty much followed Chris’s (thrawns guard) mod here, the only bit of innovation was to sticky tape the prisms together to help with fitting. Oh and I didn’t use the drill as much on this, I got a couple of new bits for my dremel a 117 and 134 (high speed cutters) the 134 is nice and wide.

 

 

TVgsEoFl.jpg

 

As you can see below I needed to rebuild the wall up a little with some green stuff..

 

1Ubdi8dl.jpg

 

zifUj5Bl.jpg

 

fFVIKbml.jpg

 

KMIDaaRl.jpg

 

F6F4aLal.jpg

 

3FZjPWnl.jpg

 

You can see below that I have fitted a laser print of Chris’s cross hairs, this is glued in with PVA as per Chris’s recommendations (thanks Chris!).

 

I went for the more futuristic looking one.

 

P.S if you need the files I have them in word doc format already re-sized.

 

pd2tb1pl.jpg

 

Looking through the front.

 

i04uDgYl.jpg

 

Before painting.

 

fRlVmDml.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the small end glued back to the main barrel, I still need to drill out a hole that I filled at the top. Hope I don’t get too much dry green stuff inside…

 

CE5INSel.jpg

 

Anyway this part of the scope build is on hold un till my antique brass paint arrives, Bunnings had everyone except the one I needed!

 

Hengstler

 

So because I decided to go with the resin scope because the real one I have might be too heavy for the doopy resin barrel I decided to mod the doopy resin Hengstler.

 

I already had a replica counter from bluesnaggletooth all I needed was to look at sorting out the front piece with connectors.

 

I saw that Chris (themaninthesuitcase) had found an authentic connector box, so I went and had a look on the AU RS Components site and they had some in stock.

 

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/counter-hour-meter-accessories/0165813/

 

So the rest is pretty standard, oh I did carve out the rungs on the bottom instead of gluing on the styrene.

 

miEmIDLl.jpg

 

bCVY1ABl.jpg

 

wLnujFxl.jpg

 

ckm48zTl.jpg

 

Okay that’s it… Just the mag and ejector and flash guards to go really. Then I can start gluing it all together.

 

One question I do have for those who have already done a build, what glue to you use?

 

2 part epoxy or E6000?

 

Thnx all and l8tr!

Edited by sla73
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When positioning the end cap clip it should only be engaged when the cap is fully pressed in. So if the cap is held out under the spring pressure (which is totally doable with the wire in the T-Jay kit as mine is) you have about a 2-3mm ish gap between the end of the clip and the cap.

 

This threw me so mines actually in the wrong place.

 

Ninja edit to add reference image:

image-3_zpsezekbqyw.jpeg

 

Looks like you've done a FAR better job of all your drilling than me too! Did you use a drill press?

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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Hi Chris,

No I made the holes by hand (drill bit in my hands, the resin is quite soft), I did the first one in middle top by placing the part on top and marking it through the hole, the others were by eye..

 

Thanks for the tip re end cap clip..

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Hi Bryn.

 

Nice work on the Hengstler. The scope is also looking great so far and I do like the look of the reticle.

 

With regard to the query about the glue personally I would go for the E6000 for the following reasons: -

 

1) No mixing required.

2) The bond is immediately strong enough to hold most items in place though I would still add an elastic band or similar to hold parts whilst the glue sets.

3) Despite a good immediate hold it is still possible to move the glued parts or remove them if required for a fair amount of time.

 

Keep up the great work and i look forward to seeing your future updates.

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Hi Bryn.

 

Nice work on the Hengstler. The scope is also looking great so far and I do like the look of the reticle.

 

With regard to the query about the glue personally I would go for the E6000 for the following reasons: -

 

1) No mixing required.

2) The bond is immediately strong enough to hold most items in place though I would still add an elastic band or similar to hold parts whilst the glue sets.

3) Despite a good immediate hold it is still possible to move the glued parts or remove them if required for a fair amount of time.

 

Keep up the great work and i look forward to seeing your future updates.

 

Thanks Chris.

