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Comfys ATA ANH Stunt - First Build!


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the caps are a pain to get off, I know some people have drilled a hole through the pipe under the control panel to prevent that air lock scenario. (I only found that out AFTER I'd glued my control panel on!) That might be an option. Having said that, it would be worth sending a pm to Ukswrath or Sly11 to get their thoughts before you do anything.<br>

With the pop rivets, you might be able to use some long nose pliers to get them off, or you should be able to drill out the middle of them. Just be careful, try the pliers on the inside of your armour first.

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Hi Comfy, could you please tell us the thickness of your end caps. They should be 19mm, (3/4") wide.

Also on the right side of the button plate looks like it has a bit of a lip on it . This could do with a sand to take that kick up off.

 

 

 

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If I could make a small recommendation, Adam, it would be to finish removing the last of the return edges on your butt plate and cod area and give them a really good sanding.  They still looks a bit raised, and will more than likely either chafe the heck out you or wear holes in your under suit.  (They are not required at any level).

If you need some of the 1/4 inch white elastic, just PM me and I'll send you some no charge.  Build is coming along great!

Edited by justjoseph63
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Unfortunately the caps are about a inch each, there was no real info on this on the databank besides that it the total length should be 7.50 inches and the clips are 1 inch 

20151126_1401531_zpstuqi5k3q.jpg

 

but now this and i saw another EIB where they wanted it to be 7 1/4th. whats up with that? sorry if i sound rude just kinda panicing

 

i do plan to fix that button plate i wasnt sure about it until i saw.

 

thanks joseph, your pics from the other thread helped me plan my snap layout. i also plan to do that since while i was trying to fit my thighs to a holding belt something around the cod bit me good. i might do it tonight but i dont know how long i expect to be over with the family. 

Edited by Comfy Turtle
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I have an images of a Thermal Det with the required measurements. I will post it up here for you but can't get to it until tonight.

 

 

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Ok minor work done today due to thanksgiving but honestly i'm surprised i did anything today

 

I tried fixing up the control panel but even after sanding it still had a small gap on one side or another, i think its due to the curve in the center but i have heavy tape down to try and keep the pressure on this time

 

20151127_0138031_zpsrhgiwpec.jpg

 

second i took josephs advice and removed the return edge, except where you see in the pic, after trying all my parts on again i noticed the entire lower cod pokes into me, and hangs off anyway due to my height. i'm wondering if it would be ok to cut where i have marked with penciel

 

20151127_0136481_zpsv59nm1ft.jpg

 

last before i give in to sleep was i tried to redo one of the shins to be closed the proper way for Centurion. i'll do the other tomorrow if all goes well.

 

20151127_0137391_zpstsnduw9z.jpg

 

Please let me know what you think.

 

also is there any kind of guide to this goop? i have it all melted but it seems really light i think i need to add more to make it like a paste? i'm worried i'd try to fill the gaps in my armor and end up making a mess

Edited by Comfy Turtle
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Try this thread for abs paste:<br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2041-howto-make-your-own-abs-repair-paste/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2041-howto-make-your-own-abs-repair-paste/</a><br><br>

Shin looks good! Just check it sticks ok in the middle, maybe another clamp or some magnets will help it to stick if you have any trouble with it.<br><br>

You should be right to trim the cod, but it might be an idea to trim a bit less off it, you can always take more off, but it's a lot harder to put it back! I can sort of see a shadowy ridge in the photo that looks like it might be a mild line, maybe try starting there. I'm not sure what you mean by the cod 'hangs off'?<br><br>

Also, if you are going for centurion, don't forget there should be a split rivet in the cod (if you order the pack from Trooperbay it should come with it).<br><br>

Good work, almost there!

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Ah your right, honestly i keep forgetting about every single thing required for Centurion, i'll do that tomorrow. also didnt know about the front cod rivet and the white elastic for the shoulder straps. i'll do the rivets whenver i get some, trooperbay is still down for me. and for the strings thinest while elastic i have on hand is 1inch, most seem to be 1/4th or 1/8th i guess.

Trooperbay is down for the holiday. He will be back up for Monday.

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a mix of fixes and disasters again. 

 

first off even though i'm so short no one will notice anyway but i knew the right side shoulder strap off off a bit where it slid after gluing, i readjusted it and have a strong clamp to keep it in place this time.

20151127_1554111_zpslnmxipsw.jpg

 

second before i move on my disaster i had a question about the biceps, are they ment to have these shapes?

20151127_1556341_zpskvdiglgq.jpg

I know most people have them both in a style like the left side but the way the other one came its like it was ment to be cut this way, i can try and angle it but i wouldnt be surpised if it turns out wrong.

 

Last the mix of Success and failure

 

I tested the ABS paste i made and it worked great for when it was ment for and got rid of that small split my left thigh had

20151127_1816541_zpseloewwnt.jpg

 

i was going back and forth though the armor patching up the various splits/cuts i messed up on thoughout my build.

20151127_1817311_zpskzy8dchl.jpg

 

hoping to sand and polish these soon.

 

But in my ignorance i thought this stuff could do no wrong and would help with the gap on my control panel, and technically it did. but i was stupid and forgot about the acetone part and was horrifyed by the following image

20151127_1759311_zpsdppdwwof.jpg

 

Is there any possible way to fix this? i'm hoping i can sand it and use Novus polish to try and atleast help the damage.