 

I hope to paint the Hengstler this week end.. stay tuned :)

 

Cheers

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Update – Hengstler Counter

 

Well the Hengstler is completed! My first fully painted piece. One thing I have learned during the painting process is that I am a very impatient painter, I created a couple of dribbles that needed to be sanded back and resprayed..

 

xoQwBlQl.jpg

 

Here are some shots, on its own and next to one of Bluesnaggletooths replicas.. P.S. mine is the one on the right in the doubles shots..

 

nccbZbtl.jpg

 

k9hyXiHl.jpg

 

3RQr2Uql.jpg

 

4DOTSStl.jpg

 

3jOTi2Nl.jpg

 

3xFLEE0l.jpg

 

Next is the scope.. here is a teaser pic.

 

NQmv0oql.jpg

Edited by sla73

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• Update Painted Scope.

 

Okay here are the final shots of the finished (bar a bit of white crayon in the markings at the end) scope.

First a few shots of the scope before the final black coats, here I used rustoleum antique bronze.

 

1tgYnlml.jpg

 

WHlq2Fml.jpg

 

fLQmBnVl.jpg

 

cZWdz9Il.jpg

 

So here are the pic’s after painting with most of the weathering done, now I painted the scope with a Dulux Satin Black enamel.

 

Outside shot (sorry for the crap pics, not very good at lighting etc..)

 

TsdOryDl.jpg

 

nrjGnK6l.jpg

 

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Theses are the best shots.

 

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Bad lighting again.. looks washed out..

 

fplIm5al.jpg

 

9bvxbmdl.jpg

 

GSxclBel.jpg

 

KyCGVJol.jpg

 

I weathered it with 600 and 800 grit sandpaper and polished it up with a Seacret Buffing block I stole from my wife.

 

tumblr_ma2h6xwvhX1qkiwkwo1_500.jpg

 

The look came out quite close to the real scope that I have, I picked the resin one up a couple of times a wondered why it was so light.

One last thing, when I was weathering I rubbed through the black and then Bronze on my first attempts, this was on a couple of raised areas – got the sharpie out to hide the resin, not sure why perhaps I needed a few more coats of bronze.

 

Cheers for now.

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The scope looks brilliant. Amazing paint job and weathering. I found that the black paint didn't quite take to the bronze undercoat I applied on my scope causing both color layers to strip off easily. I read somewhere that metallic paints can be difficult to use as an undercoat . No worries, I can't tell at all where any sharpie cover ups were made. <br>

Super work!

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Thanks Brian,

To be honest I sort of fluked it with final finish and using the buffing block, i only used the buffing block when the sandpaper was too hash. I then saw how the scope was coming out and thought.. keep going!

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Very impressive work on the scope and counter. I really like how both parts look.

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Very impressive work on the scope and counter. I really like how both parts look.

 

Thanks T-Jay,

I must say that there is are lots of really good builds in all of the threads, I only started looking at the ESB E-11 builds the other day.. There are some pretty high standards all around, to work towards!

 

I have a few questions for the brains trust:

  1. I am thinking about gluing the grip on before painting, is there a best approach here? Should I wait, paint the grip and the glue it on..?
  2. Re the magazine, I have one from Gazmosis. What's the general feeling with taking most of the resin out of the housing versus cutting and sanding the magazine  back?

Cheers all and thanks is advance..

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  • More updates – Flash and ejector port guards and some other stuff

 

Hi again, I have a few minor updates today.

 

I worked on the Flash and ejector port guards, I was considering some of Chris’s done on shapeways but the shipping was too high for the one print. So I decided to get the file out and shape the resin ones that came with the kit.

 

Once shaped I drilled holed in the barrel and guards put in a pin I mad out of a safety pin and super glued them in.

 

rRVv3Izl.jpg

 

ReqWTKbl.jpg

 

RMccaBll.jpg

 

IRKCKskl.jpg

 

8a6HAPPl.jpg

 

The rest are a few pic’s of the gluing of the end cap clip (bracket) and the rear sight.

 

I cut a bit of a recess into the barrel for the end cap clip (bracket)  

 

x5km1w1l.jpg

 

XvWwKRJl.jpg

 

I cleaned up a bit and put in some green stuff.

 

t5OVJWbl.jpg

 

viymOEVl.jpg

 

bNWjeBml.jpg?1

 

Okay that’s it for now folks..

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Thanks T-Jay,

I must say that there is are lots of really good builds in all of the threads, I only started looking at the ESB E-11 builds the other day.. There are some pretty high standards all around, to work towards!

 

I have a few questions for the brains trust:

  1. I am thinking about gluing the grip on before painting, is there a best approach here? Should I wait, paint the grip and the glue it on..?
  2. Re the magazine, I have one from Gazmosis. What's the general feeling with taking most of the resin out of the housing versus cutting and sanding the magazine  back?

Cheers all and thanks is advance..

 

Bryn, attaching the grip to the receiver before or after painting depends on how you plan to add the colors:

- Leaving the grip separate, minimizes your covering effort and avoids any gloss black spray paint on the rest of your blaster (except the trigger group - if that is uncovered).

- On the other hand, a mounted grip is okay if you start your paintwork with that gloss black, then cover the grip after it dried and continue to paint the rest of the blaster.

There is no perfect way to do it. You will have to prepare areas before painting, so I suggest to ask yourself how to keep your effort the lowest.

 

The magazine from Steve (gazmosis) is a very nice cast and yes, it is possible to hollow the housing/mag well instead of cutting the magazine. Just be aware: To make it fit into your housing, the outer walls need to be thin. Very thin!

We are talking about serious hollowing work, leaving you end up with resin walls of about 1.5 or 1.0 mm to receive this magazine. Consider this when thinking about the purpose for your blaster (trooping or display)...

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Bryn, attaching the grip to the receiver before or after painting depends on how you plan to add the colors:

- Leaving the grip separate, minimizes your covering effort and avoids any gloss black spray paint on the rest of your blaster (except the trigger group - if that is uncovered).

- On the other hand, a mounted grip is okay if you start your paintwork with that gloss black, then cover the grip after it dried and continue to paint the rest of the blaster.

There is no perfect way to do it. You will have to prepare areas before painting, so I suggest to ask yourself how to keep your effort the lowest.

 

The magazine from Steve (gazmosis) is a very nice cast and yes, it is possible to hollow the housing/mag well instead of cutting the magazine. Just be aware: To make it fit into your housing, the outer walls need to be thin. Very thin!

We are talking about serious hollowing work, leaving you end up with resin walls of about 1.5 or 1.0 mm to receive this magazine. Consider this when thinking about the purpose for your blaster (trooping or display)...

 

Thanks Tino,

 

I will have a think about these points...

 

Cheers Bryn

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Update # - Magazine housing and magazine.

 

Okay it’s been a while, I’ve been angst-ing about this bit, partly because I live in a 3 bed unit and don’t have any space and there is a lot of resin to dremel out and also because I just wasn’t sure how to approach this.

 

Anyway I thought stuff it, I will make the magazine fit as it is. I soon realised that I really need to cut the magazine down a bit.

 

The walls were just getting to thin for my liking - like T-Jay said they need to be very thin. Anyways here are some pics with what I ended up with..

 

4gz927dl.jpg

 

RY6SwyXl.jpg

 

jLPBPlpl.jpg

 

EjhTDyul.jpg

 

mO15DKbl.jpg

 

VgwGUpOl.jpg

 

P.S. Still to-do - I plan to put in some magnets to keep the magazine in.

 

Cheers all..

Edited by sla73
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Hi again, a quick update of how I put rare earth magnets in! I used 12 mm magnets 2 in the magazine and 3 three in the housing.

 

For the magazine I drilled a hole in the base and used some Z-poxy (5 min) and for the housing I dremeled out a space from the barrel side and again glued in with Z-poxy (5 min)..

 

I still need to sand the magazine down before painting but that’s it.

 

jPbvZfal.jpg

 

D1DMKLel.jpg

 

hBjuvGEl.jpg

 

59sk2J1l.jpg

 

5 magnets in total seem to hold fine!