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Biceps look fine. If they are tightbyou might want to try getting rid of a bitnof that return edge.<br>

I don't have much experience with ABS paste, but I think it dries pretty hard? You should be able to sand it and polish if it does.

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You can remove the return edges on your Biceps and forearms to get a better fit.

Most of the archive images show that the original suits Han no return edges at all.

As o your little issue with the ab plate, yes some medium fine sand paper then fine , then wet n dry, which is exceptionally fine and as it name says, yes you wet it and sand out the scratches. Then Noves 3, and finish with Novus 2, you probably won't need the Novus 1.

 

 

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thanks Scott and Sly for your help. i'm going to give it a good clean later today, i plan on giving the entire set a good polish once its all done as a victory reward.

 

yeah i dont know if there is a guide to or how to handle removing the return edges overall just cut through the entire bit? like just a centimeter or two?

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I used a Dremell with the sanding head on it . First I marked a line with pencil to sand down to rather than take it off entirely . This way if I made a mistake, there was still more I cauldron remove, sort of like a safety net. The only reason we keep any return edges is to give the illusion of thickness to the armor.

 

 

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definitely can do that, i'll report back on it once its done.

 

or this reminds me from what i'm seeing Evilboys clips dont come with the screws

 

is just regular black screws prefered? i dont anything about the sizing

Edited by Comfy Turtle
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This some pics of the screws.<br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22697-screen-accurate-thermal-detonators-run-2/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22697-screen-accurate-thermal-detonators-run-2/</a><br><br>

Black, dome or pan head, slotted (if you can find them), about 5mm (7/32") or thereabouts. I used a little metal thread bolt with a nut on the inside rather than a screw. No real reason, it was just the best match I could find for the head.

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I found them in a marine shop. Actually they were a small nut and bolt, but the correct size and both pan head and slightly domed. They were available in varying lengths and sold individually so I didn't need to buy a box of them.

 

 

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Well after shortening the bolts inside my helmet and trying to sew on some veclro to some make shift webbing to hold up my thighs, my hands are full of cuts

 

its simple right now and i plan to do two more to hold the back side but i hope they'll last atleast though yamacon then i can switch them out with snaps.

20151128_1821331_zpshtloi2ow.jpg

 

Also since my primary helmet was plain as can get outside of being built, i decided to Plasti-Dip the inside and painted the ear screws white, though it wore off a little while screwing them back in, i covered the eyes and teeth so none would get to the outside but i decided to touch it up a little with paint to darken the inside more. its as close as i want to get without risking the front teeth. I also switched the default green screen lens with a darker one to stop people from peeking at me. i have the mesh to cover the teeth but i'm waiting for the paint to dry before dabbing some E6000 on the edges and putting it in.

 

20151128_2036231_zpsvaylgzob.jpg

 

Also if anyone noticed my tear question thread in assembly and painting. my helmets tears came in too small. so i had my sister expand them but she left the black lines too think. naturally without telling her i tryed to fix that up.

 

Right

20151128_2044071_zpsnptc33rr.jpg

 

Left i thinned this out a little after i saw the picture.

20151128_2044221_zpsnhgm67wf.jpg

 

While no pictures yet i started sanding the damged area of the control panel and used Novus 2 and 3. it looks easier on the eyes then before but still going to try some more sanding tomorrow

 

Also i finally ordered a new phone so picture quality should improve, hopfully the LG G4 is good, but anything is better then my Samsung Galaxy

Edited by Comfy Turtle
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Tears look a lot better. I think the one you've labelled as right is pretty good, not sure about the left one, there might be a bit too much paint on there. Overall though, they do look a lot better!<br>

Good work on the control panel, would love to see how it turns out when you are finished with it.<br>

Keep up the good work!

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yeah i decided to touch up on them more after i posted that, i think its still kinda jagged around the edges but pretty good considering my normal art ha

 

only real issue i have left with my helmet is the "thumbprint" that Voorhees says must have happened during shipping. i've tried using mineral spirits but either the paint has sat to long or i need to use more force then i'm comfortable with, since i only want to removed the excess but i'm not able to really remake the marks on my own. i'm trying to see if i can save money by not buying trooperbays decals. though i'm definitely buying his split rivets once his sale starts

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Yep, see what you mean. Not really sure what you can do there to be honest. If you get the specific thinners for the paint that was used, maybe try the dip a cut off matchstick in the thinners and push along the paint? Someone with more paint experience than me might have a suggestion.

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If you are going to use thinners, I would only ever use mineral turpentine on ABS, it is the mildest form and won't melt your armour.

 

 

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not much work today, decided to try on what i have and i decided to work on stablity of the suit.

 

i added hooks to the biceps, i i probly should have made them bigger but i'm worried they'll dig into me

20151129_2250241_zpszla4cqoz.jpg

 

I also noticed just walking back and forth in the room my left shin kept moving to the side, so i tried to copy a velcro trick i saw with one piece on the boot another on the shin, seems solid but also kinda miss the maneuverability

20151129_2251221_zpstwagh1fh.jpg

 

Also after seeing this pic i'm worried about the condition of the boots, that area is covered anyway.

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