 

Cheers All.

Edited by sla73
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Great work, Bryn - with hollowing and the magnets. 5 seems to be the number to go for. Worked on mine, too :)

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Hi Again,

I got all inspired after reading T-Jays latest post on power cylinders, so I decided to finish off mine.. So after a I bit more sanding and a few more coats of paint and here is the outcome..

 

HsVcGfcl.jpg

 

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ODBkSB7l.jpg

 

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iXrNpJBl.jpg

 

prE7gsUl.jpg

 

 

So good news, Chris’s (the maninthesuitcase) 3D parts can come up really nicely..

 

Cheers for now..

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Great work, Bryn - with hollowing and the magnets. 5 seems to be the number to go for. Worked on mine, too :)

 

Thanks Tino! It was a bit nerve racking working on the hollowing out of the housing ..

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Your power cylinders look great, Bryn.

Did you get the surface THAT smooth only by sanding and adding multiple layers of paint? Nothing else? If so, I might redo mine once I get time...

 

(...)

ljKUCuml.jpg

(...)

 

Especially the rear section looks very good. Used real resistors? How did you shrink the red wire insulation to such a nice size?

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On my 3D printer flash guards mine are as smooth as the resin just from sanding and paint so it's perfectly doable you just need to put more effort in than the resin ones.

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Your power cylinders look great, Bryn.

Did you get the surface THAT smooth only by sanding and adding multiple layers of paint? Nothing else? If so, I might redo mine once I get time...

 

 

Especially the rear section looks very good. Used real resistors? How did you shrink the red wire insulation to such a nice size?

 

Hi Tino,

 

Cheers mate :).

 

Yes pretty much multiple (2+) layers of paint and light sanding with 800 grit paper and hit it with my buffing block to help smooth it out and another coat of paint..  I also started off with a coat of Mr.Surfacer 1000, to fill it in a bit..

 

 

For the resistors I pretty much followed the same process you did, bits of plastic from a model kit cut to length and bits of wires stuck in the ends..

 

Q. How did you shrink the red wire insulation to such a nice size.

A. I just squashed them in and added a bit if glue and more paint.

 

P.S. you can see some other pic's earlier in this build thread..

 

Cheers

Edited by sla73

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The Penultimate Update (I hope) …

 

Hello all, well it has definitely been a while since I have posted an update on my progress, partly because I have been busy at work/ home and also because I wasn’t too sure how wanted the blaster to look.

 

Initially I was planning to do the whole crinkle paint/ chipped look, but it is the middle of winter here in Sydney and we have had some cold days.

 

Anyway I abandoned the crinkle paint as you really need warm weather for it to look the best and I needed to finish the blaster as my ATA amour was about to arrive.

So I settled on a weathered/polished satin black look. The approach was the same for all parts, first good coat of primer, then metallic silver, a few spots painted with humbrol 27004 metallic, then a few coats of satin black.

 

To finish it off, I took to the parts with 600/800 sandpaper and a final buffing with my buffing block.

 

Anyway here are some pics…

 

z72eeFYl.jpg

 

YyHtbMRl.jpg

 

uyx9FOnl.jpg

 

FD0EIdBl.jpg

 

zJ4IDxTl.jpg

 

y239JiBl.jpg

 

NIlBrSWl.jpg

 

fXroRC1l.jpg

 

1ZQ90qdl.jpg

 

NIlBrSWl.jpg

 

cwV4TYWl.jpg

 

So there you have it an almost finished E-11, I just need to work on the scope rail and bolt the Hengstler and Scope on and a few little bits a pieces and I will be done…

 

So I’m think that my blaster is a well-used death star issue blaster.

 

Glamour shots still to come!

 

Cheers Bryn

 

 

P.S. if you would like to see more detail, my gallery for this build is here.. beware i uploaded loads of pictures..

 

http://imgur.com/a/UQ9VB/layout/grid

Edited by sla73
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Glad to see you made some good progress since your last posting.

 

Use the cold winter days to stay inside and make some more :D

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